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Old 07-09-2008, 08:18 AM   #16
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I wanna bet it's your shocks are too light and your rubbin the face of the jump. Common issue.
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Old 07-09-2008, 08:55 AM   #17
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Hey Wheezy,

Try running heavier shock oil up front, Last time I was there I was running 40wt in the front and didnt have a problem with the jump your talking about. I am not sure what the internal tamyia gear ratio comes out to be but I ran 81/16 with a 5.5 in my B44 and it worked really good and the motor was warm after 5 min.

I should be out there on Sunday.
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Old 07-09-2008, 11:46 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
The Yokomo and Tamiya are not very good rough track cars.

Did you read it from a magazine?
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Old 07-09-2008, 12:16 PM   #19
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Did you read it from a magazine?
Actually I did, and I see them when I race. Here in the US we dont have super smooth astroturf, we have blown out 8th scale tracks (at least in California).

What type of track do you race on in Finland?
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Old 07-09-2008, 12:39 PM   #20
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What type of track do you race on in Finland?
Clay, smooth and blown out. My findings are that on a smooth track 501x is not as nimble as BJ4/B44 especially out of the corners. On a rough track 501x gains from the superior grip and/or suspension.
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Old 07-09-2008, 12:43 PM   #21
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That's pretty odd, as I've seen the Yokomo, Tamiya and XXX4 struggle on rough tracks but on smoother ones they fly.
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Old 07-09-2008, 01:33 PM   #22
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Seriously, ANY of these cars is capable of winning on any surface.

I'll take a car that's dialed over a car that isn't any day... obviously.

I race OCRC only... if I took my car somewhere else to race I wouldn't have a clue as what to change to make the car work in different conditions.

All of them are SO adjustable these days that I think a true high level engineer and an expert level driver could make the playing field pretty level on any surface.

Agreed that a two cars setup perfectly for certain conditions that one COULD be better suited to rough / smooth. I'd say it would come down to driver more than car though. Which reminds me... damn I can't wait to be able to clear that table! AT LEAST .2 seconds per lap!
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Old 07-09-2008, 01:40 PM   #23
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a wise factory driver always told me that you cant change the whole car for one jump.. that is the theory i try to stick with. imo
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Old 07-09-2008, 03:23 PM   #24
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That is indeed very wise info.

BUT, I want to at least know WHAT to change for that one jump!
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Old 07-09-2008, 03:44 PM   #25
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Stiffen up the oil, smaller pistons, etc. It will enable the car to pop off the jump instead of soak it up, but you will give up handling elsewhere.
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Old 07-10-2008, 09:04 AM   #26
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Some great info guys. Made me wonder about my suspension setup on my BJ4WE on the doubles/triples that I can't seem to clear. I'm going to try some stiffer springs...

Tamiya 501x cars are awesome cars. I was considering to buy one before I bought my BJ4WE...

wheezy, I also go to OCRC, I hope to see you and your 501x there!
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Old 07-10-2008, 11:17 AM   #27
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K King is right. You don't have enough pack in your suspension to get off the jump face.

You always have to ask yourself when your tuning for the track. Do I need to gain time on that part of the track to compete, or will I give up time in other places.
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Old 07-10-2008, 11:42 AM   #28
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Listen to King. He has a good amount of knowledge. If he has a question he knows who to talk to (me). I get calls all the time from him. Mostly motor and battery questions.

It seems like everyone is giving you the same answers. Take them to heart. I would also pay attention on how you are applying the throttle on that jump. With all the camber change in the turn you have to use a certain line for your car. I've tried it a couple ways and they all were extremely different.

Don't listen to "that's a tamiya for you." See if you can find a Josh Neuman setup. He has done well with the car. Do whatever he tells you. He is an awesome driver.
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Old 07-10-2008, 11:52 AM   #29
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Another area to examine would be rear diff tightness.

Going up the jump, most of your weight is shifted to the rear AND you are applying a huge amount of throttle. This is a recipe for losing traction and thus acceleration IF your rear diff is too loose.

If it is easy to tighten up the rear diff, you should be able to test the theory at the track rather quickly.
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Old 07-10-2008, 12:17 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haulin79 View Post
Another area to examine would be rear diff tightness.

Going up the jump, most of your weight is shifted to the rear AND you are applying a huge amount of throttle. This is a recipe for losing traction and thus acceleration IF your rear diff is too loose.

If it is easy to tighten up the rear diff, you should be able to test the theory at the track rather quickly.
Good point. Have K King check that.
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