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Tamiya DF-03 type

Tamiya DF-03 type

Old 06-04-2009, 01:13 AM
  #721  
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Originally Posted by tom_chang79 View Post
I have a broken GPM rear aluminum shock tower )
How'd you manage that? Those towers are BEEF arint they?
I bought some front a pair of GPM front knuckles and a front tower (not goign to use it yet), and that tower is BEEF!
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Old 06-04-2009, 11:26 AM
  #722  
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New video's from a fun night out!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10ratAOQNHU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArdGtoSzNRo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztViLvqJWTM

Mmmm in the videos u can see "SLOW" Written on the floor... We were doing between 80-90km/h....
Car park speed limit... 10....
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Old 06-05-2009, 12:03 AM
  #723  
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Originally Posted by Forgetful_Duck View Post
Slightly annoying... Bought a new proper tamiya cup now $9USD posted from ebay...
I'm not sure if Tobee is Japanese, I think they are probably a Chinese company...

I've found that many of the metals from manufacturers in China are very weak. I've learned over replacing many of the "hopups" that I've put onto my DF-03 that when in doubt, I should stick with either Tamiya's metals or Five Stars. But then again, there was a debate a few pages back regarding Tamiya's steel being soft as well...

As for the GPM shock tower, they were nice when I had it on, but they are made from really weak aluminum. As beefy as they were, the material is from a cheap unknown aluminum stock. I think there's a reason why they don't specify what type of Aluminum it is.

For now, I'm sticking with Tamiya's stock plastic shock towers. I still have the 3Racing's carbon front tower intact (the rear has cracked and broken), but I'm trying to keep a consistency...

Bummer about your chassis FD, did you have a T-Bone brace/skid bumper on yours? I highly suggest the new DF-03 bumper from TBR for any chassis, carbon or the plastic...

Hey LoonyToonz, when I can't find Tamiya stuff anywhere, I just order it directly from Tamiya themselves. However, they are pretty bad with restocking some of their items. I'm still waiting for Tamiya to restock the DF-03 plastic chassis, they are cheap so I would like to stock about two of them as spares in my private hobby shop, a.k.a. my tool box

Not sure why even many of the Hong Kong shops don't carry the DF-03 plastic chassis, maybe there's a shortage? But I think Velrip carries them, I'll probably end up ordering from them...
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Old 06-05-2009, 12:17 AM
  #724  
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Yeh i had the bumpers on wehn crash occured. Went straight to the next weakest link.

I hit really hard into a solid object.... all the force transferred into the chassis. My new chassis from vellrip arrived (bought the last one)

I'm thinking about buying the tamiya Tungsten CArbide Diff balls, $20 USD for all 10. use em in the rear.

Also, stuff from vellrip, like diff joints, tree parts, chassis, they dont come with tags.
It looks like its all taken from split kits. Though my friend who also ordered a df03 chassis a few days before i did from them, got it and it was a proper Spare part item with tag and number etc. It also had the ROHS icon thing on the inside of the tub, which the kit chassis and my new non tagged chassis seems to lack.
Me and my friend also have 4 A tree parts between us lol.

Whenever i take out the brace to access the diff at the back, my rear shck tower wobbles like crazy. I swear i can just pull it off.
Seriously the 2 strips of metal holds the tower nice and square so well. We also bought like a bag of 200 stainless, longer, machine screws, some coutner sunks for underside as well, hex screws for the motor mounts etc. So much better.
I'm sick of the tapping screws, strip everything out. Also most the holes are deep enough to take a longer screw.
hmmm Time to slap on my new chassis...

EDIT: Tom, have you tried running 3S lipo's on your new 60A esc and motor? Hobbywing set.

Last edited by Forgetful_Duck; 06-05-2009 at 12:34 AM.
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Old 06-05-2009, 12:37 AM
  #725  
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Originally Posted by Forgetful_Duck View Post
EDIT: Tom, have you tried running 3S lipo's on your new 60A esc and motor? Hobbywing set.
I don't have any LiPos right now, but I will let you all know when I do...
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Old 06-05-2009, 06:33 AM
  #726  
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Just got around to making my aluminium rear shock tower brace now too. Had some 2 or 3mm Ali sheet lying around, cut it out with some tinsnips. Took a bit of time to properly line up the holes just right.

Certainly makes a massive difference to the stiffness of those lower mounts. Almost zero movement now in the camber of the rear wheels. Put the braces on both of my Dark Impacts. The spare one I have I've been raiding for parts and the rear shock tower on it has splits up nearly the entire sides on the mount. It would almost flex a good 2cm back and forward, literally, only being held on only by the top edge of the mount. But after adding the brace its almost rock solid again. It would take a good hit to break it now I think.

I just got my front and rear ceramic nitride diff balls from acerracing.com for $20 USD delivered. Haven't got around to putting them in just yet.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya DF-03 type-rear-brace.jpg  
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Old 06-05-2009, 07:18 AM
  #727  
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Default The bottom Blue Brace?

Hi,

Sorry if this has been covered else where, but what is the bottom blue brace?

Who manufactures it?

Thanks

Graeme
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Old 06-05-2009, 09:45 AM
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That part would be

DF03-21/LB Alum Rear Suspension Brace For DF-03 Chassis

Its 3Racing brand. Prevents your rear arms from ripping out of the rear gear box on impacts.
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Old 06-07-2009, 02:20 AM
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Yeah, they are a fairly mandatory part in my opinion!
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Old 06-08-2009, 06:08 PM
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how are you fitting your speed controls in the plastic tub df03's. My lrp sphere will not fit
Pics please
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Old 06-08-2009, 08:08 PM
  #731  
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^^^ had the same problem so i made a ledge out of excess polycarbonate, the tub seems to attract a lot of dirt and debris so this helped


gotta love the versatility of this chassis, started out as a rally, then vintage transAm style and now its a buggy of sorts. with a 4600kv powering it the thing is awesome bashing around the backyard.

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Old 06-08-2009, 10:48 PM
  #732  
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That is one sweet looking buggy.

Not sure about the LRP, but the EZRun fit pretty good. I used to have the Mamba Max, which is pretty large compared to other ESCs, so if the MM can fit, I'm sure you can make other speedos fit.

The tub really makes it hard to fit, I started out with the carbon chassis, and since the chassis didn't have side-walls, I never had problems fitting in electronics, even though it may hang off to the side a bit.

Just be careful getting hit from the side if you're using the carbon chassis...

freeway, awesome looking DF-03RA! I really dig that baja bug style you have for your ride!

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Old 06-08-2009, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by tom_chang79 View Post
That is one sweet looking buggy.

Not sure about the LRP, but the EZRun fit pretty good. I used to have the Mamba Max, which is pretty large compared to other ESCs, so if the MM can fit, I'm sure you can make other speedos fit.

The tub really makes it hard to fit, I started out with the carbon chassis, and since the chassis didn't have side-walls, I never had problems fitting in electronics, even though it may hang off to the side a bit.

Just be careful getting hit from the side if you're using the carbon chassis...

freeway, awesome looking DF-03RA! I really dig that baja bug style you have for your ride!

thanks brau, you mentioned carbon chassis, is this the one at rcmart for the DF03 ? if so this will be a direct replacement for my chassis right ? TIA
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Old 06-08-2009, 11:14 PM
  #734  
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Yeah, I'm using the 3Racing carbon chassis. I didn't really expect much seeing that it's made in Hong Kong, but they surprised me. The 3Racing chassis is quite good. I would say that the quality was beyond my expectations.

There are actually three carbon chassis available for the DF-03 buggies/cars:

1) Xenon - This is by far probably the highest quality. It preserves the battery being in the center, the battery loading pin (the stuff that holds the battery door) and the chassis is VERY thick. I think it's a 3mm or a 4mm thickness. I know that it's about 1mm or 1.5mm thicker then the 3Racing one. It's made in Japan so I don't believe they've cheaped out on materials (not all carbon fibers are the same quality, compare the stuff from Team Associated versus Team Academy). However, you will pay $$$ for this chassis. It is THE most expensive choice...

2) 3Racing - This is the one I use. There are two colors availabe. The black one and the silver one. The silver one is VERY trick looking IMO. I use the black one cause I'm cheap. :P

It preserves the battery down the center as well, but the way the battery door is loaded is different. Instead of the pin holding the battery door, it uses two nubs and body clips. This method is just as secure as the pin, but it can be a pain in the butt to remove the clips and put on the clips when you're electronics surrounds it. Nonetheless, it's a pretty quality chassis. Just remember to disassemble it when you buy it (it comes assembled) and run Loctite blue on all the screws that has metal to metal contact...

3) KMC - This one is probably the second most expensive chassis. It turns the batter down the center scheme to the saddle scheme. It may seem like why bother when there's B44, D4, ZX-5 FS, and etc., but the saddle-based DF-03 is quite different from these other saddle 4wd buggy because the motor is located towards the rear. This presents a slightly different feel and weight distribution, which will force you to set up your car a little differently then how you would for a B44...


I went back to the stock tub eventually because I had some durability issues of my A-Parts, which is what I think is caused by the carbon chassis being stiffer, but I think I got the durability thing solved with TBR's Front bumper/skid plate. I'm just too lazy to transfer my junk back onto the 3Racing chassis :P


Hope that helps...

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Old 06-09-2009, 10:40 AM
  #735  
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^^^ thanks, i was thinking of dremelling off the sides of the tub, just not sure if anybody tried this or if it f-up the tub, at $8 a tub its not bad ???
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