Tamiya DF-03 type
08-26-2009, 03:45 AM
#796
hay duck, that sounds mad!!
would love to see the pics of the DB01, and the df03
would love to see the pics of the DB01, and the df03
08-26-2009, 03:34 PM
#797
Originally Posted by Forgetful_Duck
Anyhow guys I have just defected. My DB01 and all it's upgarde parts just arrived.... TRF501 stablizer bars, TRF shocks, front rear alu bulkheads, slipper, belt tensioners, trf501 diff joints, etc etc the LOT to make an awesome car...
The DF03MS will now take the side bench. (two cars, break one grab the other...)
The DF03MS will now take the side bench. (two cars, break one grab the other...)
. I wonder which one will get more workouts???? Would love to see pics also...
08-31-2009, 04:05 AM
#798
TOM, i received my t-bone bumper, looks great!
still waitin 4 my motor
still waitin 4 my motor
09-01-2009, 08:30 PM
#799
Tech Apprentice
does anyone knows whether lipo batt with cell dimension 138mm x 46.5mm x 24mm will fit on df03-ra ?
TIA
Leonardi
TIA
Leonardi
09-02-2009, 01:02 AM
#800
Originally Posted by leonardiw
does anyone knows whether lipo batt with cell dimension 138mm x 46.5mm x 24mm will fit on df03-ra ?
TIA
Leonardi
TIA
Leonardi
yeah, thats the lip's that i use, they fit, tight, but fits!!!!
09-02-2009, 08:45 AM
#801
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by oty
yeah, thats the lip's that i use, they fit, tight, but fits!!!!
on 2nd thought i might use INTELLECT LIPO BATTERY RACE PACK 7.4v 5000mAh 40c (hardcase) 137.8 x 46.8 x 23.3mm, will it fit on df03 batt compartment ?
09-03-2009, 12:59 AM
#803
Ive got IP 7.4 4600 mAh 20C, and that fits good, but my intellect 7.4 5000 mAh 30C bullet connector is tight. only because of the bumps on the bottom, but it still fits!
hope that helps!
p.s, the new batt u have posted is a little smaller so it should fit fine
hope that helps!
p.s, the new batt u have posted is a little smaller so it should fit fine
09-14-2009, 12:31 AM
#804
You know, that FS Racing Buggy Pro thingie from the UK really caught my attention. On one of the UK hobby sites, it's listed as 89 BP which isn't a bad price considering that it's RTR with aluminum shocks.
Looking at it closely, I really can't see it as clone, it really looks like a re-packaged DF-03... The copy is just too darn close, and I can't imagine the profit margin on RC cars are large enough to make even cloning fiscally sensible...
I wonder if Tamiya struck a deal with an RC house out there that bought the DF-03 OEM style and just added stuff to make it "worthy" of their packaging?
I definitely like their thrust bearings, it is a heck of a lot better then the crud that Tamiya packed in.
In mine, I'm still using the four-washer, steel ball, thrust bearings. Similar to my B44 thrust bearing style, except I doubled the washer because the washer I use are just thin...
So far so good. I haven't had a chance to take my newly done DF-03 out to the track yet. It's got a new hobby wing ESC that I've only tested on the street, full-time 4wd (got rid of the one-way), and I also pulled off the sway bar just to see how it handles, since i've never ran it without any sway bars since I bought the car...
How many of you guys run it with a sway bar and how many of you out there not run the sway bar? Seems like it was a bit too stiff for my taste when I had it on, but my local track's layout style has been more like a CORR style layout on the last few track changes, since CORR trucks are really popular, the tracks seems a lot more smoother with more rolling hills then very technical stuff that this buggy used to run in...
My next visit to the track, it's DF-03 time!
Looking at it closely, I really can't see it as clone, it really looks like a re-packaged DF-03... The copy is just too darn close, and I can't imagine the profit margin on RC cars are large enough to make even cloning fiscally sensible...
I wonder if Tamiya struck a deal with an RC house out there that bought the DF-03 OEM style and just added stuff to make it "worthy" of their packaging?
I definitely like their thrust bearings, it is a heck of a lot better then the crud that Tamiya packed in.
In mine, I'm still using the four-washer, steel ball, thrust bearings. Similar to my B44 thrust bearing style, except I doubled the washer because the washer I use are just thin...
So far so good. I haven't had a chance to take my newly done DF-03 out to the track yet. It's got a new hobby wing ESC that I've only tested on the street, full-time 4wd (got rid of the one-way), and I also pulled off the sway bar just to see how it handles, since i've never ran it without any sway bars since I bought the car...
How many of you guys run it with a sway bar and how many of you out there not run the sway bar? Seems like it was a bit too stiff for my taste when I had it on, but my local track's layout style has been more like a CORR style layout on the last few track changes, since CORR trucks are really popular, the tracks seems a lot more smoother with more rolling hills then very technical stuff that this buggy used to run in...
My next visit to the track, it's DF-03 time!
09-16-2009, 05:20 AM
#805
my novac is finally on its way home, its been upgraded and should b here in a week or so, yay!!!!!
only took 2 months, lol
only took 2 months, lol
09-16-2009, 11:17 AM
#806
Tech Rookie
DF-03 Durability?
Hi All,
I see a lot of posts about the DF-03, so I am hoping to get some feedback as to whether or not certain upgrades are worthwhile. My Keen Hawk didn't survive to well at the local track.. I wrote up an article about it at: RCnewbie.com/2009/09/track-test-tamiya-keen-hawk-swoop-or.html
My front differential cups were basically toast after a short off-road run. Do the hardened steel ones I see on eBay keep this from happening again?
My chassis cracked too... is 3racing the only aftermarket option available? I guess the chassis is only $10.. but carbon/graphite is always nice too if the price is right.
Thanks!
I see a lot of posts about the DF-03, so I am hoping to get some feedback as to whether or not certain upgrades are worthwhile. My Keen Hawk didn't survive to well at the local track.. I wrote up an article about it at: RCnewbie.com/2009/09/track-test-tamiya-keen-hawk-swoop-or.html
My front differential cups were basically toast after a short off-road run. Do the hardened steel ones I see on eBay keep this from happening again?
My chassis cracked too... is 3racing the only aftermarket option available? I guess the chassis is only $10.. but carbon/graphite is always nice too if the price is right.
Thanks!
09-16-2009, 02:12 PM
#807
hey, welcome to the DF-03 thread! Your questions are all very similar to the questions that I had and many other had when we all started...
As for the front differential, I stuck with the Tamiya steel differential cups. Kit-wise, the fronts comes with steel and the rear comes with plastic/steel hybrid ones (don't know Tamiya chose this awkward configuration).
My opinion is, stick with the Tamiya Front cups for the front and rear (they are identical so you can use the steel fronts in the rear)...
I've tried 3-Racing's Steel HD cups, but they were very weak in my experience, I've managed to snap them on my first outing...
The front steel cups from Tamiyas do tend to wear out a lot quicker then the steel ones I have on my B44... But Tamiyas are the best ones out there IMO...
As for the chassis, to protect it from cracking, I highly suggest checking out a few posts above where I recommended the T-Bone Racing front SKID/BUMPER type of bumper... This bumper no only serves as a bumper but it also serves as a skid, which reinforces the joint where the front nose piece (the piece where your front arms are attached to) to the chassis.
Also, you mentioned the keen hawk. It might be prudent to get a slipper clutch for it. With today's brushless motors, if you don't use a slipper, the full initial force of the motor gets transferred to the entire drive train which puts a ton of strain on it...
The slipper clutch also protects the drive train somewhat if you use the brakes during landing. I always try to tweak my suspension such that I only need minimum breaking to correct the car in the air when it's launched...
I actually started with 3Racing's graphite chassis. I went back to the plastic chassis because I wanted the tub to keep the dirt out and I didn't really mind the plastic chassis being scratched. I was just getting tired of it being scratched.
As for the front differential, I stuck with the Tamiya steel differential cups. Kit-wise, the fronts comes with steel and the rear comes with plastic/steel hybrid ones (don't know Tamiya chose this awkward configuration).
My opinion is, stick with the Tamiya Front cups for the front and rear (they are identical so you can use the steel fronts in the rear)...
I've tried 3-Racing's Steel HD cups, but they were very weak in my experience, I've managed to snap them on my first outing...
The front steel cups from Tamiyas do tend to wear out a lot quicker then the steel ones I have on my B44... But Tamiyas are the best ones out there IMO...
As for the chassis, to protect it from cracking, I highly suggest checking out a few posts above where I recommended the T-Bone Racing front SKID/BUMPER type of bumper... This bumper no only serves as a bumper but it also serves as a skid, which reinforces the joint where the front nose piece (the piece where your front arms are attached to) to the chassis.
Also, you mentioned the keen hawk. It might be prudent to get a slipper clutch for it. With today's brushless motors, if you don't use a slipper, the full initial force of the motor gets transferred to the entire drive train which puts a ton of strain on it...
The slipper clutch also protects the drive train somewhat if you use the brakes during landing. I always try to tweak my suspension such that I only need minimum breaking to correct the car in the air when it's launched...
I actually started with 3Racing's graphite chassis. I went back to the plastic chassis because I wanted the tub to keep the dirt out and I didn't really mind the plastic chassis being scratched. I was just getting tired of it being scratched.
09-16-2009, 11:29 PM
#808
WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE, im not the new guy any more, lol
i got myself the T_bone bumbers and they r great!!
a slipper is a must, ive read a lot of threads and thats the first thing u need!
ive also got 3 racing graphite shock towers, 3 racing suspension brace, heat sink bars, and alloy drive shafts!
i still want to get suspension, rear gearbox stifner, and front gearbox lower mount and some soft tyres.
i am also thinking of getting alloy hubs and knuckles now that i have a little protection, what do u think Tom??
i got myself the T_bone bumbers and they r great!!
a slipper is a must, ive read a lot of threads and thats the first thing u need!
ive also got 3 racing graphite shock towers, 3 racing suspension brace, heat sink bars, and alloy drive shafts!
i still want to get suspension, rear gearbox stifner, and front gearbox lower mount and some soft tyres.
i am also thinking of getting alloy hubs and knuckles now that i have a little protection, what do u think Tom??
09-17-2009, 12:24 AM
#809
Yeah, the aluminum hubs and knuckles is what I use... I don't really have any good reason to do so, I've just always had it like that on my other 4wd (BJ4WE), so I just chose to. The ones I'm using are the GPM ones...
Other then that, the only other aluminum pieces you need are just the rear hinge brace, rear transmission brace, and a DIY (do-it-yourself) rear shock tower brace. The DIY rear shock tower brace that I'm using were a sawed-off piece from a GPM rear aluminum shock tower that snapped on the first flip.
Regarding the carbon fiber shock towers, i would be very careful with it. I've switched back to plastic because they were cheaper to replace after I snapped my first set (3Racing graphite shock tower)...
There's one more brace that I haven't mentioned. It's the Five-Star front hingepin brace. I chose the Five-Star over the others because it's an aluminum one...
Five-Star stuff is a bit hard to find since their website is non-existent (what century is this?). I forgot what the part number is, if you do a search on this thread, you'll be able to find it. My cousin in Japan got it for me from RC Champ, which is incidentally one of the sponsors for this lovely forum...
For tires, I only use Prolines and JConcept stuff. Tamiya stuffs are good too, but I'm not familiar with it...
Currently, I have the Proline Holeshot M3 for front and rear. If I was to replace it, I would get a set of JConcept Double Dees. The track I run on is hard-packed and smooth clay. If I was running on something looser or more gravelly, I would run the JConcept Goosebumps...
Holeshots are wonderful, but they don't last as long as the Double Dees... My favorite compound for Holeshots are actually R3s and not the M3s that is currently on my buggy. It's just I took the M3 compound Holeshots that came with my B44 kit and gave it to the Dark Impact, while I ran the Double-Dee (green compound) on my B44...
Other then that, the only other aluminum pieces you need are just the rear hinge brace, rear transmission brace, and a DIY (do-it-yourself) rear shock tower brace. The DIY rear shock tower brace that I'm using were a sawed-off piece from a GPM rear aluminum shock tower that snapped on the first flip.
Regarding the carbon fiber shock towers, i would be very careful with it. I've switched back to plastic because they were cheaper to replace after I snapped my first set (3Racing graphite shock tower)...
There's one more brace that I haven't mentioned. It's the Five-Star front hingepin brace. I chose the Five-Star over the others because it's an aluminum one...
Five-Star stuff is a bit hard to find since their website is non-existent (what century is this?). I forgot what the part number is, if you do a search on this thread, you'll be able to find it. My cousin in Japan got it for me from RC Champ, which is incidentally one of the sponsors for this lovely forum...
For tires, I only use Prolines and JConcept stuff. Tamiya stuffs are good too, but I'm not familiar with it...
Currently, I have the Proline Holeshot M3 for front and rear. If I was to replace it, I would get a set of JConcept Double Dees. The track I run on is hard-packed and smooth clay. If I was running on something looser or more gravelly, I would run the JConcept Goosebumps...
Holeshots are wonderful, but they don't last as long as the Double Dees... My favorite compound for Holeshots are actually R3s and not the M3s that is currently on my buggy. It's just I took the M3 compound Holeshots that came with my B44 kit and gave it to the Dark Impact, while I ran the Double-Dee (green compound) on my B44...
09-19-2009, 08:30 PM
#810
Well, I had a BLAST today at my local track all day with my DF-03MS... My buggy surived all kinds of abuse, broke one shock tower, but I think it was because an 1/8th scale landed hard on top of my buggy...
Two major things that should get the most credit for strengthening up the car:
T-Bone Front Skid/Bumper
DIY Rear shock tower/transmission case brace...
Ran the Hobbywing ESC + 4300Kv for the first time as well... I must say, THIS THING RIPS! The ESC was cool the whole time, since it has a fan, the motor seemed like a much higher turn then the 4600Kv Castle that I was running, even though it is only a 300Kv of difference...
One thing that I did notice, I'm running 1-hole pistons (the black ones, not the white MS ones), and I had 35 wt oil rear with 40wt oil fronts. The rear felt a little bit too stiff. I think I'm going to try a 30 rear and 35wt front next time around...
I'll post my post-mortem on all the parts and setup I used after I clean up my car... I dont' really remember on top of my head...
Two major things that should get the most credit for strengthening up the car:
T-Bone Front Skid/Bumper
DIY Rear shock tower/transmission case brace...
Ran the Hobbywing ESC + 4300Kv for the first time as well... I must say, THIS THING RIPS! The ESC was cool the whole time, since it has a fan, the motor seemed like a much higher turn then the 4600Kv Castle that I was running, even though it is only a 300Kv of difference...
One thing that I did notice, I'm running 1-hole pistons (the black ones, not the white MS ones), and I had 35 wt oil rear with 40wt oil fronts. The rear felt a little bit too stiff. I think I'm going to try a 30 rear and 35wt front next time around...
I'll post my post-mortem on all the parts and setup I used after I clean up my car... I dont' really remember on top of my head...
