Losi xxx-4

Old 10-08-2007, 02:23 PM
  #1426  
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I use about 40% negative brake expo on my transmitter and also 40% drag brakes on my GTB ESC, this allows the car to slow down a fair bit when letting off the throttle and simulates a brushed motor a lot more, i havent had to many problems with the rear swapping out on me, it does get a little loose under heavy braking but which car thats RWD brake doesnt?

I drove the car around for a long time with the front diff and bought the one way just for an experiment and really liked it, suits my driving style more, i have never ran a 4WD electric until this car, always ran 2WD.
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Old 10-11-2007, 12:35 PM
  #1427  
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NJA82,

Thanks for the ideas. I was practicing last night at ExtremeRC in Evansdale, IA (with front diff) and, aside from some other details, I felt I was really slow making wide turns around the many 180 degree bends -- the only way to stay tight with the car around those corners was to goose the throttle, but I am not that consistent to not nose into the pipe or sometimes just make the turning circle bigger. I will try going to a bit more drag brake -- I am not sure yet (til I look at my radio later) what -40 exponential on the radio brake means. Thanks.
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Old 10-11-2007, 03:01 PM
  #1428  
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Thinking about getting an XXX4 G+. I have never ran 4wd electric buggies though. I have heard that this car is prone to breaking (especially for someone with my skill level).

What parts and hopups would you recommend to make sure that I am set at the track with enough spares and the car is as beefy as possible.
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Old 10-11-2007, 05:16 PM
  #1429  
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About 11 post upwards here, posted mine. Some people worry about the front shock tower, but I never broke one. I broke 2 rear shock towers a while back. Sure enough, I just fouled up the belt last night. I am wondering if the IQ-Tuning hold-down is misfeeding the belt upon braking and then pinching it up -- or is my belt too loose for the belt hold-down.
I keep phasing in and out between sticking with the xxx4 and learning something with it OR tryng something like a B44 -- there just aren't enough people close to me that I can compare notes with.

Last edited by BobWoodhouse; 10-11-2007 at 05:22 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 10-13-2007, 06:34 PM
  #1430  
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Hey, I am messing around with a front one-way now. What are those steps that people take to keep them from blowing apart -- 1) file down the pin on the dogbone so it doesn't pull the outdrive out and 2) somehow rough up the outdrive shaft so it doesn't slide out? It is that second step that I am not sure how it works or how to do it. I was playing around with drilling a 2-56 hole from the back so I could use a short 2-56 screw to hold down a thin washer that would be a bit bigger than the one-way bearing, thus keeping the outdrive from sliding out, but that metal is too hard (as in steel that has a high hardness) for me to drill.
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Old 10-15-2007, 07:29 AM
  #1431  
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Heya all, making the switch from onroad to offroad and picked up used xxx-4, Was wondering on what pinions to use on a 15T and a 19T. I have a 94T Spur in it with the kevlar belt. I hate to go through 50 pages and only made it through 5 so far. Though I will eventually Thanks Gene
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Old 10-15-2007, 07:58 AM
  #1432  
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I'm using a 16 with a 13x2, and a 23 with a 27turn stock in my sons buggy, both with 92 pinion and 41 tooth front diff to give it some over drive.
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Old 10-20-2007, 12:10 AM
  #1433  
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Is anyone running a lipo in there wheeler and do they fit? Thanks.
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Old 10-20-2007, 06:06 AM
  #1434  
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Originally Posted by cpatel529
Thinking about getting an XXX4 G+. I have never ran 4wd electric buggies though. I have heard that this car is prone to breaking (especially for someone with my skill level).

What parts and hopups would you recommend to make sure that I am set at the track with enough spares and the car is as beefy as possible.
If anybody plans to get a 4wd from Losi, get the XX4WE. Far superior in handling. I've had both. Regret the XXX4.
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Old 10-20-2007, 08:17 PM
  #1435  
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I have Lipo in my xxx4.

A little milling, and a few lead inserts in there.
Attached Thumbnails Losi xxx-4-open.jpg   Losi xxx-4-closed.jpg  
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Old 10-22-2007, 04:16 PM
  #1436  
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Default One-way Outdrive That Won't Fall Out

Hi,

A while back, we were talking about securing the outdrives in a xxx-4 Losi 1-way. I have made my own way which sounds more secure than what I have heard so far. So the attached pictures.

In the first, you see the outdrive taken further apart than normal. There is a small washer/shim that is JB-Welded to one end of the steel shaft. In the next picture, you see that the shaft can be inserted from the back side of the 1-way bearing. In the 3rd picture, you see the outdrive cup being screwed back onto the steel shaft. In the final view, you see the assembled unit with the washer that keeps the outdrive from coming out.

This technique is cheap, easy, reversible, maintainable and more secure than many others. Let me know what you think.

Best,
Bob
Attached Thumbnails Losi xxx-4-picture-12.jpg   Losi xxx-4-picture-13.jpg   Losi xxx-4-picture-14.jpg   Losi xxx-4-picture-15.jpg  
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Old 10-25-2007, 06:34 AM
  #1437  
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I tried out the new setup with the one-way on a freshly-built indoor clay track last night (extremerconline.com in Evansdale, IA).

The setup with the one-way was definitely better. I was also running with the Castle Creations (MM) ESC set to 40% drag brake. With this setup, I hardly had to use full brake on this flowing track layout. There was one part of the track that was killing me -- the back straight!?!?! If I let off the throttle, I think the drag brake was just a bit too strong, and the back end would skate around. Of course, hitting full brake had the same issue. I did not have my computer there to change it, and I did not take advantage of programming the ESC with the other method. It seemed like the best line I could hope for would be to let the drag brake (set at a new, lower setting -- maybe 30%) slow me down and then scrub off the rest by turning hard at the end of the straight. Once the car was (intentionally) sideays into the turn at the end of the straight, its not like it was spinning or loose -- it slid nicely. I tried several different tires, thinking if I had more sidebite it would be better under braking, but I had no real sidebite complaints elsewhere on the track.

Is it just most likely too much drag brake? I can't think of any other suspension setup changes that would make a difference. BTW, I was geared a little tall, so my gearing was not really strengthening the drag brake effect beyong normal.
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Old 10-26-2007, 08:16 PM
  #1438  
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Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
If anybody plans to get a 4wd from Losi, get the XX4WE. Far superior in handling. I've had both. Regret the XXX4.
I don't know if your interested but trains and lanes in easton, pa has a brand new xx-4 g+ on the shelf you can probably get a really good deal on it.
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Old 10-28-2007, 01:30 AM
  #1439  
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Originally Posted by BobWoodhouse
I tried out the new setup with the one-way on a freshly-built indoor clay track last night (extremerconline.com in Evansdale, IA).

The setup with the one-way was definitely better. I was also running with the Castle Creations (MM) ESC set to 40% drag brake. With this setup, I hardly had to use full brake on this flowing track layout. There was one part of the track that was killing me -- the back straight!?!?! If I let off the throttle, I think the drag brake was just a bit too strong, and the back end would skate around. Of course, hitting full brake had the same issue. I did not have my computer there to change it, and I did not take advantage of programming the ESC with the other method. It seemed like the best line I could hope for would be to let the drag brake (set at a new, lower setting -- maybe 30%) slow me down and then scrub off the rest by turning hard at the end of the straight. Once the car was (intentionally) sideays into the turn at the end of the straight, its not like it was spinning or loose -- it slid nicely. I tried several different tires, thinking if I had more sidebite it would be better under braking, but I had no real sidebite complaints elsewhere on the track.

Is it just most likely too much drag brake? I can't think of any other suspension setup changes that would make a difference. BTW, I was geared a little tall, so my gearing was not really strengthening the drag brake effect beyong normal.
If it is doing what you say on the end of the backstraight maybe try a stiffer front spring and/or stiffer oil and piston setup for that track, the car can be adapted to suit that kind of driving style, if the rear breaks loose under braking its usually because either the front is to soft and taking to much of the weight over the front wheels or the rear hasnt got enough down travel/droop to keep the rear wheels on the ground and the car is lifting the rear up to much. Maybe also try some internal shock springs inside the rear shocks to avoid them lifting up so much under braking, would help keep the car a bit flatter. What ride heights are you running front and rear?

I had the same problem on my XXX4 for a while but i have since backed off some drag brakes down to 20% max and just learned to drive it this way, i found it faster with less drag brakes actually, allows the car to be pushed without actually pushing it if you know what i mean
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Old 10-28-2007, 08:45 AM
  #1440  
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NJA82,

I did have someof your ideas. I went to blu springs in the front, but also red in the back. I also went with sligtly thicker oil (Losi 35), and the front has the smallest hole pistons and the back has the biggest.

Now you did throw me off saying that the rear might not have enough droop, and then also you mention internal springs in the rear -- are those opposite ideas? If they are not opposite ideas, then I don't fully understand.

My ride height was about bones level. I could probably lower it.

I think less drag brake is the next best thing to do. I have to decided if I want to start bringing a computer to the trck with me. Or just set drag brake to zero, then play with moving around the neutral point to dial in exactly the amount of brake I want to use when I let the trigger go to the neutral position.

Thanks.
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