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Old 07-28-2008, 11:17 PM   #1
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Default Losi plastic outdrives and aluminum cvd's for xxx-t mf2

I have be looking at the plastic outdrives and aluminukm cvd'd for the gen 2 tranny on my xxx-t mf2. They say they are lighter, have better accelration, and runtime and are for stock motor (what I will be racing with) and I wanted to know if these are worth the money. I am kinda tight on money now but if these make a difference I will buy them.
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Old 07-29-2008, 12:18 AM   #2
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Definitely!

You want every edge you can get in stock class. Losi got it right with the GenII plastic outdrives by adding the little aluminum rings. The first GenI didn't have these and tended to break every once in awhile. They fixed that as well with the newest version made for the CR by adding these rings too.

Combine the plastic outdrives and the aluminum dogbones and you have a lot less rotating mass.

Does this make you faster... not really.. but what you will notice is that getting up to top speed is faster. Your acceleration is greatly improved off the line and out of corners!

As long as you don't crash too much these parts have a long-life and don't really wear as fast as you might think.

They can become collateral damage if you break a ball stud or any part of the rear suspension link...

I suggest the Losi Aluminum dogbones over the Aluminum CVDs. The CVDs wear out the pin hole. You can change the plastic connecting end on the Losi dogbone. The initial cost is a bit because you have to change to the Losi axles instead of the CVDs the MF2 came with... at least then you will have all 4 wheels with the same nuts! lol

Go for it if you can afford it!


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Old 07-29-2008, 12:19 AM   #3
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If you're tight on the money, I say the best bet to improve your lap time would be to practice, practice, practice!

Usually, if I break something, I'll try to replace it with better (stronger) parts if available, but I'm not at the pro level to notice "little" differences.

If you're a pro, and it shaves 0.5 seconds off your laps, then go for it, if you're a joe schmoe basher like me, I don't think you'll see a difference. I say save your money and hit the tracks with it (practice fee) and save the extra dough for parts breakage that may happen (like little kids with the Rustlers and Stampede that are obstacles )
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Old 07-29-2008, 05:59 AM   #4
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Everything that was said is true, but... Chris told me he only gets $20 a week to spend on r/c, and he's looking for a difference he can "feel". Like he just said a half a second is hardly noticeable. I told Chris he would be better off saving a little money and buying batteries with more punch or better electronics. Plus, aluminum this and plastic that is bound to break/wear out sooner than steel.
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Old 07-29-2008, 06:33 AM   #5
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Save your money Chris , your not gonna notice the difference and IMO your better off putting your money elsewhere for parts or better batts like mentioned .
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Old 07-29-2008, 11:24 AM   #6
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Well now I'm getting $35 a week. I have 4 weeks till I go back but the last week I wont get $15. So that means I will have $125 to spend. I was thinking of getting a Novak GTX ESC used for around $60-$75. Is that a good deal for used? Now im down to say $55. I was thinking about buying a cooling system for my truck as after about 5 minutes it is really hot and the guy at the track said it would increase cooling up to 30% and he said with everything it will cost you $25. Should I do that or what other upgrades should I do?
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Old 07-29-2008, 11:33 AM   #7
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Get the aluminum dogbones instead of the CVD's. The pinholes wear out very quickly. I had the problem on my XXX-4. The plastic outdrives with the rings are good though, I used them on my XXX-4 for a long time and i have never cracked or broken one.
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Old 07-30-2008, 12:19 AM   #8
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My honest suggestion to someone in the mid-skill stock class range it to do this upgrade when you are going to change out your steel outdrives and dogbones anyway... it doesn't cost that much more..

Together the Aluminum Dogbones and Plastic Outdrives last just as long as the steel to steel combination... Just so long as they dont become the collateral damage I spoke of before... If you are always breaking the rear end.. then don't do it..

Also this maybe be something to consider only after other things are worked out... like a previous poster said.. Good race batteries for one.. proper traction (tires) for another... gearing.... and most important DRIVING! If you crash every lap.. work on that first before anything! If you can get that down to less than maybe 2 a race.. then go for the real fine tuning such as the outdrive/dogbone issue.


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