R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

I have a XXX-T with a broken battery retainer mount. The little bump that sticks up on the chassis brace, takes a body pin and holds the battery in place. So far, it appears that you MUST buy a chassis to get that brace. Does anyone know of a more "efficient" option? I don't need a whole chassis, and while $25 won't break the bank, it seems kinda rediculous to buy both to get one little part that should cost about $5.00. Anybody have a more viable option? Is there another way to mount the battery and keep in in place? I CA'd it back on, but the track layout I race on has a couple big jumps(great way to stretch 8th scale's legs, horrible on little electric 10th scales!) I know it'll break the first time I land wrong, so I'm trying to find a better way to keep the battery from flying out.

sport10

Hey, how has it been going? You should come over and race with us sometime again. Here is a link to a part that should work for you. It is for the XXX-CR buggy but should work on the truck too.

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...l?sfs=f167539b

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

Awesome! Thanks Man! We're gonna run 8th scale at B&T this weekend, but we'd like to come back out to Foley and run electric and 8th scale. I need to get some better motors and batteries, right now I have my old Matched B&T pack, and one of Buckshot's old ones(same thing, just no shoe goo, and it's been Wacked @ 10 amps!)

Those jumps in the new layout are HARD on the little trucks, so it's no wonder I broke mine in 7 minutes of practice...then it rained...

I talked to Brian, he said you guys are racing on the same weekend that B&T does to get more karts out to that big ass oval. That's cool, we'll have to come out there anyway, I've got a friend's TC3 late model with a 4.5 in it... might have to try that class again, but I need better batteries! I'm looking into li-po now. It'd make it allot easier to have one fat pack and just peak it off between runs...

frankiecmgt

iTrader: (77)

Or you could do what i did and just sand down the bump, put a screw and a nut to hold it and then use a thumb screw......see pic

sport10

Yea, I remember how hard the track was on 1/10 scale at the battle. You really have to downside the jump on the back strait. It might be a good idea to keep an extra T plate for the rear in your parts bin too. The track is hard on that part also. I have replaced most of my batteries with lipo also. I only have one NImh pack left for the X-5. I will be soon converting to lipo on it too.

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

Well, I have pretty much everything ready. Gonna borrow a brushless system to run in the next race. My tired old Chameleon just wasn't up to it.

Dave H

Suggest that you open up the hole in the battery bar some, make it a front to back slot. This will help prevent the nipple from getting sheared off when the chassis flexes. A very common XXX modification.

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

Good idea! I did the same thing for the mounting hole in the body of my 8ight. Thank you for the suggestion.