kookiemonster

I'm getting a rc10t4 team kit - I work in the oil fields and am stuck here 24/7 - I have no access to a hobby shop and was wondering what all would be necessary to be completely set to get started

I won't be racing but may when i get done with work in a few months - I plan on gettin a Mambo Max 6900 or 7700 and a lipo - Would it be much easier to just get the RTR and a few tools or would it be possible to get everything i need to build the kit in 1 order?

Thanks for the help

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

it does come with small set of allen's but look at a complete set like the ae factory kit for about $50 http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.php/cPath/1_89_140

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Don't waste your time using the included allen wrenches. You will just strip screws and beat the crap out of your fingers.

Get a good set of hex drivers. the ones listed previously are good. I like the integy ones or the dynamite machined (not the cheapo ones) ones too.

Just make sure that whatever you get covers all the screw sizes you may encounter ( I know the 6 piece kit from integy needs a 2mm screw, the 7 piece one though is good to go).

Where you located at by the way?

kookiemonster

I'm in Wyoming and my job affords me about 12 hours of free time a day, so I thought this would be something to take up all that spare time

Maybell

iTrader: (2)

for building a T4...

hex drivers:
-.050
-1/16
-3.32
-5.64

No need to get nut drivers for the build because the kit includes some plastic ones to get you started..

Also get some lexan scissors, a hobby knife, and needle nose pliers...

That covers the priorities that I can think of at this time...

Have fun and good luck!

TSewell

A factory team turnbuckle wrench, a racers edge ballcup tool, and a thin wall 3/16 nut driver (for ballstuds) will make your life much, much easier. The kit included tools tend to be a little on the flimsy side (at least the turnbuckle wrench and 3/16 nut driver).

kookiemonster

Thanks for the info guys

One more question...

Do i need a solder iron for the batteries, esc, and motor?

what kinda connection comes on the mamba esc relitive to say orion or reedy lipos?

I'm not totally green. I had a
rc10 about 10 or 12 years ago, but everything seems very different now

Thanks again for the help!!

Cain

iTrader: (294)

You will need a soldering iron. A good one that the Late Big Jim (was a top motor guy in the RC world, maybe The Top next to Mike Reedy) was a Goot soldering gun. I don't have a link but they go for about 30 dollars.

Main thing is don't get some cheapo walmart special. If you have to get a gun from a big box store, the Weller 250W gun from Radio shack is what I use and it works well. DO NOT BUY THERE CHEAPER ONE.

As for connectors that the ESC will come with, I am not sure. Maybe some Tamiya style plugs, but those are garbage and I wouldn't use them. I would say the easiest to use would be something like the Sermos Powerpole / Anderson connectors. Very easy to solder up and go. Deans connects are good, but can be a real pain to a newbie.

You will probably not need to solder a connection between the ESC and the motor with a Castle Creations setup. Main thing is if you experience any weird cogging or glitching, then people usually eliminate the connector there and that clears up the issue usually. On the mamba maxs I have had, I haven't had to do this for my 1/10 scale usage.

I would recommend the following setup to you for your Team T4 for bashing:

1. Mamba Max 5700 system or Sidewinder 5700 system
2. Servo with minimum 85oz torque .15 transit at 5V
3. RPM large front bumper
4. Associated alloy Front hingepin brace
5. Basher friendly tires ( I like Mashers or something that gives some height)
6. Truerc 8000mah 10C or 15C lipo battery 7.4V (the $82 10C one works good)
7. Any 2.4Ghz style radio
8. Pinions (the Robinson Racing pinion pack is great to start with)
9. Hyperion Charger

http://www.rclipos.com/HP-EOS0606i.htm
http://www.rclipos.com/HP-EOS0610i.htm

Now here, you have a variety of options. I personally love the 610i for its power, but you will need an external power supply (the MRC one works well). But, they do have ones with AC/DC (606i) already built in, but they only do up to 6amps. You can still charge your 8000mah pack, but not at the full 1C rating (which is 8Amps). Basically, it will just take a little longer to charge, but, with an 8000mah pack, you can see REALLY long runtimes (30+ minutes in race conditions, bashing even more). or, you could do a 15C 6000mah pack, just make sure that you constant C rating is as good as what Orion 4800 does I would say ( 75amps)

Give Pat at RC Lipos (www.rclipos.com) an email and tell him Marco referred ya and see what deal he can work for you on a charger. Nice thing I like about Pat is his excellent customer service, and the fact that they have free worldwide shipping on everything!


As for racing, you will probably need to get a hardcased lipo. Places for mod classes usually have no issues with the brushless sensorless setup of the Castle Mamba / Sidewinder motors. I would recommend the Trakpower 25C 4900mah lipo. Excellent pack. If you get that, post that you have it so we can give you advise on what you need to setup the connectors to do balancing of it.

kookiemonster

Wow, Thanks

That was what i was looking for - I'll let you know how it goes in a week or two