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Old 12-30-2008, 06:40 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jph View Post
What is the best temperature to solder batteries?
The hotter, the better, since it will melt the solder in the shortest time. The idea being that you want to melt the solder and heat the battery bar / wire, but not the cell. Ideally, you'd like to apply the heat for 2 - 3 seconds and that's it. Use a battery making jig like the Deans or Venom one to hold the battery bars in place.

A quick primer:
1) Scuff or lightly sand the cell ends
2) Clean the cell ends with motor spray
3) Place cells in battery jig in correct orientation
4) Pre-tin the cell ends
5) Allow cells to cool
6) Use jig hold battery bar(s) in place
7) Apply heat and possibly more solder so that bar "sinks" in puddle of melted solder (one end of battery bar at a time, no more than 3 seconds each)
8) Allow cells to cool
9) Flip jig over and do the other side
10) Allow cells to cool
11) Apply a small amount of Shoe Goo between cells to help hold them together if desired

MuchMore makes a neat jig to help solder tabs on to the cells to solder your wires to, and pre-bent battery bars for the tabs.

http://www.muchmoreusa.com/battery-accys/mmrc2170.jpg
http://www.muchmoreusa.com/battery-accys/mmrc2138.jpg
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Old 12-30-2008, 10:14 AM   #77
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To the OP

take the tips off that bernzomatic torch and just use the flame.

I use it to remove bullets and do other misc soldering work. Tin the cell and bar and then hold the flame tip to the bar for like 3-4 sec and you should be good.

That way you dont have to buy anything else.

the 40 watt weller is pretty much the standard otherwise.
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Old 12-30-2008, 05:40 PM   #78
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i have had a weller for a lonnng time.. My hakko is way better of course but it is way more expensive.. i think a good soldering iron is a must for any rc racer
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Old 12-30-2008, 06:05 PM   #79
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The Hakko 936 is available direct for $79.97, with the "skin" of your choice. Had to beat that deal. It comes with two chisel tips as well. Buy good tools once, and you'll have them for life. This thing heats up in literally 30 seconds.

http://www.hakkousa.com/products_rc.asp
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Old 12-30-2008, 06:34 PM   #80
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+1 hakko´s rule!

[/I]QUOTE=CarbonJoe;5227976]The Hakko 936 is available direct for $79.97, with the "skin" of your choice. Had to beat that deal. It comes with two chisel tips as well. Buy good tools once, and you'll have them for life. This thing heats up in literally 30 seconds.

http://www.hakkousa.com/products_rc.asp[/QUOTE]
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Old 12-31-2008, 07:00 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
The hotter, the better, since it will melt the solder in the shortest time. The idea being that you want to melt the solder and heat the battery bar / wire, but not the cell. Ideally, you'd like to apply the heat for 2 - 3 seconds and that's it. Use a battery making jig like the Deans or Venom one to hold the battery bars in place.

A quick primer:
1) Scuff or lightly sand the cell ends
2) Clean the cell ends with motor spray
3) Place cells in battery jig in correct orientation
4) Pre-tin the cell ends
5) Allow cells to cool
6) Use jig hold battery bar(s) in place
7) Apply heat and possibly more solder so that bar "sinks" in puddle of melted solder (one end of battery bar at a time, no more than 3 seconds each)
8) Allow cells to cool
9) Flip jig over and do the other side
10) Allow cells to cool
11) Apply a small amount of Shoe Goo between cells to help hold them together if desired

MuchMore makes a neat jig to help solder tabs on to the cells to solder your wires to, and pre-bent battery bars for the tabs.

http://www.muchmoreusa.com/battery-accys/mmrc2170.jpg
http://www.muchmoreusa.com/battery-accys/mmrc2138.jpg

Ok, thanks.
I will do this at work, we have a Pace MBT there.
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