Tekin R1 Pro for 4WD Offroad
07-14-2008, 08:38 AM
#46
Tech Regular
632 is even slower, you can try 448 but you may push your esc there
07-14-2008, 08:41 AM
#47
I didn't know if it would give me the torque (rip) I would want and still be able to gear it up for the speed.
OOps just realized this is not the R1 thread.
Hey sorry for the thread hi jacking I thought this was the tekin R1 in offroad thread. My Bad.
I will post this question in the tekin R1 Thread.
OOps just realized this is not the R1 thread.
Hey sorry for the thread hi jacking I thought this was the tekin R1 in offroad thread. My Bad.
I will post this question in the tekin R1 Thread.
Last edited by tdeal823; 07-14-2008 at 08:53 AM.
07-14-2008, 06:49 PM
#48
Tdeal: Don't sweat it, it's still a Tekin in a 4wd so it fits.
I did answer this post in the other thread. The 632 isn't going to fix your issue. The short version is that I believe you're under geared and best case scenario is to be patient and wait for the new rotor. The new rotor will provide you essenitally a 548 which will be a great 4wd motor.
Randy
I did answer this post in the other thread. The 632 isn't going to fix your issue. The short version is that I believe you're under geared and best case scenario is to be patient and wait for the new rotor. The new rotor will provide you essenitally a 548 which will be a great 4wd motor.
Randy
07-24-2008, 01:31 PM
#49
I am wondering if anybody has any setup's for the R1 Pro and a Redline 358 in a Losi XXX-4 G+. I have been running the 358 for a month or so with a Mamba ESC speed control and it has worked quite well, but I'm ready to go with the complete Tekin set-up. I am running the stock spur(92t). The tracks I run alot on are 1/8scale offroad and indoor offroad. Thanks for your help Guys!
-Jeremy
-Jeremy
07-27-2008, 11:18 AM
#50
does someone here have both a tekin pro and MMM? how do they compare to each other? i know the MMM is rated for higher volts but i hear you can do some mods and get the tekin to handle 6s.
07-27-2008, 01:51 PM
#51
Thanks for posting the pictures.
You're not going to get any air flow on the solder posts on that car with the posts faces inside. My first words of advice are to turn it 90's posts towards the front of the car. Next is to fashion a vent right in front of it. I personally used to run a duct right on top of it. I can see by the picture that you clearly "need" the undertray. That means you're going to find a way to get the cooler outside air in and out.
I know it won't look as pretty as it does now. I too am very picky on my wiring as you appear to be as well.
You're not going to get any air flow on the solder posts on that car with the posts faces inside. My first words of advice are to turn it 90's posts towards the front of the car. Next is to fashion a vent right in front of it. I personally used to run a duct right on top of it. I can see by the picture that you clearly "need" the undertray. That means you're going to find a way to get the cooler outside air in and out.
I know it won't look as pretty as it does now. I too am very picky on my wiring as you appear to be as well.
Last edited by Key; 02-16-2009 at 10:09 AM.
07-27-2008, 08:43 PM
#52
Yes facing it towards the front in your ZX5 keeps it away from getting heat from the motor. If the posts face the motor only about 30% of the posts will get air flow. Those solder posts are the "heatsink" for the R1. I know it won't look as cool, but the radiant heat between them is a lot.
I also recomend cutting out a slot in the body to allow cool air to flow onto the solder posts. The wires can also act as a heatsink of sorts but the benefit is minimal.
I'm working on a new wheeler and I'll posts pictures when I'm done with it. I've switched to Losi's and have a XXX4 to finish up.
On my previous car(Yokomo MR4bx) I had the esc on the opposite side of the chassis faced forward. I had fashioned small ducts that routed air right onto the solder posts. I used some scap lexan. I saw 1-2 led's cooler then without them.
Using 2 cap's can also help cool the unit. Since the current crop of wheeler encapsules the electronics in a cocoon of lexan and carbon fiber it's hard to manage heat. So try to manage airflow. You not only have to get cool air in,but warm air out.
I'll post pictures of my XXX4. I've been told that this car and body poses some "interesting" electronic issues.
Oh yeah, nice car too!
I also recomend cutting out a slot in the body to allow cool air to flow onto the solder posts. The wires can also act as a heatsink of sorts but the benefit is minimal.
I'm working on a new wheeler and I'll posts pictures when I'm done with it. I've switched to Losi's and have a XXX4 to finish up.
On my previous car(Yokomo MR4bx) I had the esc on the opposite side of the chassis faced forward. I had fashioned small ducts that routed air right onto the solder posts. I used some scap lexan. I saw 1-2 led's cooler then without them.
Using 2 cap's can also help cool the unit. Since the current crop of wheeler encapsules the electronics in a cocoon of lexan and carbon fiber it's hard to manage heat. So try to manage airflow. You not only have to get cool air in,but warm air out.
I'll post pictures of my XXX4. I've been told that this car and body poses some "interesting" electronic issues.
Oh yeah, nice car too!
07-28-2008, 07:01 PM
#53
Yes facing it towards the front in your ZX5 keeps it away from getting heat from the motor. If the posts face the motor only about 30% of the posts will get air flow. Those solder posts are the "heatsink" for the R1. I know it won't look as cool, but the radiant heat between them is a lot.
I also recomend cutting out a slot in the body to allow cool air to flow onto the solder posts. The wires can also act as a heatsink of sorts but the benefit is minimal.
I'm working on a new wheeler and I'll posts pictures when I'm done with it. I've switched to Losi's and have a XXX4 to finish up.
On my previous car(Yokomo MR4bx) I had the esc on the opposite side of the chassis faced forward. I had fashioned small ducts that routed air right onto the solder posts. I used some scap lexan. I saw 1-2 led's cooler then without them.
Using 2 cap's can also help cool the unit. Since the current crop of wheeler encapsules the electronics in a cocoon of lexan and carbon fiber it's hard to manage heat. So try to manage airflow. You not only have to get cool air in,but warm air out.
I'll post pictures of my XXX4. I've been told that this car and body poses some "interesting" electronic issues.
Oh yeah, nice car too!
I also recomend cutting out a slot in the body to allow cool air to flow onto the solder posts. The wires can also act as a heatsink of sorts but the benefit is minimal.
I'm working on a new wheeler and I'll posts pictures when I'm done with it. I've switched to Losi's and have a XXX4 to finish up.
On my previous car(Yokomo MR4bx) I had the esc on the opposite side of the chassis faced forward. I had fashioned small ducts that routed air right onto the solder posts. I used some scap lexan. I saw 1-2 led's cooler then without them.
Using 2 cap's can also help cool the unit. Since the current crop of wheeler encapsules the electronics in a cocoon of lexan and carbon fiber it's hard to manage heat. So try to manage airflow. You not only have to get cool air in,but warm air out.
I'll post pictures of my XXX4. I've been told that this car and body poses some "interesting" electronic issues.
Oh yeah, nice car too!
Can I just use one bigger cap instead of two small ones or am I good to go with two? If a big one would suffice what cap would you recommend?
Looking at my ZX-5 lid I also figured where the small intakes (holes) will go. One on the front left of the shell where the slight front/mid hump is located and the other is right on the top infront of the rear motor mount. As you had mentioned they will have holes on the opposite ends for warm air outtake.
BTW - the car drives as nice as it looks
I would recommend looking into a ZX-5 SP or FS instead of a XXX4. The choice is like night and day 
Last edited by Key; 02-16-2009 at 10:09 AM.
07-28-2008, 09:03 PM
#54
Tech Addict
Alot of people think the 362 is too much motor and I know I
was gonna post pics of my 501x Tekin project on Tekin's Website,
But I'll just do it here. Note I have not officially raced this chassis yet.
I wont be able to til this winter when I'll debut it.
Anyhow it fits Randy because like you said it's a 4wd off-road thread.
Note I didnt solder this, I got someone to solder it for me about a month ago.
It powered up and worked flawlessly.
I'm just excited about when I get to actually use it.
was gonna post pics of my 501x Tekin project on Tekin's Website,
But I'll just do it here. Note I have not officially raced this chassis yet.
I wont be able to til this winter when I'll debut it.
Anyhow it fits Randy because like you said it's a 4wd off-road thread.
Note I didnt solder this, I got someone to solder it for me about a month ago.
It powered up and worked flawlessly.
I'm just excited about when I get to actually use it.
07-29-2008, 09:45 PM
#55
I do like the Kyosho car although I wasn't impressed with the first ZX5 chassis. I've recenlty gotten away from AE and my Yokomo. My local track that was Losi diehard have all changed to AE. I like to be different. I've been looking at the K cars but that Tamiya just looks so damned sexy!
We'll see. The XXX4 car is just a "loaner" for me. I won't run it if it's not fast enough or doesn't suit me.
Don't be afraid to add a duct to the underside of the body to direct airflow onto the esc...works better then one would think...
We'll see. The XXX4 car is just a "loaner" for me. I won't run it if it's not fast enough or doesn't suit me.
Don't be afraid to add a duct to the underside of the body to direct airflow onto the esc...works better then one would think...
07-30-2008, 03:27 PM
#56
Tech Regular
randy get the sp me personaly its hands down the best handleing 4x4 out there. i own an sp and the hotbodies d4 wich is also a greatg ride but the sp is awsome. there is a real nice hotbodies on ebay with a tekin system already in it looks nice.
07-31-2008, 07:02 AM
#58
I do like the Kyosho car although I wasn't impressed with the first ZX5 chassis. I've recenlty gotten away from AE and my Yokomo. My local track that was Losi diehard have all changed to AE. I like to be different. I've been looking at the K cars but that Tamiya just looks so damned sexy!
We'll see. The XXX4 car is just a "loaner" for me. I won't run it if it's not fast enough or doesn't suit me.
Don't be afraid to add a duct to the underside of the body to direct airflow onto the esc...works better then one would think...
We'll see. The XXX4 car is just a "loaner" for me. I won't run it if it's not fast enough or doesn't suit me.
Don't be afraid to add a duct to the underside of the body to direct airflow onto the esc...works better then one would think...
If I didn't have the SP I would probably get the Tamiya.If I add a duct to the underside would that not attract dirt from underneath and make a mess on the insides?
07-31-2008, 09:26 AM
#59
Yeah the duct certainly can add dirt to the chassis. I suppose you could add a screen or mesh. I don't run on a very dirty track. Lately our traction has been way more then we're used to since they've been adding syrup to the track lately. So we're getting a lot more grip and a lot more load so heat's becoming an issue for us.
The XXX Cr isn't a bad car by any means. It jumps nice and is pretty forgiving to drive. I just need to settle on a setup that can turn how I like it.
The Kyosho's are nice cars but parts support isn't great in our area, it's better then the Tamiya though.
I've been tempted with the Hot Bodies car as it's "different" enough for me. Time will tell. I'm a pretty impatient person and if after a lot of testing I'm still not content, cars are gone.
My Yok was by far the easiest car to drive hard. It was durable, accelerated hard and straight and was very easy to jump well.
I'm working on some things....I'll keep all who are interested posted.
Scotty: Get back to work! You're gonna get the XXX4 back in better shape then I got it in....
The XXX Cr isn't a bad car by any means. It jumps nice and is pretty forgiving to drive. I just need to settle on a setup that can turn how I like it.
The Kyosho's are nice cars but parts support isn't great in our area, it's better then the Tamiya though.
I've been tempted with the Hot Bodies car as it's "different" enough for me. Time will tell. I'm a pretty impatient person and if after a lot of testing I'm still not content, cars are gone.
My Yok was by far the easiest car to drive hard. It was durable, accelerated hard and straight and was very easy to jump well.
I'm working on some things....I'll keep all who are interested posted.
Scotty: Get back to work! You're gonna get the XXX4 back in better shape then I got it in....
08-17-2008, 02:49 PM
#60
Here's pics of my Bj4we with an R1 and Redline motor...
