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Old 09-23-2003, 09:14 PM   #136
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PTP,

The Nova version of the P5 is the best hands down. You are very correct when you say not to get a knock off like the rex. Nova always saves a little extra for their engines with their name on them. But with Ernie the a-hole involved that is also a very expensive engine that cost as much as some mod engines in wich it can't keep up with. That engine used to be about $225 now sky's the limit
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Old 09-24-2003, 02:25 PM   #137
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Thanks for all the great input -
I decided to go with the Novarossi Rex P5. I got it from Nitrohouse for about $390 or so - (not exactly sure)

They said they are familiar with the bearing problem, and this is a new batch of motors.

At any rate - you grab the dice and take a chance. At worst I break it down and change the bearing, at best I am probably getting a really strong motor.

This MBX should kick butt - -

Does anyone know of MBX building tips??
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Old 09-25-2003, 12:55 AM   #138
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i certainly hope your wrong about that price

i have the true novarossi p5 its part # rx 21 p5 and i felt like i had spent too much when i paid $280

the RX part # is because of the block (that hopefully doesnt have the bearing problem) the older version was RN

kingzj i thought the same thing that the true novarossi engines were the creme of the crop as far as nova based engines but when i posted it i got a ton of replies stating the engines were all identical rex nova and top its nice to see i wasnt alone in my belief
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Old 09-25-2003, 01:43 AM   #139
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THe engine cases aren't even the same so that should tell you something righ their. It is well know that novarossi does this if they didn't they would never sell any engines because mugen/rex is so popular.
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Old 10-11-2003, 11:53 AM   #140
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Where can I get the Nova (purple head) engine? Nitrohouse had the Rex version.
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Old 10-11-2003, 08:17 PM   #141
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try EBAY
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Old 10-12-2003, 08:30 AM   #142
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I am following up on a previous post. I've put about a gallon through the P5 - here are the results:

Break in - this was not for the faint-heared: I broke this in at Wide Open Throttle - BUT - I kept in lean at about 150 degrees for two tanks. It was really spitting gas but and not really really tach-ing that high. Thats the secret - WIDE OPEN THROTTLE!! I took to air filter off to watch the fuel spray into into the carb! (I had the motor mounted in the car and it securely mounted in blocks. - - The inside of my garage is lightly covered in 'Pam' now!!) The thing is - if you keep the mix way lean, you will not get the RPM's - it really didnt run all that fast.

I cooled it off and did it again with two more tanks but leaned it out to up the temperature to about 225 degrees - but never over 250!. The RPM were up, but it sounded fine. There was oil spray everywhere! I had to put a sheet down on the foor around my workbench to catch the spray.

Then I ran the car on the road: I leaned it out it bit more to run reliably but at about 200 degrees. I darted the car around for a while, 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle. 3/4 throttle and finally lean and WOT! All the while I insured the temps never got over 225.

Plug - OS A3, fuel - ODonnel 30%

Now - the motor rocks! I broke it in fast, and it is fast running. Above all - it runs cool! I race it on the parking lot - 180 degrees. Raced on the dirt track - 210 degrees. From a standing idle to screaming it takes about 3/4 second or less. The throttle is an on/off switch.

I am convinced that is is the way to have a fast motor - break it in fast - but easy and cool. Slowly-Slowly lean it out as it becomes looser and piston and sleeve wear-in.

I had to use a screwdriver to spin the flywheel past the compression point so the starter box would bump it. I also had to put a blow dryer on the cylinder to heat it up.

Comments / Questions??
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Old 10-12-2003, 05:14 PM   #143
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you kept it way lean? You mean way rich? lol
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Old 10-12-2003, 06:24 PM   #144
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..that's what RB's way of breaking engines......but in the end though.....it would be safer to use a brand new conrod......you can use the old (the one used for breaking in ) after a couple of tanks or so. I've seen people doing it with on road JP engines and it does work.
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Old 10-12-2003, 09:11 PM   #145
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If you want and engine to last the best method I have found is the heat cycle method. Also always pre-heat your engine with a hairdryer or heat gun to like 200 degree's this will save your conrod and make starting much eaiser.
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Old 10-12-2003, 10:12 PM   #146
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Well since alot of you guys wanna know is a WS7II or P5 better. I can help you guys out. I have both . If I had choose just one motor to keep it would be the P5. Now for the reasons.
The P5 does have more torque. To be honest the top speed of the motors is about the same. But my P5 may be just a tad bit faster on the top. I may get heat for saying that from people that say WS7II has killer top end. Well do the guys that say that have both motors to compare side to side? I do
Don't get me wrong you can't go wrong with either motor. On a race track the WS7II is a very good engine as the power band is much smoother with no sudden hits of power which makes it a easy engine to put the power down on the ground. As a side note I did play with the clutch springs on the WS7. I put the Mugen 1.1 springs in and it did help the bottom end but the P5 will still leave it off the line.
The above is my opinion and observations so take it as so, and don't bite my head off if you don't like what you read
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Old 10-13-2003, 12:02 AM   #147
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I have the blue-head REX P5, and have never had any leaky bearing issues with it. Idled one tank when I got it, then ran it the rest of the afternoon. It's on its 4th gallon now and still looks good after a few breakdown inspections. Launches my XR Works like no tomorrow, and after I get my MBX5 later this fall it's going right in there.
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Old 10-13-2003, 12:08 AM   #148
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Picco is still the best
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Old 10-13-2003, 07:26 PM   #149
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trying to find a novarossi purple head p5 will be tough check with dealers that are tight with trinity because trinity is the only importer

i agree break em in fast and they will be fast

i take em out the box put em in the car turn the radio throttle epa to 1/2 throttle and tune them to 200F i ran 2 tanks like that then took it to the track opened the throttle to 100% temp went up to 230F aprox and i won the race that day

eventually after some more tuning ive found it runs really good around 260F and has about 3 gallons through it and i still have trouble starting it when the engine is cold very tight compression

i believe if you break them in too slowly and cold you run a much higher risk of conrod failure

eventually when my engine loosens up some more i think it will be even faster
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Old 10-13-2003, 07:33 PM   #150
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Tower has the Trinity/Nova purple head P5 in stock for $310. Not sure if that's good or bad for the P5, though, since I've never really looked. I do know I've seen it for $360 in other places, though.

The purple head P5 is the one that has less problems, right? I want a P5 as my next engine, but I don't want one if I'm just going to have bearing and carb problems with it...

PTP, did the P5 drop right into your X5? I could swear someone said one of the two P5's(Nova or Rex...purple or blue head) didn't fit in the X5 right...
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