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Old 06-30-2008, 08:09 PM   #31
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oh by the way im runnin an sp 4x4 tekin 632 r1 speed control 23/78 gearing 2 cell lipo and my profile was timing 12 throttle profile 3 bl/fw drag brake 10 brake strength 45 voltage cutoff 2 if this helps tekin support in this forum has been awsome and quik response im glad i bought this system. great support!!!!
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Old 06-30-2008, 11:32 PM   #32
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Every few seconds the esc does flash the led to show temp and I believe is just the one. You should be very close on the gearing. Try dropping one size on the pinion and see if the temps go down. I have my BJ4WE geared at 78-22 with a 448 motor and mine comes at 4 to 5 after 10 to 15 minutes of run time. Also the more brake you use, the hotter the esc can get.
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Old 07-01-2008, 01:54 AM   #33
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can anyone tell anything about redline engines efficiency and current drain? Especially 2.5T sensorless. Not many people using it...
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Old 07-01-2008, 10:00 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kajman View Post
can anyone tell anything about redline engines efficiency and current drain? Especially 2.5T sensorless. Not many people using it...
The 2.5 is to much motor for offroad. Unless you like wheel spin. As for efficiency, I have been able to run redline motors against gas trucks in a 30 min main with only a 5k lipo. without a battery change. Efficiency in brushless motors has more to do with throttle finger control than anything. If you are planning on using a 2.5 then efficiency isn't going to be very good.
For better efficency use a higher turn motor.
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Old 07-01-2008, 11:05 AM   #35
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I plan to use it in onroad, that's why I ask...
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Old 07-01-2008, 11:17 AM   #36
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The 2.5 is mostly for the speed run guys. It's way too much motor to run on a 1/10 scale track. However if you were going to run your 1/10 on say an 1/8 scale track and you wanted to scare the crap out of a few of those cars it'd be my first choice!

I've never tested that motor but it is the fastest one that we offer. It's going to draw a lot of current so I wouldn't say it's efficient on it's own. What are you going to run it in? And under what conditions?
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Old 07-01-2008, 11:24 AM   #37
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Well...problem is that THERE IS NO DATA about it, current drain and operating voltage I intend to feed it with 2s2p LiIon or 2s2p a123, esc to choose from: GM Genius 95, Lehner BK Warrior 9920, Hacker Master Car Sport. Anyway propably with current limiter not to destroy my xxx-s Do you have any data about this motor?
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Old 07-01-2008, 05:39 PM   #38
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The info you are looking for is not something that is requested often. The operating voltage I would expect is what the R1 Pro can give it. So, 3s would be a good idea of that.

I'll forward this to Jim and see if he has the spec's you're looking for.
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Old 07-01-2008, 07:39 PM   #39
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Follow up:


I had a chance to switch back to a 84/22 set up tonight. There is no drag in the drive train and the body has air holes for flow. After running a battery of hard laps (during which it ran great) I pulled the body and saw the temp blinking a full 7 bars.

I waited while it cooled to see how long it took to drop down but I guess it locks in at 7 once it gets that hot until the esc is power cycled.

I really like how it ran at 84/22 but I guess ill have to gear it way down to keep it from cooking itself.


Is it possible that there is a physical problem with the esc like a bad cap?


Regards,
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Old 07-01-2008, 09:31 PM   #40
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Yes, it's quite possible. That is something that if the cap alone is bad an extra 3 led's can easily be had.

First things first. Swap out that cap for another. If you have a G11 cap, it will work just fine.

My next thought is to ask you to post a pic of your car so I can see the layout. My friend also runs the same car same as you gearing and all. He has gotten up to 6 but I also know he's running a good cap,etc.

Sometimes it's neccessary to run two caps to lower temps. But in your case I'd really like to see your layout. The solder posts really need to be away from any other heat in the car and if there close to say the motor, that alone will not allow it to dissipate heat. Rather at times it make get heat from the motor.

The esc will come down form 7 led's it just takes time. The reason is that it's a live reading and will take real time to cool off. Check it by running a fan accross it after the mains.

I have no doubt that it's not your car. Help us help you and post a pic of your chassis,etc.
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Old 07-02-2008, 07:27 AM   #41
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Here are some pictures of my layout. This is just my standard setup and is how I had my LRP wired previously.

I had a the ESC sitting for 25 minutes and it was still on 7 LEDs even after very cool to the touch.







Again, thanks for all the assistance. It is appreciated.


regards,

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Old 07-03-2008, 08:18 AM   #42
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Thanks for posting the pictures.

You're not going to get any air flow on the solder posts on that car with the posts faces inside. My first words of advice are to turn it 90's posts towards the front of the car. Next is to fashion a vent right in front of it. I personally used to run a duct right on top of it. I can see by the picture that you clearly "need" the undertray. That means you're going to find a way to get the cooler outside air in and out.

I know it won't look as pretty as it does now. I too am very picky on my wiring as you appear to be as well.
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Old 07-03-2008, 08:25 AM   #43
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Yeah, we don't water the track as much as we should and it gets pretty dusty.

I will take your advice and move the ESC around as well as work on direct airflow on the unit.

Thanks.
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Old 07-14-2008, 05:50 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
The info you are looking for is not something that is requested often. The operating voltage I would expect is what the R1 Pro can give it. So, 3s would be a good idea of that.

I'll forward this to Jim and see if he has the spec's you're looking for.
DId you mange to get any info? I got my 278 today, nice packing, nice wires with ready 4mm golds, but no data on gearing, power supply, current, efficiency. But all the rest impressing a lot.
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Old 07-14-2008, 09:05 AM   #45
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Hello Looking for some advice.
I got a a great deal on a R1 and 537 combo just recently. So I swapped out my Mamba Max and 4300kv for the tekin goodies.
This is in my B44 with a 4200 maxamps lipo I geared it with a 21t pinion and the stock spur(84). It came off the 5min. qualifiers with 3 leds flashing and the motor in the 140's and the lipo around 100 deg's F not bad for a 88 deg day. But with me messing around with current limiters and throttle profile I could not get the rip I was looking for. I will be installing the HOTWIRE software tonight on my laptop so hopefully I maybe able to figure this out.

My question is with the hotwire setup what are your settings?
Or do I need the 632? which seams to be a more popular motor.
I don't think the Standard R1 will handle the 448.

Thanks in advance.
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