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Old 06-03-2008, 05:57 AM   #1
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Default Whats the key to a bullet-proof diff build in a B4?

Whats the trick to building a diff that lasts?

Whats the best options for:

Ball type
Grease
Ring Prep

Any other minutia that you learn as you go? Ive never owned a vehicle up until now long enough to need a rebuild
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:22 AM   #2
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Here's my process...I've used this on my 12th scale diffs, TC Diffs and offroad diffs for years. They are always smooth.

1. Sand your diff rings
a. Get a flat surface (setup board, glass, etc).
b. Get some 800 grit Sandpaper
c. Sand in a circular fashion (I do both sides of the rings
2. Clean Everything with motor spray (diff rings, bearings, outdrives, balls)
3. Build the thrust bearing and install it into the outdrive (I use AE black grease)
4. Drop the diff gear onto the outdrive
5. Put a dab of diff lube on the palm of your hand, then put your balls in your hand (diff balls that is) Roll the balls around your palm to coat them in lube.
6. Drop the balls one at a time into the diff gear.
7. Assemble the rest of the diff tightening slowly working the diff action as you tighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time till it's adjusted properly.
8. Run it in then re-adjust.

I typically use:
AE Black grease for the thrust bearing
Trinity Royal oil in the diff bearings
AE Silicone lube on the diff balls
Ceramic Diff/Thrust balls but will use carbide if they come in the kit.
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:50 AM   #3
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Default Diff

Just dont overtighten.It may feel loose but in the car it will be fine.Then just replace the thrust balls and plates and diff rings every 2 months depending on how much you run
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:53 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer34v View Post
Whats the trick to building a diff that lasts?

Whats the best options for:

Ball type
Grease
Ring Prep

Any other minutia that you learn as you go? Ive never owned a vehicle up until now long enough to need a rebuild
I would say it's more about how you set the diff and slipper up as opposed to building it (of course you have to build it correctly).


Build it as per manual. tighten it, Lock the out drives with two hex wrenchs and make sure the diff gear doesnt spin.

put diff in and tighten slipper, hold wheels and loosen diff till it slips and then tighten it a 1/8th turn then set slipper. dialed......

also tighten it a tiny bit after running a pack cause they loosen alittle

Learned that from Rob Betts ! My diff's last 3 months at a clip racing twice a week.
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Old 06-03-2008, 08:30 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by nhodd View Post
Just dont overtighten.It may feel loose but in the car it will be fine.Then just replace the thrust balls and plates and diff rings every 2 months depending on how much you run
Or you can just re-sand them.
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Old 06-03-2008, 12:55 PM   #6
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Thanks!!!
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Old 06-03-2008, 02:08 PM   #7
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I have built all of my associated diffs just as the book says. I agree with a light sanding on the necessary parts. Grease or lube with the kit grease and stealth lube and you should have no trouble.

The only difs that I have had go bad on the associated buggies are the ones that I constantly run on the street or where the traction is extra high. If I keep it on the dirt or on the track, I have had them last many over a year between rebuilds.
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Old 06-03-2008, 02:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer34v View Post
Whats the trick to building a diff that lasts?

Whats the best options for:

Ball type
Grease
Ring Prep

Any other minutia that you learn as you go? Ive never owned a vehicle up until now long enough to need a rebuild
Follow the Ae B-4 directions exactly, and make sure you have adjusted your slipper correctly ( not to tight).

you should expect good performance for quite a while if you just do that...
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Old 06-03-2008, 11:50 PM   #9
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Just build with clear grease for diff balls and rings and black grease for thrust assembly. then full tighten diff and back off 1/4 turn. Put back in tranny run a battery pack then readjust diff if needed.
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Old 06-04-2008, 11:57 AM   #10
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Just dont overtighten.It may feel loose but in the car it will be fine.Then just replace the thrust balls and plates and diff rings every 2 months depending on how much you run
I kind of disagree. I think that most people run their diffs on the loose side, fearing that they will overtighten them. With a tires on the car, you should not be able to spin the diff as if it were freewheeling, which a lot of people do. If you ever wondered why a b4-t4 feels unstable under power on higher-bite tracks, this is exactly the reason.

I usually run on a higher-bite track with a t4, and like OG mentioned, the indoor clay-type tracks tend to kill diffs. Racers want to take advantage of the bite, so they end up running both diff and slipper pretty tight. Even the diff is not barking, there will be a lot of stress on it, especially in sweeper turns. I also think that brushless motors are making us rebuild diffs more often. They have so much torque, even when you geaar them pretty tall.
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Old 06-04-2008, 12:18 PM   #11
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Not really.......... you don't want the diff any tighter than it needs to be without it "barking". You need a free diff to make the car/truck turn, the tighter it is, the more push you'll get, especially on high bite.
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