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Old 06-30-2008, 12:37 PM   #1
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Default Breaking In my Brushed Motor

I just bought a Trinity P2K2 to race and it has nwe brushes and the comm was professionally cut and the motor was tuned. But I have a couple questions about breaking in my motor. I heard that you put it on 3 volts for a couple of minutes but I don't know what to use that will give me 3 volts besides 2 AA batteries. So what is a good way to break the motor in? I live in SoCal where it is very hot and I heard that if you put 2 ice cubes on the motor it will run cooler. Is that true and is there anything I should avoid when I put the ice cubes on the motor? I have a Duratax Piranha digital charger if that is any help, but that doesn't break in motors like the AE Pulsar.

thanks for all the help.

-Chris
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Old 06-30-2008, 02:15 PM   #2
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and how do I solder my motor leads to the motor?

Because the brushes are connected to the 2 tabs on the right of the motor if you look at it from where the picture on the motor. So the only 2 sides t put the leads are on the 2 keft sides. But I thought that you aren't support to solder 2 wires from the same side.

The 2 free wires are by the springs.
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Old 06-30-2008, 02:19 PM   #3
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I just bought a Trinity P2K2 to race and it has nwe brushes and the comm was professionally cut and the motor was tuned. But I have a couple questions about breaking in my motor. I heard that you put it on 3 volts for a couple of minutes but I don't know what to use that will give me 3 volts besides 2 AA batteries. So what is a good way to break the motor in? I live in SoCal where it is very hot and I heard that if you put 2 ice cubes on the motor it will run cooler. Is that true and is there anything I should avoid when I put the ice cubes on the motor? I have a Duratax Piranha digital charger if that is any help, but that doesn't break in motors like the AE Pulsar.

thanks for all the help.

-Chris
chris,
the ice cube trick i have heard of but i have never seen it done before.
as for break in methods...i break the motors in at 2 volts for 200 seconds.

i know your charger wont do it.i wouldnt recremend using like AA batteries to do it.see if you can hook up with like a fellow racer who has say a turbo 30/35/lrp pulsar or anything that can break in a motor...

i also use to break my motors in a break in stand and a motor fan for the end-bell.

hope this info helps.

matt
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Old 06-30-2008, 02:22 PM   #4
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and how do I solder my motor leads to the motor?

Because the brushes are connected to the 2 tabs on the right of the motor if you look at it from where the picture on the motor. So the only 2 sides t put the leads are on the 2 keft sides. But I thought that you aren't support to solder 2 wires from the same side.

The 2 free wires are by the springs.
chris,
i soldier my wires direct....as long as you use the positive sode and the negative side it wont matter which side they go on.i would if i were you just snip the wires off and soldier direct.this will insure you get good direct conection.....might even notice a difference in the power of the motor to.
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Old 06-30-2008, 02:40 PM   #5
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what do you mean by soldering direct? You mean with no connecotrs. I use this old type of Deans that has 4 little wires. 3 of the left and 1 on the right.

But I don't see a negative, only a postive.

I will be going to an pretty much all nitro track tomorrow. So I don't think anyone will have a nice charger like that and even if they do I bet they wont let me use it because they dont even know me!

I was thinking of using my old Piranha 1400 nicad pack that has like no charge in it and use that. Or I was thinking to use a 2000 nicad and hook it up to the esc and take the motor out of the4 car and very gently move it.
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Old 06-30-2008, 04:08 PM   #6
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I can't be bothered making up special packs etc for breaking in my motors, so I just fix the motor shaft to my electric drill. Just hold the motor and crank that baby for a few minutes.
The plus of this, is that you get NO arcing as the motor doesn't have any power to it.
Just make sure your rotating it in the right direction.
Don't know if this is a good idea or not, but then, I don't play with rediculously expensive motors anyway
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Old 06-30-2008, 04:34 PM   #7
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I did that. I started slow then went faster. The only problem is that I think you need vp;tage going into the motor to break it in
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Old 06-30-2008, 04:37 PM   #8
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what do you mean by soldering direct? You mean with no connecotrs. I use this old type of Deans that has 4 little wires. 3 of the left and 1 on the right.

But I don't see a negative, only a postive.

I will be going to an pretty much all nitro track tomorrow. So I don't think anyone will have a nice charger like that and even if they do I bet they wont let me use it because they dont even know me!

I was thinking of using my old Piranha 1400 nicad pack that has like no charge in it and use that. Or I was thinking to use a 2000 nicad and hook it up to the esc and take the motor out of the4 car and very gently move it.
yea i meen i dont use no connectors...im not familar with the esc..but normally esc will only have 3 or 4 wires...2 wires to the motor and 2 wires to the battery....the esc that has 3 wire is normally likea motor leads positive and negative-and a negative battery lead..the positive battery leave splices off the positive motor lead.

as far as just seing the positive thats normal...the spot you see the plus...thats the positive side..the other side is negative...

any other problems lmk
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Old 06-30-2008, 04:40 PM   #9
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chris_rc

you have a pm
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Old 06-30-2008, 08:26 PM   #10
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ok, so any other opinion on how to break the motor in? I got the leads soldered on.
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Old 07-01-2008, 09:31 AM   #11
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Poor man method - run the motor in the car with the wheels off the ground at 1/4 throttle for a minute or so. Watch the brushes - if they spark a lot at first, keep going until the sparks settle down. That's a sign that the brushes are seated.

BTW, P2K2 motors need to be geared correctly, if you overgear they get hot quickly. I've had and seen several that the magnets came unglued and fell out of the can onto the armature after getting too hot.
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Old 07-01-2008, 04:07 PM   #12
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So what would be a good gearing for them. I have a 23t pinion gear in now.
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Old 07-02-2008, 09:03 AM   #13
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Are you running it in your MF2? If so I'd suggest 20/88 as a starting point. I ran a 21T the day the last P2K2 dropped the magnets but gearing depends on the size of your track.
Go up one tooth at a time until your motor is too hot to comfortably hold your finger on for 3-5 seconds after a 5 min run. That's when you're too hot. Motor temp and performance depend also on how clean your motor comm and bushings are, wheel and tranny bearings spinning free etc.
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Old 07-02-2008, 11:31 AM   #14
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I am running it on my MF2. It will be a short electric only indoor track. Here is the link, ocrcraceway.com . 23t got a tad hot after about 3 or 4 laps on this bigger 1/8 course. It could of got hotter but on the straightaways I wasn't flooring it. But on the track that I will run, there is only 1 small straightaway.

My brushes were just cut and my comm was just cut on a lathe.
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