kufman

iTrader: (6)

Bearings of any quality should last longer on the Electri-Clutch since the motor is not spinning when the car is stopped. On nitros, any time they are stopped or idling, the bearings in the clutch are spinning at the speed of the engine so these bearings get 100's of miles when the car is stopped. Add the extra miles to the large amount of vibration from the engine itself and from having two metal gears in contact with one another and you have a perfect system for killing bearings.

With the electric, you have a lot less vibration and when the car is stopped, the motor is stopped so you don't get all the extra miles on the clutch bearings.

That being said, there are inherent problems with clutches of this type since they are only supported at one end. Any time that the clutch shoes don't engage at the same time, there will be added stress on those bearings. If one shoe flies out before the other or if the shoes themselves are not the same weight, they will try to push the bell out of alignment. The only thing that keep the alignment straight is those two little bearings. If clutches could somehow be supported at the flywheel end, the stress could be greatly reduced. Anyway, time to go back to work.

teknorc

iTrader: (2)

Hello,

A lot of nitros do in fact have gear mesh issues due to flex. Flex isn't as big of an issue with the use of a clutch bell and bearings because there is a little give or movement at the mesh point that allows for some flex. With the added bracing, we have not stripped a single clutch bell or spur. We have heard of others having success with the plastic gears, but the steel is the most durable and is recommended for racing. Steel on steel is a little noisier, but still more quiet than nitro

As you noted, we are totally committed to 1/8th scale electric and we believe we have the most versatile platform available at this time. We pioneered and have done a ton of testing with the clutch setup and it works great. Clutch bearings eventually wear out, but it's cheap and easy to replace them and with the absence of nitro fuel and constant spinning, they last a lot longer than nitro setups. Your motor will last longer as well since your motor is no longer used for braking.

The motor mount is aluminum and acts as a heatsink. We don't have any plans for the XB8, but the 808 may be an option for us. We'll see.

Thanks.

teknorc

iTrader: (2)

It does vary a little bit due to the collet and where the threads start on the adapter. Some shimming may be required to make sure the shoes are completely covered or that there isn't excessive slack. Same as nitro pretty much in that regard.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

from the conversions I have seen like the RCPD, the plastic gear shouldn't be affected by chassis flex since the motor is bolted to the mount which is independent from chassis flex, at least, from what I can tell. Since I have an RC8 that is known for its flex, i haven't had an issue.

I have a question on the tekno neu motors:

- will there be a 1512 version in the future?
- What is the warranty on the motor?
- how does this compare to the hacker motor being sold on impaktrc? the hacker appears to be more efficient, and is similar in price now.

teknorc

iTrader: (2)

Hey everybody,

We are almost ready to launch our upcoming brushless kits for the Jammin' X2 CRT and the Mugen MBX5-T. We've just put up the product info and should be shipping by the end of the month.

Jammin' Kits


Mugen Kits


We moved the center diff forward for optimum balance and handling. We've included custom CVD's, a completely new, electric specific 7075 CNC 4mm chassis, and the rest of the Tekno RC V3 goodies for these kits. Check them out and let us know what you think. Thanks.

ambo

iTrader: (48)

The Mugen truggy kit looks trick! Question: What's the inside dimension of your battery tray included in the conversion kit? Can the longer lipo batteries fit in it like the Enerland and Neu?

teknorc

iTrader: (2)

150 x 50mm. For the truggy's, you can cut or grind the back wall of the battery tray to fit longer batteries without an issue. Our 3 strap battery system is the most secure on the market since all three straps wrap around the battery rather than just 'hold' it down in place.

ambo

iTrader: (48)

Thanks for the info!!! I'll have a look inside your store and do more reading..

russo11218

I am intrested in the truggy kit .But,I have also noticed you have eliminated the rx/battery tray and transponder mount etc.So,I guess my question would be where would the most practical postion be for these items ? I can see from the chasis lay out that the e.s.c mounts behind the motor but what about the other goodies ? Also,what advatage was it to change the servo to stand up versus a lay down wich is orginal ? it's not big deal just trying to understand the desighn better before i make a purchase .Thanks for the info ahead of time. bert

badassrevo

iTrader: (12)

Bert,
The reciever and xponder mount in the box under the ESC mount.
Doug

russo11218

Thanks for the response doug .If that is the case that would be great and should make the wiring super easy and neat .Just curiuos though where did you find the info? i skimed over the website listing and only saw the typical copy, paste, insert brand _______discription here thing ..lol.Also,i have noticed that some use some type of big bore on the mbx5t now do you know what type ?bert

russo11218

Just to add to my prior post i was also woundering about 3 rd channel breaks and bias .Once i get this all together am i going to have a seprate brake function button for the break or is it still going to be the traditonal fwd/break and pulling the trigger thorttle ? I have never had to use 3rd channel on my ex-10 or any of my other previuos radios for that matter so i really dunno how that would work out .bert

badassrevo

iTrader: (12)

I got the info from reading the forum and seeing car pictures. I have seen Jammin Big Bores used on the Mbx5t. To use the brakes the easy way would be to set the ESC to 0 for brakes and use a Y to plug the brake servo and esc into the reciever.

teknorc

iTrader: (2)

If you have an EX-10, you should have channel mixing. Basically, the ESC will go into the throttle channel and the brake servo will go into the Aux/3rd channel. Then you use mixing to split the throttle signal to the ESC (forward) and the brake servo (brake). The servo only moves when brakes are applied. Like badassrevo suggested, set the brakes in the ESC to 0 and set it to forward only, no reverse. You can also use a long shank pinion if you want to use motor brakes, but you'll see better performance and lower temps with the mechanical brakes.

We chose a stand up servo because the angles are truer and more accurate left-to-right than laydown servo setups. If you look at most of the newer 1/8 scale buggies/truggies, they are all moving back to stand up steering servos (Mugen, Kyosho, AE, Losi).

teknorc

iTrader: (2)

To address a bunch of emails and PM's ...

Yes we're working on the D8 buggy now. It's going to be pretty cool. No pricing or release date yet. Stay tuned.