igyrigged

iTrader: (1)

I have TT01 universals in mine.

igyrigged

iTrader: (1)

http://thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_deta...=DARK%20IMPACT

littlebuddha

iTrader: (8)

anyone had problems with brushless power - causing a snapping/clicking noise under acceleration or from going reverse to forward? i'm not sure if its the slipper, diff or the actual gears. thanks! I have a slipper clutch as well...

igyrigged

iTrader: (1)

If you still have the stock plastic rear diff halfs, that would be the first thing I would look at. After that, I have over time, running 6.5 brushless, seen the idler gears that go to the driveshaft strip out.

littlebuddha

iTrader: (8)

thanks for the reply igyrigged, i had actually gotten this buggy used and i'm very glad to say that the previous owner had replaced the rear diff with what seems like steel outdrives

it has front one-way as well. I installed rear gpm steel universals, and aluminum hexes.

how loose would you run the slipper clutch? I have tightened the nut to where about 4 grooves showing in the screw.

it was running fine for the first 5 minutes and then the car seemed to slip while accelerating - but even more while going in reverse. Checked and tightened the rear diff i will have to check the idler like you recommended.

It almost seems like the teeth are skipping when I go from a quick reverse to foreward on carpet
The teeth are just too wide i think for it to skip, plus the drive train sounds just fine when off the ground and is smooth and no broken parts when i tightened the diffs.

- so either the slipper is not working as it should, or its something wrong with the slipper or i heard that sometimes the pin in the propeller joints for the shaft can also skip, but i still dont know whats causing the skips/snaps under acceleration - reverse/forward- hopefully its just the slipper working haha.

stu22

Take a very close look at the gears in your buggy. What you're describing is a worn out main or idler shaft gear which seems to be a problem with a DF03 and a high powered motor. I "borrowed" this picture from a thread on the TamiyaClub site (thanks TA-Mark):



The top two shafts are Tamiya parts and are worn out. The bottom one is a Five Stars FS7038 hardened steel.

littlebuddha

iTrader: (8)

thanks for the input! is there any place to buy these? i'm getting one anyways as it seems like a good investment. i'm having a hard time finding it online.

i'll see what i find when i open up the bugggy...

I only wish i had loosened the slipper more- as i went from a stock straight to 4000kv brushless

stu22

To be honest I really don't know if the things are still available or where to get one. The "weak" drive train was one of the reasons i got a DB01 instead of a DF03.

I do know of people running their DF03 with the 9T EzRun systems without any problems (I believe they're 4300kV.)

YDBD

iTrader: (3)

well, guess I'm done with my DF-03MS, cracked the second chassis behind the aluminum plate to keep it from cracking, sold the whole thing that night for about 160.....Had fun with it but moving on to other things...and no...not a Durango...

mjderstine

iTrader: (8)

sorry to hear you are moving on. i still have mine but i think its just gonna be a shelf queen. or something to bring out to have guys guess what it is.

if i start racing 4wd, i think i'll head to a DB01, or the new caster buggy.

littlebuddha

iTrader: (8)

hi guys, finally got around to replacing the melted diff halves and the car runs great- had a couple of runs so far so here is hoping that it holds out. It runs much smoother than the b44 and xxx-4 over the grass bumps - very plush suspension with the trf dampers although it may just be the setup.

i had a problem with clicking from the front one way- and i opened it up to see that the gears were not greased and had worn out at certain places. I noticed that one of the 10mm x.02 shims is also missing so i'm hoping its a problem with not having the shim.

Since i did not build it(got it used) i need to know if in the one-way instructions they reccomend using one shim on each side? or is it both like in the manual for the front diff?

if so does anyone have a couple of extra 10mm shims lying around? would be happy to pay. Thanks!

K10wN

No problems stu22. I've now sold two of my three DF03s and the third one (boxart Dark Impact with a FS7038 mainshaft) is disused. I got so sick of buying new slipper sets and not being able to get the Five Stars shafts easily.

Replaced my DF03s with HPI Cyber 10Bs. These Cybers are great and haven't looked back.

FatBattery

Mate this is a beautiful thing. Tell me why you are giving up on it? I think the dbo1 with its belts will give you more issues.

BTW rc champ in japan has the shafts. I got 2 from them recently.

Whats got me stuffed with my df03 is the drive cups. I cant think of a way of fixing them to be reliable. Does anyone know of a drive cup that lasts? I compared the hotbodies d4 cups but I believe they are just a little too different to fit.

edit Iam surprised you are running the stock mid shaft drive cups. I guess you cant run a alloy one up the front because of the one way.

cheehtae

iTrader: (15)

and also tamiya is coming out with a 502x which is shaft driven, which PROBABLY means shaft is better than belt for offroad or maybe not.

FatBattery

No probably just means they can sell more shaft drives. Belts and ball diffs are high maintanance. I wish they would do a option for one of there neat gear diffs they have for there 502x. Would make it a nice buggy. People just always want to see somthing new. To give them a reason for buying a new buggy. I do anyway.

It wont ballance right with lipo. I wish they would of done somthing interesting like the df03. Maybe shaft drive offset with a stickpack laying beside it. Df03 still has the best motor position I think. Thats what I find facinating about tamiya's all the gears and shafts and pulleys.Funky little machines.

http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/beg..._img/ta03f.jpg

Check that out... front motor belt 4wd. Only tamiya could of wanted to do that. Goter have 1!