tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

Do these Yeah Racing Lipo fit with no issues? What about the part of the power plug? I'm running the 3Racing chassis, I don't want to resort to sawing off anything on there. I suppose I can go back to the stock chassis...

streetracer745

Yeh I was looking into the yeah racings but the problem is I want to be able to use these batteries for my revo as well. To make a 4s in my converted revo and worry about them putting out the power... Has anyone eagle treed them or anything?

mog ruith

iTrader: (6)

these yeah lipos have good reviews over so far and you do know that both ultraline hobbies and rc mart carries them right?

i have use them in my db01, dt02, zx5 and even in my wild dagger they fit without no problems to say that it fits smoothly in my dagger im very impress
and its almost the same as a stick pack no mods required

streetracer745

I've heard they were good in 1/10 stuff... But how about a revo? I mean this is a 10lbs truck and pulls close to 100A when I hit it hard. I friend my maxamps 3s 5000 and had it geared crazy low...

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

I'm not really sure, but with all due respect, let's try to keep this thread on topic regarding the DF-03s and Tamiyas... Thanks.

streetracer745

Your right this is the df03 thread. Sorry guys. So has anyone found good shocks other than the tamiya ones that fit the df? I was looking at AE shocks but dont know if they will fit...

thefnshow

iTrader: (31)

i have losi shocks on mine 1.2 on the back and i think .6 on the front...maybe they're .9 not exactly sure

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

I've read on the Keen Hawk review on oOple.com that Jimmy grabbed a set of AE shocks for his keen hawk. I think the most critical item is the upper shock bushing and the lower eyelet.

I have used AE shocks successfully on metric cars, I've used AE shocks on Academy SB Pro. All you have to do is thread the Tamiya lower eyelet onto the threaded end of the shock shaft, and for the top bushing, just use 4-40 screws to mate with AE shock bushings. You might need to drill through the holes in the shock towers to fit a 4-40 thread through a hole meant for 3mm... They are pretty darn close though, so if you're using the plastic version of the shock tower, you might be able to just forcefully thread them through...

I personally like the Tamiya DF03 shocks. They are real easy to build. You just have to use thicker oil since I suspect the piston holes to be quite large compared to AE's piston holes...

streetracer745

Yes the few times that I drove it at the track were on stock suspension setups with the tamiya oil and they did good. I just feel like something smoother and mroe adjustable would make it even better

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

I just received the Five Stars Front Hingepin Brace for my DF-03MS. Some issues that I saw with them:

I think these were meant to be installed with the front bumper removed. I currently have the GPM aluminum front bumper installed, I don't see how this brace can be fitted on without cutting out a notch where the loops of the brace are.

There's another issue that I forgot to raise. If you choose to use the GPM Front Lower Gear box with the 3Racing Graphite chassis, the front lip of the chassis is not flush with the front lower gear box. The GPM front lower gear box was designed for the plastic chassis, and the 3Racing chassis' front lip protrudes out slightly. This is not a problem with the stock front lower gear box (plastic).

Strange how the stock front lower gear box fits the 3Racing chassis much better, but the GPM front lower gear box fits the stock chassis better.

I don't see it as causing any problem, but if you really don't like the GPM front lower gear box at a slight angle, you can saw off the front part of the 3Racing chassis slightly to match the stock piece...

I think I'm going to do that, I like the extra degree of kickup in the front with the GPM front lower gear box not being flush, but I wonder what impact it has in durability, I don't want my 3Racing chassis to snap at that point!

pgeldz

Hmm, you think the front hingepin brace would work with the stock bumper, or is it the GPM bumper that's causing the problem?

If not, would it be ok to use the stock lower gearbox without any bumper and just use the T-bones bumper since it mounts to the bottom of the chassis?

All the parts I ordered should be here Friday, including all the Five Stars stuff. I can't wait! (rubs hands together)

Also Tom, I meant to ask you...I can only get HPI and Yokomo shock oil here. What would be the equivalent to the 55w/45w you are using in your buggy if I go with the stock white 2 hole pistons front/rear?

The other set up I wanted to ask you about is if I use the touring pistions (smaller holes), I thought of using the 2 hole up front/3 hole out back, and the same oil all around. If I do that, what oil weight you think would be good for that set up? 35w?

Please let me know...I start the build hopefully this weekend!



- Paulie

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

I'm not really sure about the bumper issue. I have to give the stock bumper a try and see if it fits with the five star racing front brace. The front brace works like the 3Racing rear brace, where you have a set screw capturing the hingepin with no E-Clips on the other side. Since the front brace doesn't have the mounting screws like the rear brace, you have to run a front bumper to prevent it from backing out. I'm guessing that the stock bumper should be able to mount because of it.

I don't think you can use the T-Bone bumper without the stock bumper since the stock bumper makes the front lower gear box flush underneath.

Regarding your suspension question, I have no idea. I have never used HPI and Yokomo oils. It's one of those things that's probably try and see! I had no idea that my shocks would come out so soft even with 45wt oil...

Right now I have Losi 45wt oil for front and rear. As far as I can tell, Losi oil are rated the same as an AE. I'm going to swap out the fronts with AE 60wt and might migrate to AE 50wt for the rear. Since you're using pistons with smaller holes, you can probably use lighter weight oil. I'd experiment with it, since the chances of you getting the right suspension setup on the first setup are always slim... You just start with some known setup and see if you like the way the car handles on your track.

pgeldz

Sweet! Thanks Tom!

I'll let you know how it goes...

- Paulie

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

Paulie, just curious, what did you get for your DF-03? The Five Stars parts can cost you a pretty penny to get, so it'll add up fast... I personally think that if you can find a GPM/3Racing equivalent, then I'd go for those. The parts quality is roughly the same IMO... Can't speak for Yeah/TopCad since I have no experience with those parts...

pgeldz

Here's what I have coming:

- RC Champ titanium screw set
- Squat 850 bearings for steering linkage (x4)
- Tamiya front tires (OP878)
- Tamiya rear tires (OP879)
- T-Bones front and rear bumpers
- Tamiya steel pinion set (16T - 21T, 48pitch)
- Associated B4 spur gear (78T, 81T, and 84T)
- Associated slipper pad set
- Associated lexan gear cover (to experiment with fitting the 84T spur)
- 3 Racing gear box stiffener
- Square RC heavy duty front diff joint
- Square RC heavy duty rear diff joint
- Five Stars steering plate (FS-7036)
- Five Stars motor plate (FS-7048)
- Five Stars aluminum suspension mount set, front/rear (FS-7051)
- Five Stars rear hub carrier (FS-7031)
- Five Stars front knuckle (FS-7034)

Half of it is already here, the other half should be here Friday afternoon. I'm still waiting to order the 5700 Mamba Max combo, as no one seems ot have it in stock.

As for the quality of parts, etc, I usually try to order the Japanese made stuff, usually Five Star, Square, etc. I've found in the past, their quality control/tolerances are usually at a higher level.

Although I have heard that some, not all, of the 3 Racing stuff is very good as well, so that's why I went with their rear brace (also cause no one else makes it, he he he).

- Paulie