B-Fast RC Performance Diff Parts for LOSI AND ASSOCIATED
#31
#32
So like it will give my truck more traction getting out of turns and would be better overall? I think I might pick the Pro Racer kit just to try it out to see what you guys are raving about.
#33
Its all about CONSISTENCY. A super smooth diff, that lasts, will do its part.
#34
I just bought the bfastRC Pro Driver Kit. I really hope this helps me when racing. I will give you guys a review once it comes. Does anyone know where they are located and when it will arrive in California?
#35
Your Pro driver's kit will be shipped tomorrow, the 5th.
We are located in N.E. Ohio, I would estimate you should have it wed or Thurs.
Thanks again
Fred B.
B-FAST R/C
#36
ok, thanks.
#38
USPS will have them today.
Looking forward to your feedback.
Thanks again Brian
Fred B.
Looking forward to your feedback.
Thanks again Brian
Fred B.
#40
Here's an excellent "how-to" that was posted on the Hot Bodies D4 thread by DustinR... He covers the diff AND slipper settings which are both equally important in setup. I don't think he'll mind that I reposted it since he posted it for people to learn from. But he's dead on... he just took the time to explain everything.
OK people:
There seems to be much talk and confusion about the diffs and drivetrain in relation to the slipper. Especially in 4wd. Let me try to clear up some of that.
1st of all you must have your slipper adjusted correctly both for your car to handle properly and to keep from destroying the drivtrain. If your slipper is to tight you WILL strip out the ring and pinion gears in the tranny cases. Your diffs will last a long time without being gritty if your slipper is adjusted correctly as well. If the slipper is to tight the diffs will slip instead of the slipper scaring the balls and rings in the diff creating the diff grit.
2nd I adjust the diffs to “touch” till I like what they feel like. For me I always build the diff and when tightening, I tighten it a little at a time when the rings come into contact with the balls. Tighten a little, Work the diff a little. This will help keep you from tightening the diff onto the grease to the point that you like the feel, and then the grease moves when you run the car and you have a very loose diff. I run tighten the rear diff till I can spin the wheel hard with my hand and no tire roll in the diff when I release. Then tighten it about 1/4 of a turn more. Diff should still feel smooth. To tighten the diff like this you must have the drivetrain stationary as often when you try to spin the diff the entire driveline moves The problem I have found is that the spring tolerances can be off a little every time so saying "tighten all the way down and back off 3/4 of a turn" is not always the same spot. I run the front diff a little tighter than the process I just described for the rear.
3rd Now for the slipper. This is very important to get the slipper adjusted right both for the performance of the car and the longevity of the drivetrain. What I do is with the body off, put the car on the racing surface and with your hand push the top decks down untill the chassis hits the ground. Then give a SHORT blip of the throttle. You should be able to tell what is slipping. Diff will bark and the slipper will have a fainter high pitch sound. You want the slipper to slip and never hear the diff. I adjust the slipper to the point where the wheels do not turn and the slipper slips when short blip of throttle is applied when holding the chassis
NOTE: Do not lay on the throttle as this is demanding on the electronics and can fry motors, speedoes, ect. Short blip and that is all.
NOTE: Better to have the slipper slip in excess in a test run and need to tighten it little by little than to tight and mess up gears and diffs.
NOTE: Do not build new diffs or adjust slipper and race for the having not driven the car. Upon changing the settings of the diff or slipper have some time in practice to be able to adjust them. Nothing worse than right before the start of the 1st qual telling your pit man to “crank it down” just to make a club race
So everyone understands what the slipper does here is a short explanation. With the fast motors and high traction racing conditions we put these poor cars through: the parts are not strong enough to take that abuse. Imagine the drive train spinning in the air and all the sudden landing, spooling up, and then hard acceleration. This is what destroys the ring and pinion gear and grits diffs. Upon landing the slipper slips, relieving the stress put upon the drive train. A slightly looser slipper will much prolong drivetrain parts and can make the car slightly easier to drive since it is not instantly darting upon landing-acceleration.
I have had my D4 since Feb of this year and it has been raced at least once a week and sometimes twice a week. I have yet to strip a ring and pinion gear. I have cleaned and put new grease in the diffs twice and they still do not feel gritty in the least.
If anyone has any questions regarding this info, wants to refute, of just plain flame, reply as needed.
There seems to be much talk and confusion about the diffs and drivetrain in relation to the slipper. Especially in 4wd. Let me try to clear up some of that.
1st of all you must have your slipper adjusted correctly both for your car to handle properly and to keep from destroying the drivtrain. If your slipper is to tight you WILL strip out the ring and pinion gears in the tranny cases. Your diffs will last a long time without being gritty if your slipper is adjusted correctly as well. If the slipper is to tight the diffs will slip instead of the slipper scaring the balls and rings in the diff creating the diff grit.
2nd I adjust the diffs to “touch” till I like what they feel like. For me I always build the diff and when tightening, I tighten it a little at a time when the rings come into contact with the balls. Tighten a little, Work the diff a little. This will help keep you from tightening the diff onto the grease to the point that you like the feel, and then the grease moves when you run the car and you have a very loose diff. I run tighten the rear diff till I can spin the wheel hard with my hand and no tire roll in the diff when I release. Then tighten it about 1/4 of a turn more. Diff should still feel smooth. To tighten the diff like this you must have the drivetrain stationary as often when you try to spin the diff the entire driveline moves The problem I have found is that the spring tolerances can be off a little every time so saying "tighten all the way down and back off 3/4 of a turn" is not always the same spot. I run the front diff a little tighter than the process I just described for the rear.
3rd Now for the slipper. This is very important to get the slipper adjusted right both for the performance of the car and the longevity of the drivetrain. What I do is with the body off, put the car on the racing surface and with your hand push the top decks down untill the chassis hits the ground. Then give a SHORT blip of the throttle. You should be able to tell what is slipping. Diff will bark and the slipper will have a fainter high pitch sound. You want the slipper to slip and never hear the diff. I adjust the slipper to the point where the wheels do not turn and the slipper slips when short blip of throttle is applied when holding the chassis
NOTE: Do not lay on the throttle as this is demanding on the electronics and can fry motors, speedoes, ect. Short blip and that is all.
NOTE: Better to have the slipper slip in excess in a test run and need to tighten it little by little than to tight and mess up gears and diffs.
NOTE: Do not build new diffs or adjust slipper and race for the having not driven the car. Upon changing the settings of the diff or slipper have some time in practice to be able to adjust them. Nothing worse than right before the start of the 1st qual telling your pit man to “crank it down” just to make a club race
So everyone understands what the slipper does here is a short explanation. With the fast motors and high traction racing conditions we put these poor cars through: the parts are not strong enough to take that abuse. Imagine the drive train spinning in the air and all the sudden landing, spooling up, and then hard acceleration. This is what destroys the ring and pinion gear and grits diffs. Upon landing the slipper slips, relieving the stress put upon the drive train. A slightly looser slipper will much prolong drivetrain parts and can make the car slightly easier to drive since it is not instantly darting upon landing-acceleration.
I have had my D4 since Feb of this year and it has been raced at least once a week and sometimes twice a week. I have yet to strip a ring and pinion gear. I have cleaned and put new grease in the diffs twice and they still do not feel gritty in the least.
If anyone has any questions regarding this info, wants to refute, of just plain flame, reply as needed.
#41
I wish I had that info a few years earlier!! Great stuff, thanks Scott
#42
I got the Pro drivers kit!!!!! I will install them and tell everyone how they are.
#44
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
I received my diffs today and have to say that Im highly impressed with the quality of all the parts in the kits, definately the work of a true machinist. Ill let everyone know how they are once there installed in all my cars but the way it looks is that B-Fast Performance Diffs will be in all my cars from now on!