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Old 07-24-2008, 11:25 PM   #1
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Default xxx-cr vs xxx bk2

i am looking at buying a xxx bk2 and was wondering if the parts from the xxx cr work on the xxx bk2, and what the main differences are.

thanks for your help
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Old 07-24-2008, 11:36 PM   #2
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the main differences that i can think of off the top of my head are going to be the rear hubs, trans, front shock tower.

wow, thats a lame list. what i would suggest is finding a dirt cheap bk2 roller and use that as spares. or even, you could gradually upgrade to CR parts as you broke bk2 things
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Old 07-24-2008, 11:53 PM   #3
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so the parts are interchangable?
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Old 07-25-2008, 02:23 AM   #4
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there are more parts that arent interchangeable than i listed, i just do not know them
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Old 07-25-2008, 04:29 AM   #5
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Yes. But a BK1 would be more swappable since the tranny's are basically the same, Gen1.
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Old 07-25-2008, 05:25 AM   #6
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i'd really look elsewhere, couldnt stand the CR after months of tryin to get it to work. went to a b4 and never regretted it from the 1st rd on. kyo, HB, and mrc also now have great pieces. not pieces of ....

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Old 07-25-2008, 07:35 AM   #7
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Funny my CR steers just as well as any B4. It just takes a different setup to make them steer. The biggest difference between the CR and the BK2 is the CR has more steering and is more forgiving because of the EA3 plastic. Here is a list of the different parts:

Steering Rack
BK1 style tranny
Shorter rear arms
rear hubs
universal drive shafts are shorter
EA3 plastic arms, chassis, shocktowers

All in all I believe it is about 100 dollars to fully convert a bk1 to a CR with all the EA3 plastic. With a BK2 you are better to just buy a CR kit.
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Old 07-25-2008, 07:37 AM   #8
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I`d go for the CR if you have the money . If not go with a BK1 if you can find one as it will be easier to change into a CR later on .
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Old 07-25-2008, 08:02 AM   #9
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Guessing you are wanting to buy a used bk2? Just find a used CR and save your self the money and time of switching it over.
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Old 07-25-2008, 08:58 AM   #10
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Hey Grape , how is the truck ? I`m missing it already but definitely needed the $$ .
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Old 07-25-2008, 09:56 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Briguy View Post
Hey Grape , how is the truck ? I`m missing it already but definitely needed the $$ .
Haven't driven it yet, but I have everything in it but the reciever, still waiting to get one. But, wow is it clean, I can tell you run on an all clay track, the bottom doesn't have a scratch on it, just clay jammed into the screws. Our track here is a clay but it gets really hard and rough, it eats front bumpers and tires, don't have to make slicks, just one run after the track has been up for a few weeks makes them slicks.
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Old 07-25-2008, 05:29 PM   #12
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Default BK2

Personally I've considered buying a new CR, but I haven't seen one reason to switch over.. I still race my BK2. What I see is the CR's cheap EA3 plastic that breaks very easily... I'm talking about just from jumping and not hitting things.

Look at Ebay.. tons of CR buggies for sale! If you are going to spend $220 on a new car.. go for the BK2 if you can find one.. or the BK1 even.. at least then you have graphite parts and maybe some US screws too..

Sadly Losi/Horizon Hobby went cheap. For many years when Losi was Losi, they had good plastics and US made hardware.. now they have this cheaper EA3 and screws/hardware from China.. Basically they are par with Associated and Kyosho... not to say those are crap.. they are quite good.. just Losi was better.. now just the same...


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Old 07-25-2008, 05:39 PM   #13
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The EA3 is a tuning aid that offers a more forgiving car that has better traction in most conditions. Its not that they went cheap, it offers better performance most of the time. The graphite is still available as an option for those who prefer it.
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Old 07-25-2008, 08:13 PM   #14
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The only ea3 part that I have had a problem with and seen people break more often are the front arms, so I just use the graphite front arms and haven't broke anything in a while and that is running mod.
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Old 07-26-2008, 05:52 AM   #15
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I just dont like the way EA3 STRIPS SO FREAKIN EASY! You literally can only "snug" your bolts. 1/1000th of a turn past snug and its stripped. It doesn't matter if you use a 4-40 hand tap like I do first or not, the stuff is like melted butter.
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