RC8 Brushless New/newbies project.
04-28-2008, 10:06 PM
#1
RC8 Brushless New/newbies project.
Hi all, I'll tell you real quick my experience with RC car.As a kid(10+years ago) I owned a RC10 Team car. I had a lot of fun with it but i was to young to understand how it was important to keep it in good shape etc. It's still working but a lot of part need to be change.
I'm now 26.
I was looking at RC8 nitro at first when i saw those nice RC8 brushless mod.
From here i'll tell you all. I got very few experience with Nitro car and 1/8 brushless but I know 110% sure that if i go for 1/8 brushlessor any 1/8 car for that matter. i want a RC8. I dont want to tune a Nitro engine all the time.I dont like noisy car.I want car with power-like Nitro.and most important i want a plug and play car.
My question is: To start my projet should i buy a RC8 kit and sell extra part that i wont use or i should by it piece by piece 1 by 1 and get all part i need minus all nitro part in the RC8 kit. From there I'll start looking for best price around town and on internet. it could be nice to buy it piece by piece ( saving money).I'm not scare of puzzle challange.Money is not a real issue but i dont throw it by the window. Problem with buying piece by piece is that i have trouble to find a listing of exatly what you need to get a RC8 shap without all the extra Nitro item.
Resume:is it possible to buy it piece by piece and if i do.Would i save money versus a RC8 kit which i sell all extra part.
I hope you all get my point. My english is not the best around but i do my best.
I'm now 26.
I was looking at RC8 nitro at first when i saw those nice RC8 brushless mod.
From here i'll tell you all. I got very few experience with Nitro car and 1/8 brushless but I know 110% sure that if i go for 1/8 brushlessor any 1/8 car for that matter. i want a RC8. I dont want to tune a Nitro engine all the time.I dont like noisy car.I want car with power-like Nitro.and most important i want a plug and play car.
My question is: To start my projet should i buy a RC8 kit and sell extra part that i wont use or i should by it piece by piece 1 by 1 and get all part i need minus all nitro part in the RC8 kit. From there I'll start looking for best price around town and on internet. it could be nice to buy it piece by piece ( saving money).I'm not scare of puzzle challange.Money is not a real issue but i dont throw it by the window. Problem with buying piece by piece is that i have trouble to find a listing of exatly what you need to get a RC8 shap without all the extra Nitro item.
Resume:is it possible to buy it piece by piece and if i do.Would i save money versus a RC8 kit which i sell all extra part.
I hope you all get my point. My english is not the best around but i do my best.
04-29-2008, 12:10 AM
#2
Tech Rookie
Hi Mondenet
I am just starting on my RC8 project too about 2 weeks ago. I am taking my time because I am studying a lot in some of those threads.
I bought RC8 kit with only the gas tank extra ( mechanic break, and clutch) could be uses with some adjustment from what I ear mechanic break or bias break can be uses for sure some guys or working on a clutch for lipo buggy.
some guys said if you use high voltage you would need some mechanic break to slow down the car. You are better to keep them and case you need it and bias break can be adjust individuality front and back (3s(11.1V) to 6s(22.2V) lipo) the guys said that the car it is just fine without it.
RC8 RTR the deference is RTR is complete kit with engine and pipe...
I personally thing if you buy piece by piece it gone cost much more then 500$
Listen don't stop on what i tell you study and read and some other thread
and decide what you thing is good for you with the information you gone a get.
I am going to do 10s Lipo it is expensive but I can afford. Some guys said that the reason of all the heat problem it is from the AMP.so to much Amp. and not enough Voltage.
It is easer to go down if need it then go up and not be prepare for it.
have a great time building your project. I hope I help you a bit
Dany
RC8
I am just starting on my RC8 project too about 2 weeks ago. I am taking my time because I am studying a lot in some of those threads.
I bought RC8 kit with only the gas tank extra ( mechanic break, and clutch) could be uses with some adjustment from what I ear mechanic break or bias break can be uses for sure some guys or working on a clutch for lipo buggy.
some guys said if you use high voltage you would need some mechanic break to slow down the car. You are better to keep them and case you need it and bias break can be adjust individuality front and back (3s(11.1V) to 6s(22.2V) lipo) the guys said that the car it is just fine without it.
RC8 RTR the deference is RTR is complete kit with engine and pipe...
I personally thing if you buy piece by piece it gone cost much more then 500$
Listen don't stop on what i tell you study and read and some other thread
and decide what you thing is good for you with the information you gone a get.
I am going to do 10s Lipo it is expensive but I can afford. Some guys said that the reason of all the heat problem it is from the AMP.so to much Amp. and not enough Voltage.
It is easer to go down if need it then go up and not be prepare for it.
have a great time building your project. I hope I help you a bit
Dany
RC8
04-29-2008, 06:47 AM
#3
Your better off buying the factory roller and throwing the stuff you don't need away. There really aren't that many parts you dispose of.
There's some disinformation in the previous post:
Mechanical brakes and adjustable brake bias are absolutely not necessary, especially on the rc8 as it has decent off power steering. The buggy is lighter and much simpler without the mechanical brakes, you get longer run times due to the regenerative effect of braking and coasting too.
A clutch is more of a tuning tool to maximize traction, proper selection of the motor and gearing make it obsolete.
There is a slipperential due to be released sooner or later that will replace the center diff and give us a slipper clutch. Much lighter and cleaner install than running a clutch.
High voltage setups are good to a certain point, 6s is as high as I'd go on the rc8.
I've done a ton of setups from 6s to 15s on electric helis and there is a point where the reduced amp draw fails to compensate for the need to run much reduced cell capacity to keep the overall weight the same.
The issues some people are having with heat are being caused by their use of under spec packs, and the fact that the commonly used castle max esc is way too small for 1/8 use.
The new castle monster max due out in the next couple weeks will cure this.
If you're looking to race, the rules will likely spec a 4s max in the future.
Here's my setup, it's light, simple, the components run cool and it's fast !
Weight distribution is 50/50 front to back and side to side. It handles and brakes better than a nitro rc8 due to better weight distribution and lighter overall weight. And, of course, accelerates much quicker.
Regards,
Nathan
There's some disinformation in the previous post:
Mechanical brakes and adjustable brake bias are absolutely not necessary, especially on the rc8 as it has decent off power steering. The buggy is lighter and much simpler without the mechanical brakes, you get longer run times due to the regenerative effect of braking and coasting too.
A clutch is more of a tuning tool to maximize traction, proper selection of the motor and gearing make it obsolete.
There is a slipperential due to be released sooner or later that will replace the center diff and give us a slipper clutch. Much lighter and cleaner install than running a clutch.
High voltage setups are good to a certain point, 6s is as high as I'd go on the rc8.
I've done a ton of setups from 6s to 15s on electric helis and there is a point where the reduced amp draw fails to compensate for the need to run much reduced cell capacity to keep the overall weight the same.
The issues some people are having with heat are being caused by their use of under spec packs, and the fact that the commonly used castle max esc is way too small for 1/8 use.
The new castle monster max due out in the next couple weeks will cure this.
If you're looking to race, the rules will likely spec a 4s max in the future.
Here's my setup, it's light, simple, the components run cool and it's fast !
Weight distribution is 50/50 front to back and side to side. It handles and brakes better than a nitro rc8 due to better weight distribution and lighter overall weight. And, of course, accelerates much quicker.
Regards,
Nathan
04-29-2008, 07:08 AM
#4
I have been looking in to doing the rc8 conversion as well for quite some time, and I did research the cost versus which to buy - kit or rtr.
Honestly speaking it depends on what you already own. Do you already have a radio and a high torque servo?
If you are on a tighter budget buy the ready to run kit, and sell the motor. With the rtr kit you will get the radio, reciever and a steering servo, which is great if you dont have the extra money, at least you will have these components.
If your not on a tight budget buy the kit and build it your self. The quality of the components and factory team goodies, on the kit are better than what you get on the rtr kit. If you buy the kit you can pick your own radio, and your own steering servo - which ultmately will be better than what comes with the rtr.
Its ultimately up to you and what you feel like spending. Personally I am saving up the money and buying the parts that I need piece by piece.
Example. Buy the kit, buy the steering servo, buy the radio and reciever (or if you have a radio just an extra reciever) buy the conversion kit, buy the HV motor and esc, buy the battery and charger. This way you get exactly what you want, the first time.
Good luck on your project.
Honestly speaking it depends on what you already own. Do you already have a radio and a high torque servo?
If you are on a tighter budget buy the ready to run kit, and sell the motor. With the rtr kit you will get the radio, reciever and a steering servo, which is great if you dont have the extra money, at least you will have these components.
If your not on a tight budget buy the kit and build it your self. The quality of the components and factory team goodies, on the kit are better than what you get on the rtr kit. If you buy the kit you can pick your own radio, and your own steering servo - which ultmately will be better than what comes with the rtr.
Its ultimately up to you and what you feel like spending. Personally I am saving up the money and buying the parts that I need piece by piece.
Example. Buy the kit, buy the steering servo, buy the radio and reciever (or if you have a radio just an extra reciever) buy the conversion kit, buy the HV motor and esc, buy the battery and charger. This way you get exactly what you want, the first time.
Good luck on your project.
04-29-2008, 07:23 AM
#5
There's some disinformation in the previous post:
Mechanical brakes and adjustable brake bias are absolutely not necessary, especially on the rc8 as it has decent off power steering. The buggy is lighter and much simpler without the mechanical brakes, you get longer run times due to the regenerative effect of braking and coasting too.
A clutch is more of a tuning tool to maximize traction, proper selection of the motor and gearing make it obsolete.
There is a slipperential due to be released sooner or later that will replace the center diff and give us a slipper clutch. Much lighter and cleaner install than running a clutch.
Mechanical brakes and adjustable brake bias are absolutely not necessary, especially on the rc8 as it has decent off power steering. The buggy is lighter and much simpler without the mechanical brakes, you get longer run times due to the regenerative effect of braking and coasting too.
A clutch is more of a tuning tool to maximize traction, proper selection of the motor and gearing make it obsolete.
There is a slipperential due to be released sooner or later that will replace the center diff and give us a slipper clutch. Much lighter and cleaner install than running a clutch.
High voltage setups are good to a certain point, 6s is as high as I'd go on the rc8.
I've done a ton of setups from 6s to 15s on electric helis and there is a point where the reduced amp draw fails to compensate for the need to run much reduced cell capacity to keep the overall weight the same.
The issues some people are having with heat are being caused by their use of under spec packs, and the fact that the commonly used castle max esc is way too small for 1/8 use.
The new castle monster max due out in the next couple weeks will cure this.
If you're looking to race, the rules will likely spec a 4s max in the future.
I've done a ton of setups from 6s to 15s on electric helis and there is a point where the reduced amp draw fails to compensate for the need to run much reduced cell capacity to keep the overall weight the same.
The issues some people are having with heat are being caused by their use of under spec packs, and the fact that the commonly used castle max esc is way too small for 1/8 use.
The new castle monster max due out in the next couple weeks will cure this.
If you're looking to race, the rules will likely spec a 4s max in the future.
Here's my setup, it's light, simple, the components run cool and it's fast !
Weight distribution is 50/50 front to back and side to side. It handles and brakes better than a nitro rc8 due to better weight distribution and lighter overall weight. And, of course, accelerates much quicker.
Regards,
Nathan
Weight distribution is 50/50 front to back and side to side. It handles and brakes better than a nitro rc8 due to better weight distribution and lighter overall weight. And, of course, accelerates much quicker.
Regards,
Nathan
As i read all this, my main target is to run 25+- min at full power with the best perf as possible. Thx for info. I'll now sort out those battery stuff vs motor ESC motor etc.
04-29-2008, 07:28 AM
#6
Its ultimately up to you and what you feel like spending. Personally I am saving up the money and buying the parts that I need piece by piece.
Example. Buy the kit, buy the steering servo, buy the radio and reciever (or if you have a radio just an extra reciever) buy the conversion kit, buy the HV motor and esc, buy the battery and charger. This way you get exactly what you want, the first time.
Good luck on your project.
It's exactly what i'm going to do. . Budjet is less a problem. if i were about to buy allt he stuff at once it would be. But i will build this over 1-2 month.
I'll be also sure this way that i build it the way i want without having to buy a new part because i miss some info somewhere.
Edit: Im out to the hobby store and see how much they sell the standar kit vs buying it on internet
04-29-2008, 09:10 AM
#7
Many times it is better to get your best on line, shipped prices and bring that list to your LHS. Ask them to match the price. If they do Great for both of you. You will be supporting the LHS and saving money. If they wont match the price, and if its that much cheaper on line. Buy on line.
Just my .02
04-29-2008, 09:51 AM
#8
I agree in supporting your LHS. I also am the only one supporting my bank account, and for me any ways times are tough. Check your LHS pricing, and your out the door pricing on the internet, including shipping and any on line discounts that tower or amain hobbies are currently offering.
Many times it is better to get your best on line, shipped prices and bring that list to your LHS. Ask them to match the price. If they do Great for both of you. You will be supporting the LHS and saving money. If they wont match the price, and if its that much cheaper on line. Buy on line.
Just my .02
Many times it is better to get your best on line, shipped prices and bring that list to your LHS. Ask them to match the price. If they do Great for both of you. You will be supporting the LHS and saving money. If they wont match the price, and if its that much cheaper on line. Buy on line.
Just my .02
04-29-2008, 11:06 AM
#9
This is where i'm confuse. Why? It's simple. I have not idea what is 4s or 6s. i doubt it is the number of cell. It's probably because of my poor english skill and i miss something.
How long you run with this setup. Do you stop when power ran off or because temp goes too Hight.
4s is four lipo cells in series, for 14.8 volts total.
My 5s setup runs for 18-20 minutes. Temps never get too high, I've merely expended 80% of the packs 4350mah.
If you pull more than 80% of rated capacity out of a lipo cell it degrades them.
Also, lipo's don't have the power taper off at all, if you can detect the vehicle slowing, you're damaging the pack. Some folks use a low voltage cutoff set to the appropriate voltage on the esc, I prefer to use a timer.
The factory team roller comes with nicer parts than the rtr version. Carbon shock towers, better chassis, turnbuckles, etc.
04-29-2008, 11:08 AM
#10
i bet that thing walks past nitro buggys.
Your better off buying the factory roller and throwing the stuff you don't need away. There really aren't that many parts you dispose of.
There's some disinformation in the previous post:
Mechanical brakes and adjustable brake bias are absolutely not necessary, especially on the rc8 as it has decent off power steering. The buggy is lighter and much simpler without the mechanical brakes, you get longer run times due to the regenerative effect of braking and coasting too.
A clutch is more of a tuning tool to maximize traction, proper selection of the motor and gearing make it obsolete.
There is a slipperential due to be released sooner or later that will replace the center diff and give us a slipper clutch. Much lighter and cleaner install than running a clutch.
High voltage setups are good to a certain point, 6s is as high as I'd go on the rc8.
I've done a ton of setups from 6s to 15s on electric helis and there is a point where the reduced amp draw fails to compensate for the need to run much reduced cell capacity to keep the overall weight the same.
The issues some people are having with heat are being caused by their use of under spec packs, and the fact that the commonly used castle max esc is way too small for 1/8 use.
The new castle monster max due out in the next couple weeks will cure this.
If you're looking to race, the rules will likely spec a 4s max in the future.
Here's my setup, it's light, simple, the components run cool and it's fast !
Weight distribution is 50/50 front to back and side to side. It handles and brakes better than a nitro rc8 due to better weight distribution and lighter overall weight. And, of course, accelerates much quicker.
Regards,
Nathan
There's some disinformation in the previous post:
Mechanical brakes and adjustable brake bias are absolutely not necessary, especially on the rc8 as it has decent off power steering. The buggy is lighter and much simpler without the mechanical brakes, you get longer run times due to the regenerative effect of braking and coasting too.
A clutch is more of a tuning tool to maximize traction, proper selection of the motor and gearing make it obsolete.
There is a slipperential due to be released sooner or later that will replace the center diff and give us a slipper clutch. Much lighter and cleaner install than running a clutch.
High voltage setups are good to a certain point, 6s is as high as I'd go on the rc8.
I've done a ton of setups from 6s to 15s on electric helis and there is a point where the reduced amp draw fails to compensate for the need to run much reduced cell capacity to keep the overall weight the same.
The issues some people are having with heat are being caused by their use of under spec packs, and the fact that the commonly used castle max esc is way too small for 1/8 use.
The new castle monster max due out in the next couple weeks will cure this.
If you're looking to race, the rules will likely spec a 4s max in the future.
Here's my setup, it's light, simple, the components run cool and it's fast !
Weight distribution is 50/50 front to back and side to side. It handles and brakes better than a nitro rc8 due to better weight distribution and lighter overall weight. And, of course, accelerates much quicker.
Regards,
Nathan
04-29-2008, 04:55 PM
#11
Thx all, I just talk with my LHS.i ask him many question about what i learn in forums and his answerd match all your so far.
about my futur RC8 shop.
I find this --->Associated Factory Team 1/8 RC8 ARR w/service pack. Not sure what is ARR W/service pack.
http://www.rcplanet.com/Associated_F...p/asc80900.htm
With shiping.It cost me 515% without tax. My LHS sell it for 569.99 without tax. As i write this i'm still looking for good RC8 kit price.
I'm finnaly start to understand all hose ESC/brushless moter and battery stuff. The basic is kinda easy when you get it. i'll learn later by myself, you and with my LHS.
Thx All, I'll keep you update wihh my ''noob'' RC8 brushless.
about my futur RC8 shop.
I find this --->Associated Factory Team 1/8 RC8 ARR w/service pack. Not sure what is ARR W/service pack.
http://www.rcplanet.com/Associated_F...p/asc80900.htm
With shiping.It cost me 515% without tax. My LHS sell it for 569.99 without tax. As i write this i'm still looking for good RC8 kit price.
I'm finnaly start to understand all hose ESC/brushless moter and battery stuff. The basic is kinda easy when you get it. i'll learn later by myself, you and with my LHS.
Thx All, I'll keep you update wihh my ''noob'' RC8 brushless.
04-29-2008, 07:36 PM
#12
I got my RC8 brand new for $449 shipped from CarolinasRC . I would say a good online price you can get the vehicle for in the USA is usually about $450 shipped I have been finding. Heck, even saw one at $409!
For you starting out, you should probably buy:
RC Product Designs RC8 conversion
Mamba Monster ESC ( RC Monster has a heck of a deal right now on it)
Neu 1512 2.5D motor or 2D motor for 4S usage
PolyRC 4S 5000mah or 6000mah battery pack from RC Lipos
If you need garenteed runtime of 20 minutes, you probably want the 6000mah.
Another option that appears to work great is:
Neu 1512 1.5D motor or 2D motor
Maxamps 3S 8000mah pack
This setup has a faster motor if doing the 1.5D, but when ran on 3S should be more reasonable power wise, and the 8000mah 3S pack should not weight a ton.
Ultimately, more cell count is better, but I think that we are probably going to be limited if a class ever starts up to 4S, maybe 6S max.
For you starting out, you should probably buy:
RC Product Designs RC8 conversion
Mamba Monster ESC ( RC Monster has a heck of a deal right now on it)
Neu 1512 2.5D motor or 2D motor for 4S usage
PolyRC 4S 5000mah or 6000mah battery pack from RC Lipos
If you need garenteed runtime of 20 minutes, you probably want the 6000mah.
Another option that appears to work great is:
Neu 1512 1.5D motor or 2D motor
Maxamps 3S 8000mah pack
This setup has a faster motor if doing the 1.5D, but when ran on 3S should be more reasonable power wise, and the 8000mah 3S pack should not weight a ton.
Ultimately, more cell count is better, but I think that we are probably going to be limited if a class ever starts up to 4S, maybe 6S max.
04-30-2008, 07:41 PM
#13
Double post
04-30-2008, 07:43 PM
#14
I got my RC8 brand new for $449 shipped from CarolinasRC . I would say a good online price you can get the vehicle for in the USA is usually about $450 shipped I have been finding. Heck, even saw one at $409!
For you starting out, you should probably buy:
RC Product Designs RC8 conversion
Mamba Monster ESC ( RC Monster has a heck of a deal right now on it)
Neu 1512 2.5D motor or 2D motor for 4S usage
PolyRC 4S 5000mah or 6000mah battery pack from RC Lipos
If you need garenteed runtime of 20 minutes, you probably want the 6000mah.
Another option that appears to work great is:
Neu 1512 1.5D motor or 2D motor
Maxamps 3S 8000mah pack
This setup has a faster motor if doing the 1.5D, but when ran on 3S should be more reasonable power wise, and the 8000mah 3S pack should not weight a ton.
Ultimately, more cell count is better, but I think that we are probably going to be limited if a class ever starts up to 4S, maybe 6S max.
For you starting out, you should probably buy:
RC Product Designs RC8 conversion
Mamba Monster ESC ( RC Monster has a heck of a deal right now on it)
Neu 1512 2.5D motor or 2D motor for 4S usage
PolyRC 4S 5000mah or 6000mah battery pack from RC Lipos
If you need garenteed runtime of 20 minutes, you probably want the 6000mah.
Another option that appears to work great is:
Neu 1512 1.5D motor or 2D motor
Maxamps 3S 8000mah pack
This setup has a faster motor if doing the 1.5D, but when ran on 3S should be more reasonable power wise, and the 8000mah 3S pack should not weight a ton.
Ultimately, more cell count is better, but I think that we are probably going to be limited if a class ever starts up to 4S, maybe 6S max.
Edit: now that i know what bettery/motor/esc ill get. i need to find a good server reciver/radio
05-02-2008, 06:58 PM
#15
OK, so far here is what i'm aim AT
1. <Car>RC8
http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idProduct=4552
2. <Motor>Neu 1512/1.5d/F finned motor
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...121.5df&cat=20
3. <Speed controller>Mamba monster ESC
http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...a_monster.html
4. <Lipo Battery>Lipo 8000HV 3S2P 11.1V Pack
http://www.maxamps.com/Lipo-8000-111-Pack.htm
5. <Charger>I still need to figure it out. Mainly looking for speed charge/price. Any charger taht can balance Lipo also?
6. <Conversion Kit>1/8th Scale Electric EA8 Conversion Kit With more experience with those car i would make it my self with a friend who is machinist.
http://rcproductdesigns.com/images/EA8%20Kit.JPG
http://rcproductdesigns.com/EigthScaleParts.htm
7. <Radio> Nomadio React Radio System w/ Transceiver
http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=3049
8.<Servo>I have no idea what to get here.
1.469.99
2.234.00
3.199.00
4.233.19 <---Ouch!!
5.
6.195.00
7.259.99
8.
Add servo and charger and i'll end up to 2k for sure
1. <Car>RC8
http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idProduct=4552
2. <Motor>Neu 1512/1.5d/F finned motor
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...121.5df&cat=20
3. <Speed controller>Mamba monster ESC
http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...a_monster.html
4. <Lipo Battery>Lipo 8000HV 3S2P 11.1V Pack
http://www.maxamps.com/Lipo-8000-111-Pack.htm
5. <Charger>I still need to figure it out. Mainly looking for speed charge/price. Any charger taht can balance Lipo also?
6. <Conversion Kit>1/8th Scale Electric EA8 Conversion Kit With more experience with those car i would make it my self with a friend who is machinist.
http://rcproductdesigns.com/images/EA8%20Kit.JPG
http://rcproductdesigns.com/EigthScaleParts.htm
7. <Radio> Nomadio React Radio System w/ Transceiver
http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=3049
8.<Servo>I have no idea what to get here.
1.469.99
2.234.00
3.199.00
4.233.19 <---Ouch!!
5.
6.195.00
7.259.99
8.
Add servo and charger and i'll end up to 2k for sure
Last edited by mondenet; 05-02-2008 at 08:44 PM.
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