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Old 07-13-2008, 09:37 PM   #16
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ok, a little update. I will have a Venom 3600 and 2 GP3300 6 cell packs and MAYBE a gp3700 6 cell matched pack. I will be using a Duratrx Onyx 230 charger that charges lipo, nimh, nicad, life, and li-lon. Will that be good or will I get blown away? I will get the comm cu and brushes cut before the race so it will be pretty fast. And with a stock 27t Trinity P2K2 motor, will it last a whole car with some 3300 packs?
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Old 07-14-2008, 12:12 AM   #17
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i dont know too much yet but there was a guy racing in the class with me that had a 3300 battery in his xxxt in the main and his battery dumped 2 laps from the finish. so i would say to not use the 3300s to race with.
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Old 07-14-2008, 12:30 AM   #18
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It depends on what condition the battery is in. I'm not sure a stock motor should burn through a 3300 mah pack in a five or six minute heat. Something sounds wrong there.

If you're worried about dumping, try using the battery packs you're worried about in a five or six minute practice session and see if you make it. That will tell you. Less internet bench racing, more practicing.
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Old 07-14-2008, 10:13 AM   #19
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GP 3300s have always been excellent batts when they are taken care of. I ran them last year in 4 wheel drive. That is the class that takes the most batt due to the intense abuse on the buggy, motor, and ESC. We ran three 5 minute heats and a 6 minute main and I never had a batt fail to finish strong. You cannot use an abused batt to race with.
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Old 07-15-2008, 11:05 AM   #20
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well maybe his was abused. i dont know. or he didnt get it charged good. all i know is that it didnt last and it cost him the race. i see something like that happen, ill learn from there mistakes before it becomes my mistake.
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Old 07-15-2008, 11:18 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by triggerman101 View Post
i dont know too much yet but there was a guy racing in the class with me that had a 3300 battery in his xxxt in the main and his battery dumped 2 laps from the finish. so i would say to not use the 3300s to race with.
Wow, then I wonder how all those guys still hoarding and using 3300s are getting by, let alone all the ones that used them for so many years???
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Old 07-15-2008, 11:19 AM   #22
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Best I can offer you is to give this a read: "R/C Racing 101: First Show"
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Old 07-15-2008, 01:16 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by rocket-mtrsprts View Post
Wow, then I wonder how all those guys still hoarding and using 3300s are getting by, let alone all the ones that used them for so many years???
old battery maybe? bad battery, didnt charge it good enough, needed cycled, mesh too tight, dont know. thats just what happened. he was doing good before it dumped.
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Old 07-15-2008, 01:40 PM   #24
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As a rookie who just started, I can tell you that before you can really worry about making sure your gear is good enough, you need to worry about driving skills. All the tweaking and tuning is for when you have a handle on your driving and need to start shaving seconds off your lap times. The basic setup with stock equipment is more than enough for a new driver to learn the ropes, in my opinion. I went whole hog after researching a bunch of stuff online and on the forums, upgrading my ESC and getting the recommended stock motor...but all I really needed was a good battery, the right tires for the track and someone to help coach me through the learning process of race driving. If you're racing, it's nice to have the spread spectrum radio so you don't worry about anyone being on your channel, which was happening to me...so that's an important one to do.

So my advice is, buddy up with an experienced driver or two at your track and pick their brains, watch them race and try to emulate their driving. Once you can get around the track without crashing due to driver error, then it's time to start making upgrades and tweaks! Just my two cents, after a couple of months.

Edit: Just read the battery dump item - I was able to run a Venom 3000mah nimh pack for five minute races, in my Slash...but as soon as I reached the main event (7 minutes), even with the battery freshly peak charged, I dumped with a minute left in the race. Live and learn - that was my "messing around" battery (my main racer is a T4), I put a 4200 in it for future racing.
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Old 07-15-2008, 01:42 PM   #25
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Quote:
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he was doing good before it dumped.
That's what they always say....
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Old 07-15-2008, 01:49 PM   #26
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Quote:
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It depends on what condition the battery is in. I'm not sure a stock motor should burn through a 3300 mah pack in a five or six minute heat. Something sounds wrong there.

If you're worried about dumping, try using the battery packs you're worried about in a five or six minute practice session and see if you make it. That will tell you. Less internet bench racing, more practicing.
Ya, I didnt think a 27t motor could go thru a fully charged GP3300 pack in 5 or 6 minutes. heck I used a halfway dead Radio Shack 2000 NiCad battery that had never been cycled on my car and it lasted for a good 10-20 minutes going half speed.
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Old 07-15-2008, 01:49 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdeselms View Post
As a rookie who just started, I can tell you that before you can really worry about making sure your gear is good enough, you need to worry about driving skills. All the tweaking and tuning is for when you have a handle on your driving and need to start shaving seconds off your lap times. The basic setup with stock equipment is more than enough for a new driver to learn the ropes, in my opinion. I went whole hog after researching a bunch of stuff online and on the forums, upgrading my ESC and getting the recommended stock motor...but all I really needed was a good battery, the right tires for the track and someone to help coach me through the learning process of race driving. If you're racing, it's nice to have the spread spectrum radio so you don't worry about anyone being on your channel, which was happening to me...so that's an important one to do.

So my advice is, buddy up with an experienced driver or two at your track and pick their brains, watch them race and try to emulate their driving. Once you can get around the track without crashing due to driver error, then it's time to start making upgrades and tweaks! Just my two cents, after a couple of months.

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It reminds me of what I told a guy a few months ago when he asked what it was going to take to keep up with me and I said, "less wrecks." He asked me what I meant by that, and I told him that I didn't consider it a good run unless I got through it completely unscathed, while he was lucky if he got in two consequtive laps without crashing into something or someone.
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Old 07-15-2008, 01:59 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stitchy View Post
It depends on what condition the battery is in. I'm not sure a stock motor should burn through a 3300 mah pack in a five or six minute heat. Something sounds wrong there.

If you're worried about dumping, try using the battery packs you're worried about in a five or six minute practice session and see if you make it. That will tell you. Less internet bench racing, more practicing.
Also gearing appropriately for a particular battery packs makes a difference too.
The phrase mAh stands for miliAmpHour and thus basically translates to the amount of time (Amp Hours) the battery will last. Back in the day when 1700s came along they lasted for a lot longer than the 1200s we were running, but required a taller gearing to get the power out of them. So it would be my guess that while the 3300s are a faster discharge pack, they also need to be geared down to make 6 or 7 minutes compared to a 4200 or larger pack.
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Old 07-15-2008, 02:05 PM   #29
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Batteries make a huge difference in stock motor racing. 4200-4700 mAh packs are awesome for stock/spec racing not just because their runtime is incredible, but the internal resistance is so much lower than the old 3300's. Going from 2.5 to 1.4 IR (or AR) adds so much more punch to the motor that it's instantly noticeable. Lipos have the same effect plus their extra volt gives higher top-end.
This past weekend one of my kids ran fresh Pro-Match 4600 enerG cells in a 19T 2wd buggy and had the fastest lap time of all classes except 1/8 nitro buggy. He loaned one of his packs to another racer who was surprised at the power difference over his stick packs. We run 7 min electric mains now so 3300's are no longer a viable option.
One suggestion though, don't buy the nice matched packs unless you have a discharge tray to level the cells. These new enrG cells are the worst I've seen yet for needing to be balanced if they sit in storage for more than 2 weeks. IMO the 3800's were far more stable than the 42-4700's
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Old 07-15-2008, 11:00 PM   #30
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This was a very good tread, I haven't seen a track yet... I'm researching chargers and batteries now... I'm looking at that Onyx by duratrax, and a spectrum radio... I can't wait to get to the track... alot of the racers at the track are nice folks... so I will try to get a race mentor when I get all of my goodies...
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