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Old 04-23-2008, 01:15 AM   #1
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Default Noob with old Team Associated buggy

Hi,

I'm old skool/noob. This is my old car from when I was like 14-15 in the early 90's, so its old and hence many of the questions I'll have. As far as I know, its a Team Associated frame/chassis with various Associated and Losi parts, Novak speed control, and other stuff. I didn't really pick it out or mod it back then, it was more the "new" old man's thing at the time, my mom had just remarried. He was trying to get my brother and I into the cars, yet he wouldn't really sit down and explain anything, and our "jobs" became basically racing and then cleaning them afterward, but DON'T TOUCH anything else. Nice. Needless to say, the hobby didn't stick all that long.

Here it is, 15 years later and I'm a weekend warrior on the big kids trails with a built truck, 6" lift, lots of mods, diff locker, etc. I kinda got an itch to dig my old RC car out and play with it on my own terms. I went through it, cleaning, lubing and replacing things, checking stuff out... and screwing with stuff I wasn't supposed to touch! HAHAHAHA old man! Its been great, with some bugs along the way.

Anyways, I'll leave it at that, and post my questions elsewhere. Please post up if you have any comments and such to add, as I'm really kinda starting from scratch here and its an old rig. Thanks!



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Old 04-23-2008, 01:59 AM   #2
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Hey, that's quite a tricked out ride you got there! RC10 w/ rpm '91 worlds front and rear suspension kits Very nice! You should also check out rc10talk.com for that oldskool r/c scene
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Old 04-23-2008, 05:57 AM   #3
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Thats an RC10. Very nice. You can rebuild almost anything on it. The first thing that you should do is buy a $4 shock rebuild kit and $2.50 shock oil in 35w. It will make an incredible difference on a buggy that is that old.

You dont want to put to much power through the buggy because of the age of the transmission. You can buy new ones from RPM but you will need some old parts out of the old one.

Almost all modern buggies have bearings, and not bushings like the RC10 had. If you still have the bushings, buy a complete bearing kit. Dynamite has them and its not to expensibe. If you put a faster motor in it, you will have trouble with the bushings overheating.

Get your self a 19t komodo dragon motor for $25, and a good battery pack is important. The higher the mah the longer the run time. Get a good nimh pack for under $40.

Good luck rebuilding that buggy! With the upgrades that I mentioned above you can make it very quick and moderenized.
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Old 04-23-2008, 08:50 AM   #4
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Cool, thanks for the info. Right now I'm mostly interested in getting it functional for inexpensive, with later mods and toys to come. Its fairly quick, at least for what I'm used to. The battery packs are original as well, and I was kind of surprised to see that they still hold a good charge after a few uses lately, but I'm sure they could stand to be updated.

Shocks are also on the to-do list. One of the fronts has a leak. We used to run 20w, and I just picked up some 25 as the shop guy said I shouldn't go much heavier, but who knows, maybe I'll look at some anyways. Do you think I should try and rebuild these old things, or look into new ones? i.e. is there much performance to be gained?

Regarding the bushings vs. bearings, are you talking in the motor/transmission, or wheels?

I have a separate thread regarding the Losi limited slip (?- if that's what it is) that is causing the immediate issues, so I'll avoid double-posting. It can be found here http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=218467

Thanks again!
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Old 04-23-2008, 09:04 AM   #5
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I would just rebuild the old ones. They are alumunum and will not go bad unless they are bent. I am still running the orgional shocks on my 10T.

The bearing upgrade would be for the transmission and both the front and rear wheels. Batteries today are so efficent and powerful that they run at higher speeds for a longer period of time, creating more heat.

The bearing upgrade is a must in my book. With an inexpensive modern battery, and a modern stock 27t motor you should be able to get 15 muinute runtimes (which is almost double from back in 1990). The technology is so superior its not even compariable. With double runtimes and faster speeds everything will heat up more quickly, and thats why I mentioned the bearings.

From the look of the picture you are running either silver or gold springs, which are on the heaver end, because of the weight of the buggy. I mentioned the thicker oil because heaver oil goes along with the heaver springs. To light of an oil and the buggy may feel "bouncy" or "springy" to you. But either way the rebuild is the most important thing.

I have been able to rebuild the rear diff, but I have not been able to find the gears. I am still using the orgional gears in the transmission and they are working like they were new. Just clean them an put them back together.

Though others may disagree I wouldnt run anything faster than a 17 to a 19 turn motor in the buggy, with a modern battery. I keep mine on the quick but not fast side because I want to perserve the old truck the best that I can.
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Old 04-24-2008, 05:08 PM   #6
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I'd be quite surprised if it didn't already have full bearings. Based on your other thread, I'd be amazed if someone put a Hydra Drive on a bushing car, possibly, but a strange combination. There were a lot of bearing RC10s sold back in the day, it's not exactly modern technology, and this isn't a really ancient gold tub car. Should be easy to check by taking off a front wheel and looking.

Not sure, but it appears to be a Stealth transmission. Perhaps a picture from the left side so we can see it better. The Stealth is an excellent tranny by the way. I even ran them on Losis back in the day. Again I'm not completely sure, but I've never seen or heard of a bushing Stealth myself.

Agree that the shocks might like new seals and fluid, other than that they should be fine.

Manuals are available on the Team Associated web site, suggest you get one of those for reference. Perhaps some old school Associated guys can help out, but I'm guessing it's a Team RC10.

By the way, any aluminum tub RC10 like yours is way more desirable than the Graphite versions. Sweet ride!

Last edited by Dave H; 04-24-2008 at 05:20 PM.
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Old 04-24-2008, 06:25 PM   #7
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this is making me want to put together my RC10 team car again.. The rebendable aluminum tub chassis and all.
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Old 04-24-2008, 07:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave H View Post
but I've never seen or heard of a bushing Stealth myself.
Many of the orgionals came with brass bushings, just like my 10T. Bearings were a very desireable upgrade.

Your right though to check first. Take off the wheels and check the rear hubs. Dont guess on the tranny, take it apart and look inside as well to be sure they are in there.

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Old 04-24-2008, 11:55 PM   #9
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Damn......sanyo nicads, wing wire, tub chassis, kimbrough servo savers, reedy outlaws......this one brings me back! Lookin good!
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Old 04-25-2008, 06:22 AM   #10
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First off its an Rc10 team car from the early 90s. It has a stealth tranny and the black tub so it should have full bearings however due to age I would check them all. Team associated still stocks many parts for this car. you should be able to get the parts to use the slipper again, or if the car had a hydra drive system on it you will need to get old losi slipper parts unless you want to get a new top shaft. The front shocks you can rebuild as they are actually the ones from an RC10T, and the rear shocks appear to be old school Kyosho ones so if you want to keep this thing near original get some new rear associated shocks, plus the associated shocks are better. I had a bunch of these cars, but never with the worlds front end I always wanted one though. Enjoy it.

And OG I'm not sure if you are aware, but back in the mid 90s associated produced a RC10T sport kit that had the gold shocks and bushings to keep costs down. Thats what yours is. The original RC10T had the teflon coated shocks and all the aluminum was anodized black.
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Old 04-25-2008, 06:40 AM   #11
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Your car also has the RPM Worlds front and rear suspension which is something very very desirable these days. Not only that, the car out-handles other 'regular' team cars on rough tracks since the RPM front and rear suspension uses longer arms and longer shocks up front.

Tear it apart, simple green everything except the transmission stuff and bearings, pick up some teflon shocks for the rear, grab a few new packs, put on some modern tires and race that thing! The stealth transmission can take pretty well whatever power you throw at it, it's essentially bulletproof. I remember running down to a 10 turn on 7 cells and not having any issues.

Really nice car you have, enjoy it.
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Old 04-25-2008, 07:13 AM   #12
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Hey guys, just as a side note,: What body is that?

Daddy likes!

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Old 04-25-2008, 09:07 PM   #13
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Pretty sure that's a Dahm's body but I'm not sure which one...
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Old 04-25-2008, 10:58 PM   #14
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Pick up a B4 top shaft, slipper plates, pads and spur gear...direct fit.

I have several RC10's and have run my RPM Worlds car recently on a track with a Mamba brushless/lipo set up...no worries about the tranny holding together.

Listen to Adam's advice, he is spot on.



Yes, I changed my rear tires before I hit the track...those are my "grass" tires.
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Old 04-26-2008, 12:17 AM   #15
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Holy... cow. You guys rock! Please keep pouring it on, the instant knowledge is awesome! I love this old beast. I do believe I have some research/building in my future. Shock rebuilds are next.



I can't thank you all enough, and please don't feel shy to dump knowledge on me if you please. I love it! I've learned more about my stuff in a couple days so far than I knew in the last 15 years!

You all remind me of my regular crew at www.nissanpathfinders.com, the forums are here if you're interested. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?
If you happen over that way, you'll find lots of helpfull Nissan stuff and people, and you'll find me under the same name, Mr. Pickles. My regular hobby is over there in my avatar. If you're in the NW and/or run the local trails, drop me a line.
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