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Old 05-05-2008, 05:23 PM   #16
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I have the 448, 358 and 362 and prior to updating to the lastest version that is available online I was running the 362, until I updated my controller with the lastest version and needless to say I am back running the 448 geared 80/22 in the HB D4 and after a qual I have 4 ights showing on the speedo. I could gear it up a couple more teeth but there is no need as the speed is already faster than the 5.5's at the track. Our track surface has enough traction to where stock cars with brushed stock motors are pulling the wheels off the ground coming out of corners....tires of choice are switch 2.0's and if you are on the throttle alot with those they will be bald after your quali.
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Old 05-06-2008, 11:13 PM   #17
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I have the 448, 358 and 362 and prior to updating to the lastest version that is available online I was running the 362, until I updated my controller with the lastest version and needless to say I am back running the 448 geared 80/22 in the HB D4 and after a qual I have 4 ights showing on the speedo. I could gear it up a couple more teeth but there is no need as the speed is already faster than the 5.5's at the track. Our track surface has enough traction to where stock cars with brushed stock motors are pulling the wheels off the ground coming out of corners....tires of choice are switch 2.0's and if you are on the throttle alot with those they will be bald after your quali.

Couldnt agree any more!

This past weekend I lowered my Timing to about 20 as Tekin Prez told me to do with the software version 178 and I didnt notice losing any top end power but I did notice a little more low end, my car was once again on rails! I geared up to a 84/22 with the B44 and temps were still around 138 with only a couple lights showing up on my speedo. I could have geared up a little more but like Peakman said, I was already faster than any other car on the track and I didnt need any more speed (figure that one)..

I was able to run super smooth consistant laps again with how smooth the profile is on the R1 pro.. I had the 2nd fastest lap during qualifying (16.3) and was on a TQ pace in the third qualy but ended up tumbling after the triple (again) and qualified 4th only 5 secs behind TQ. The main was awesome. I passed the 3rd place car in the first corner and ended up passing 2nd and 1st place by the end of the first lap. I started pulling away and almost had a straightaway lead when the triple once again took me out (I noticed later that there was a huge rock on the downsloap on the third jump and that was taking me out, wich will be fixed). So I ended up running in 4th place to the end. I had 2nd fastest lap in the main with a 16.53 and Jason Jakubczyk (Full Kyosho, Orion sponsored) had a 16.50. Troy from Fantom told me after the race that I had the most HP out of all of them and that I ran an excellent race. So I had a good time again with the R1 pro.

Damon
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Old 05-06-2008, 11:17 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by DA_cookie_monst View Post
for 4wd buggy, I find the 448 a little too 'tame' and am going to be trying out the 358 for a bit more grunt, in the UK, it isn't so much as traction lacking, it is masses of traction, so being able to 'nail' it out of the corner, the 448 is just a little to soft.
Thats what I thought with my 448 the first test on the track, so I geared up about 4 teeth from what I was at and It came Alive! and I ended up going up another tooth! Believe me its fast as hell... 84/22 in a B44 with a 2.5 internal ration... You have to gear the Tekin motors up a bit, they can take allot more than a Novak...

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Old 05-06-2008, 11:22 PM   #19
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True. I didn't know what KV the Tekin motor was. I really nned to surf more and keep up a little better on the info thats out. I'm feel like I'm slacking some. I will say the 6900 is overkill. The only Tekin setup I have seen run was in a 4wd B44 about a month ago. Very impressive. The power delivery was very nice, linear, and easy to drive. Not sure what motor combo from Tekin he used but it was nice.

I do like the size of the new Tekin brushless ESC's. Very nice.
WYD what you doing in this forum arent you supposed to be in the Academy forum

Tekin stuff is amazing, believe me it rocks... If you have any questions hit me up with a PM... You should get an R1 pro with the 448 for 4Wd and you will like it brudda!!

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Old 05-06-2008, 11:26 PM   #20
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The 448 is the most popular in 4wd offroad. Our numbers are very easy.

632 - 6turn 3200kv
537 - 5 turn 3700kv
448 - 4turn 4800kv
and so on....

We will be offering a high kv rotor for the slower kv motors up to a 448. It raises the kv about 30% and gives a different feel.

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Mr Prez... I dont know if Im leaking this out, but I was talking with Troy from Fantom and he told me whats in the works!! Thats sweet because I run for both of you guys.. You should explain to people about the winds that you guys use in your motors compared to the others out there!.. I was filled in this weekend!!

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Old 05-07-2008, 07:32 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Diggity View Post


WYD what you doing in this forum arent you supposed to be in the Academy forum

Tekin stuff is amazing, believe me it rocks... If you have any questions hit me up with a PM... You should get an R1 pro with the 448 for 4Wd and you will like it brudda!!

Damon
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Old 05-07-2008, 07:59 AM   #22
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Can you give me some advice


I have been using all Novak stuff in my 2wd T4 and B4. I'm fed up with their junk though and have been looking for something else.

Right now I'm running a GTb and 10.5 my track is very loose slippery. our tires of choice are trk..Ifmar studs front and rear and buggy either a Ifmar pins or Losi step pins (silver) and front either holeshots or Ifmar studs.

what Tekin motor would you recommend running in these with the R1 pro ?

thanks
Mike
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Old 05-07-2008, 10:53 AM   #23
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I'd recomend the 632 in a heartbeat. This is the motor I use the most because our track is not full of traction. This motor can be geared however you like it for punch or torque. It's very very smooth and has great feel.
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Old 06-29-2008, 08:58 PM   #24
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Guys,

Found a couple answers I was looking for in this thread but still have a few more.

I am running an R1pro and 448 in a B44 (84t spur) 2.5 internal ratio

Everything runs well besides a little hesitation on starts but my real problem is the temp. After running an 8 minute practice session I pulled the body and the esc is really damn hot and it was showing 6 of 7 thermal leds on the speed control. This was with 84/22 gearing. I geared down to 84/20 and still it runs pretty darn hot, 6 of 7 again after a 10 minute run. I am running software 180 and everything is pretty much at defaults (12 timing for example, throttle profile 3)

So first question, should the esc be getting that close to thermal shutdown or is there something wrong?

We looked everthing over and cant figure out why it would run so hot with the 84/22 gearing


Any ideas?

Regards,

Bill
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Old 06-29-2008, 09:34 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Izumi63 View Post
Guys,

Found a couple answers I was looking for in this thread but still have a few more.

I am running an R1pro and 448 in a B44 (84t spur) 2.5 internal ratio

Everything runs well besides a little hesitation on starts but my real problem is the temp. After running an 8 minute practice session I pulled the body and the esc is really damn hot and it was showing 6 of 7 thermal leds on the speed control. This was with 84/22 gearing. I geared down to 84/20 and still it runs pretty darn hot, 6 of 7 again after a 10 minute run. I am running software 180 and everything is pretty much at defaults (12 timing for example, throttle profile 3)

So first question, should the esc be getting that close to thermal shutdown or is there something wrong?

We looked everthing over and cant figure out why it would run so hot with the 84/22 gearing


Any ideas?

Regards,

Bill
Hey Bill,

Well, a couple things.

First, make sure that your drive-train in your B44 is smooth, sometimes things can bind and this would overwork your motor! Just an idea...

Second, I run a Novak fan mounted just in front of the speedo just to make sure it keeps the temps lower, after an 8 minute run with the same gearing as you have and the same motor, I only have 2-3 lights blinking for temp.

Third, make sure you cut the front and rear of the body open real good to allow air flow through the electronics, also make sure you cutout the two upper damn holes as it shows in the pics on the manual, this should help a ton!
Hope that helps, Damon
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Old 06-29-2008, 09:40 PM   #26
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Thanks for the reply Damon,

All good things to check. The drive train is pretty smooth and I thought I have pretty good airflow. Ill see what I can do to streamline it though. I have the holes cut but I do not have a fan running or anything.

If you think of anything else let me know.


Regards,

Bill
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Old 06-29-2008, 10:09 PM   #27
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Hey Bill,

I have another one of our drivers at my local track running that same set up. He's running a 448 geared 84/22 and is alos getting 5-6 led's after 8 minutes of run. That's not bad to be honest. That's a great gearing for that motor and after 8 min's of runtime is an acceptable heat for the R1. You can try to run two caps, it will help bring the temps down a bit. Make sure to isolate the R1 from other heat such as the motor. I know that chassis is tight but every bit helps. I don't think a fan is neccessary for offroad.

6 led's isn't that close to thermal as you may think. I've pulled off with 7led's lit and not thermalled. My next question for you is this. Next time you run your car, count how may seconds it takes for the 6th led to drop to 5. Go ahead and gear it back to 84/22 and see how long it takes to drop down an led.
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Old 06-29-2008, 11:39 PM   #28
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undertrays also keep a lot of heat in, and or not let air to the motor/esc
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Old 06-30-2008, 04:39 AM   #29
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Hey Bill,

I have another one of our drivers at my local track running that same set up. He's running a 448 geared 84/22 and is alos getting 5-6 led's after 8 minutes of run. That's not bad to be honest. That's a great gearing for that motor and after 8 min's of runtime is an acceptable heat for the R1. You can try to run two caps, it will help bring the temps down a bit. Make sure to isolate the R1 from other heat such as the motor. I know that chassis is tight but every bit helps. I don't think a fan is neccessary for offroad.

6 led's isn't that close to thermal as you may think. I've pulled off with 7led's lit and not thermalled. My next question for you is this. Next time you run your car, count how may seconds it takes for the 6th led to drop to 5. Go ahead and gear it back to 84/22 and see how long it takes to drop down an led.

Ok thanks for the info, Ill gear it back to 84/22 and see how long it takes to drop to 5.


By the way guys, I really appreciate all the quick help.

Bill
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Old 06-30-2008, 07:58 PM   #30
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guys i have some newby tekin owner questions that really need answerd,1st question when i change settings useing the hotwire when it says submit settings to speed control and i click submit how long does it take to load the changes to my speed control? is it instant? or what? cause it doesnt say wether it made the changes or not. 2nd question is reading the on board temp when i pull my car off the track i looked at the speed control and the 6th light was on now shouldnt all 6 lights be on to indicate temp reading or just the 6th light or what? i had a 23 tooth pinoin 78 spur on my sp and pulled it off the track and looked at the light and the 6th light was the only light on. do i need to push a button to read temps? i thought the speed control did this automaticly but im probley wrong as usual. just could use some help i dont wanna burn anything up!!!LOL
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