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Old 05-10-2008, 03:42 PM   #1
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how hot should an electric motor be getting? my son has 1 that gets so hot it will burn you when you touch it. we dropped form the stock 20t to a 16t pinion at the advise of other guys at the track when they say how hot his motor was getting. his ESC is getting warm but not hot and everyone told us that was working right. im clueless when it comes to these electrics as ive only ever run nitro myself. but i guess i need to learn so i can keep him racing.
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Old 05-10-2008, 04:12 PM   #2
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how hot should an electric motor be getting? my son has 1 that gets so hot it will burn you when you touch it. we dropped form the stock 20t to a 16t pinion at the advise of other guys at the track when they say how hot his motor was getting. his ESC is getting warm but not hot and everyone told us that was working right. im clueless when it comes to these electrics as ive only ever run nitro myself. but i guess i need to learn so i can keep him racing.
what motor is it and how many turns?
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Old 05-10-2008, 05:13 PM   #3
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Since you run nitro, I'm assuming you have a temp gun. Also assuming it's a brushed motor. 200F max. after 5-6 minutes. If it's over that, rebuild the motor, gear down or start looking for bad bearings or some other binding.
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Old 05-10-2008, 09:14 PM   #4
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what motor is it and how many turns?
not sure. a buddy of mine gave it to him used for free. all i know is its a black can trinity motor. it has Joel "Magic" Johnson on the can and something about championship motor. i looked it up and the only info i could find was that it was a good motor and it was made in the 90's.

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Since you run nitro, I'm assuming you have a temp gun. Also assuming it's a brushed motor. 200F max. after 5-6 minutes. If it's over that, rebuild the motor, gear down or start looking for bad bearings or some other binding.
yeah i have a temp gun. next time he runs it ill check it. i dont think it gets as hot as my .28 does cause at 240 or so on my .28 i get blisters from accidently touching it and i dont when i touch his motor but it is damn hot. I just wanted to be sure what was too hot and what was ok. ill be sure to check it next time with heat gun. thanks so much for the help. o and yes its a brushed motor.
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Old 05-12-2008, 03:59 PM   #5
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If you're geared appropriately according to your local experts, I'd suspect that you have something binding (dirty bearing?) or else your motor is really dirty and due for a comm cut. If you can look in the endbell and see anything besides shiny copper looking back you're due for a cleaning. Dirty motors run hot and weak.
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Old 05-12-2008, 04:34 PM   #6
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If you're geared appropriately according to your local experts, I'd suspect that you have something binding (dirty bearing?) or else your motor is really dirty and due for a comm cut. If you can look in the endbell and see anything besides shiny copper looking back you're due for a cleaning. Dirty motors run hot and weak.
ok ill check the motor out for cleaning. Ive checked the rest of the driveline and nothing binding or even dirty there. we clean our trucks after every use. old habit i guess. Ill take the end bell off and see what she looks like inside. again this was a used motor when he got it so we dont know anythign about it really. now when i take the endbell off do i have to worry about anything messing the "timing" up?


I also wanted to say thanks to everyone helping me understand these electrics a bit better for my son. It is really appreciated.
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Old 05-14-2008, 07:48 AM   #7
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If the motor is 19-27T it should have a notch in the can and matching tab on the endbell so the timing is fixed and can't be adjusted. If its a mod motor, check the timing before you take it apart. I'd suggest using a sharpie or a dab of paint to mark both the can and the endbell so you can line them back up - it's really easy to put the endbell on 180 degrees off causing the motor to run clockwise rather than counterclockwise (looking at the output shaft, not the endbell).

If the motor is getting hot it may also be that the timing is advanced too far, if so you'll want to set it back to 10-12 degrees to start with. If your endbell has multiple notches, use the one most closely lined up with the screw to set your timing to the marks on the can or label.
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Old 05-14-2008, 09:32 AM   #8
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That motor is way older then rebuildable locked timing. I suspect it is modified and if the wind is not marked on the armature there really is no way to know for certain what wind it is. An experienced motor builder could give a good guess though.

Motors in this time locked the timing by bending tabs over to hold the endbell in place.
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Old 05-15-2008, 08:35 AM   #9
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The description matches a modified motor that Trinity made years ago. We had a guy bring one into the track last Saturday. It was dirty, bad brushes, and the com was black. It pulled so many amps that it would barely move. I suspect that motor is in bad condition and that makes it heat up.

Cleaning, cut com, and re-oil bushings/bearings and then see what you have. If it is a mod you may still be over geared depending on what you are running it in.
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