Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Tamiya DF-03 type >

Tamiya DF-03 type

Tamiya DF-03 type

Old 01-08-2009, 06:33 PM
  #271  
Tech Elite
 
streetracer745's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,291
Default

I had a maxamps 5000. It was TIGHT and I had to cut some of the top of the battery slot to make room for the wires to come out clean. it was stupidly fast. No matter how fast I was going it would spin around if I hit the throttle hard
streetracer745 is offline  
Old 01-08-2009, 07:42 PM
  #272  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
 
nexxus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 8,841
Trader Rating: 315 (100%+)
Default

Ahh ok maybe the Losi or Reedy 3s will work

Had nothing but problems with maxamps.
nexxus is offline  
Old 01-08-2009, 07:54 PM
  #273  
Tech Elite
 
streetracer745's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,291
Default

You wont fit anything bigger than 24-25mm thick. Especially with a hardcase. I wouldnt run a 3s lipo... It was honestly useless. Even for bashing. ALl it did was cause problems and rip my drivetrain apart. I melted atleast one gear or bearing almost everytime I drove... Stick with 2s. Plenty of power and speed for this little thing. And my maxamps pack did great. Got almost a year and probably 300+ cycles through it. And I think the only reason it died was because I was using it in my brushless revo for a while.
streetracer745 is offline  
Old 01-09-2009, 01:02 AM
  #274  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
T Fears's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 220
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I am reallllly fortunate to have an AMAZING track only about 25 minutes from my house durning the winter and it is indoor. I am looking to get into the 4wd class. No one has a tamiya of any kind at my track and we get well over 100 entries a night. I think the smallest turnout has been like 133. This is EVERY WEEK! Its awsome. Everyone runs b44's but there are a couple of losi cars and a few kyosho zx5's. I am hoping to get a df-03ms. I am going to buy ALOT of parts straight off the bat so I dont have to wait on parts. Thought I might ask some questions:

What breaks the most?

What are the ms shocks like compared to the trf501x's shocks?

How easy is it to swap spurs with a b4 spurgear?

Do kyosho zx5 rims fit on this car?

Does shotgun style batteries fit? What about soldered bar type batteries?

Planning on running a novak havok 8.5 brushless. How well do you think the drivetrain will hold up?

Here is a list of hop ups I am going to run straight off the bat:

3racing front and rear shocktowers, front and rear outdrives, rear suspension brace, and eithor the gpm front end or the 3racing graphite front suspension brace.

I also plan on trying the swaybars linked earlier in this thread. Also, if anyone has any track set up sheets I would be interested in looking at them if you found they did anything for you. Thanks guys! Looking forward to joining the club

Here is a vid of my track and my rustler (on ebay) so you can see how awsome the track is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMJpH0JdAJg

Last edited by T Fears; 01-09-2009 at 01:24 AM.
T Fears is offline  
Old 01-09-2009, 01:36 PM
  #275  
Tech Elite
 
streetracer745's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,291
Default

That track looks awsome! Can you PM with everything you've done with the rustler? Dont want to polute the DF thread with traxxas stuff.

Anyways. The buggy is pretty tough. I havent broken any part other than gears actually... I would recomend building the diffs with good bearings and carbide balls and all the fancy stuff. Especially for racing. The 3racing parts will do well. I have heard nothing but good about them and Im considering getting a lot of their parts once my df is functioning completely again... Swaybars are always a good thing on the track and that one is really smooth so they won't cause the car to tip or anything from bumps. I am almost positive that the B4 spur is simply get B4 pads and gear... Someone who has run it before can correct me on this? I believe the shocks are the same as the ones from the 501x basically. They are good shocks though. TRF parts are quality. I feel like the biggest thing for you to upgrade will be tires... I dont know about the wheels though. Never tried and likely never will... Hope some of this rambling is helpful
streetracer745 is offline  
Old 01-09-2009, 05:21 PM
  #276  
Tech Master
iTrader: (85)
 
leerjet1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Plover, WI USA, Planet Earth
Posts: 1,843
Trader Rating: 85 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by T Fears View Post
How easy is it to swap spurs with a b4 spurgear?



Does shotgun style batteries fit? What about soldered bar type batteries?



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMJpH0JdAJg
To use the B4 spur you just have to enlarge the center hole on the spur slightly. I used a body reamer. Go slow, its easy to go too much. You can use the stock tamiya slipper pad, you just have to do some trimming with scissors.

Stick packs [shotgun?] fit and also side by side, although with side by side you have to get creative on how you run the wires. Also the wires you use can be no thicker than 14 guage. Reason being they have to run along the side and there just isn't room for 12 guage.
Another thing you guys should know, the front end can be made considerably stronger just by replacing the front a-arm pins with the u shaped pin from the df-02 buggy. They fit perfectly, just have to be shortened a little if I remember correctly. It acts like a front brace. With a little creativity this part can even be used on the rear to strengthen it. I did it to mine. LMK if you guys want pics of it.
Larry.
leerjet1 is offline  
Old 01-09-2009, 08:40 PM
  #277  
Tech Elite
 
streetracer745's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,291
Default

I'd love to see some pics. Do you have the part number as well? I need to order a bunch of tamiya parts sometime soon so might as well add that one in
streetracer745 is offline  
Old 01-09-2009, 10:24 PM
  #278  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
 
valyau2002's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 108
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default U-Shaped DF-02 Shaft

I believe this is the item you are looking at;

https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...oduct-id=51082


Val
valyau2002 is offline  
Old 01-10-2009, 09:17 AM
  #279  
Tech Master
iTrader: (85)
 
leerjet1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Plover, WI USA, Planet Earth
Posts: 1,843
Trader Rating: 85 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by valyau2002 View Post
I believe this is the item you are looking at;

https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...oduct-id=51082


Val
Yes that is the part. Here are some pics;
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya DF-03 type-front-brace.jpg   Tamiya DF-03 type-rear-brace.jpg   Tamiya DF-03 type-rear-3racing-brace.jpg   Tamiya DF-03 type-battery-layout.jpg  
leerjet1 is offline  
Old 01-10-2009, 09:22 AM
  #280  
Tech Master
iTrader: (85)
 
leerjet1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Plover, WI USA, Planet Earth
Posts: 1,843
Trader Rating: 85 (100%+)
Default

Some more pics of the electronics and battery layout.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya DF-03 type-electronics-top.jpg   Tamiya DF-03 type-battery-bottom.jpg  
leerjet1 is offline  
Old 01-10-2009, 09:43 AM
  #281  
Tech Elite
 
streetracer745's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,291
Default

And you say that you can possibly use the u shaft on the rear to stiffen it up as well? Is there any cutting of the chassis or just shortening the shafts?
streetracer745 is offline  
Old 01-10-2009, 06:51 PM
  #282  
Tech Master
iTrader: (85)
 
leerjet1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Plover, WI USA, Planet Earth
Posts: 1,843
Trader Rating: 85 (100%+)
Default

No cutting or grinding needed for the rear brace. You will need to remove the rear assy and tranny to get it in though. It will limit the range of pinion sizes you can use. I am using 26 pinion, 81 b-4 spur with my mamba max 4600. Kind of tall gearing, but its still fast and never gets too warm.
The front brace is ground a little shorter, thats all. With these braces on your front bulkhead, a-arms and tranny case are well protected.
Larry
leerjet1 is offline  
Old 01-10-2009, 06:59 PM
  #283  
Tech Elite
 
streetracer745's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,291
Default

Just might have to do that. They are cheap so seems like a good way to strengthen everything up
streetracer745 is offline  
Old 01-10-2009, 07:09 PM
  #284  
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
 
tom_chang79's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,591
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Hi All,

Let me try to answer some of your questions T Fears

What breaks the most?

The part that I broke so far is the pair of front outdrives. One of ball cups popped off in the front so the suspension arm traveled beyond its limits and the dog bone end of the drive shaft tweaked it and snapped in half. This was the 3Racing steel outdrives. I'm now using the kit's steel outdrives.

The arms too if you race long enough, but not sure, I haven't broken one yet...

What are the ms shocks like compared to the trf501x's shocks?

Not really sure, I have never used the TRF shocks... All I know from comparing it to AE's shocks (which I've been using all my life on AE's vehicles) is that the MS shocks are very nice and smooth. It was a pleasure to build. The only thing is, the piston holes seems too big, so I had to use thicker oil. Where I used 45wt for my front AE shocks on the B44, I used 55wt for my DF-03MS for the same track. My DF-03MS still uses the stock "white" springs.

How easy is it to swap spurs with a b4 spurgear?

VERY easy. I was very surprised how close the shaft size were. Like what leerjet1 stated above, I used a tapered reamer. All you need to do is ream out jus a tiny bit. If you choose to use Tamiya slipper pads, it's exactly what leerjet1 said, just need to trim it a bit. You can buy AE slipper pads too if you want to skip the trimming...

Do kyosho zx5 rims fit on this car?

Not really sure, can someone answer this? There's another poster on here, Orange I believe, that used Durga/501x axles to use Losi rims... You can try those if Tamiya parts are hard to come by.

Does shotgun style batteries fit? What about soldered bar type batteries?

The chassis was originally designed for "shotgun" style batteries. With the stock chassis, you can cram side-by-side I believe, but with graphite chassis like the one from 3Racing, you must be VERY careful not to short out side-by-sides if your battery bars are exposed like on mine for the B44. Mine are exposed because i use the equalizer tray on it.

Since the packs for my B44 are exposed and saddle, I just ended up buying 3 more shotgun style packs and just left it like that. Just discharge the pack down to 6.0V (assuming you are using NiMH technology) and you should be fine... NiMH aren't really memory prone but they do develop a "personality" over time...

Planning on running a novak havok 8.5 brushless. How well do you think the drivetrain will hold up?

I think it will hold up well. Take note that Tamiya included ALOT of shims in the kit for a reason. The number of shims it takes to properly mesh gears is merely a suggestion. Each DF-03MS units are probably unique.

My experience, just shim it until it's fairly tight. Run a single pack through it on your bench. Take the drive train apart and see if the gears have seated correctly. If you don't see too much play in the meshing, you're good to go. I recommend running it on your bench so that your motor won't be seeing an extra load if your car is on the ground/dirt/floor and have to propel itself...
tom_chang79 is offline  
Old 01-10-2009, 08:01 PM
  #285  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
bender's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 1,504
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Kyosho wheels will fit but their offset is different. I think from memory this makes the back of the car too wide for sanctioned meetings - the front is ok though. A picture of my old car is attached which has Kyosho rims mounted.

The B4 spur/pad method is the easiest way to use 48 pitch gears, but you can also get a Kawada adaptor which allows you to use any pan-car type spur gear because it uses those little slipper pegs inside the gear (similar to a Losi XXX4). Whilst more expensive and fiddly than the B4 method, it does mean you can use smaller spuer gears like 75, 72 etc (or even 64 pitch gears if you wanted to).

As for the shocks, I have a DF03-MS and although the shocks are very good quality I still dont think they are that good for racing as they are designed like touring car shocks - which means they have a lot of re-bound which is hard to get rid of. The 501X shocks are much better, in fact they're one of the best off-road shocks you can get - better than AE or Losi shocks.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya DF-03 type-dark-impact003.jpg  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
Kawada DI 48dp adaptor.pdf (98.0 KB, 310 views)
bender is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.