Losi xxx-4

Old 07-16-2007, 06:47 AM
  #1291  
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You know I don't know what everyone is talking about with the XXX-4 G+ being so fragile. Recently I've probably run ATLEAST 25 packs through my car doing some hard bashing and I haven't broken anything. When I first got my car I broke a camber block off a bad jump, and I broke the rear diff screw on a rebuild one day because I over tightened it. Other than that this thing has been nothing but a tank for me. ( unitl I write this post and the whole thing falls apart next time I take it out) I love this car... and my friends hate it because they keep getting smoked

Jay
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Old 07-16-2007, 04:36 PM
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I love this car... and my friends hate it because they keep getting smoked

Jay
Nice, keep up the good work.
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Old 07-17-2007, 06:09 PM
  #1293  
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Originally Posted by pyro18t
You know I don't know what everyone is talking about with the XXX-4 G+ being so fragile. Recently I've probably run ATLEAST 25 packs through my car doing some hard bashing and I haven't broken anything. When I first got my car I broke a camber block off a bad jump, and I broke the rear diff screw on a rebuild one day because I over tightened it. Other than that this thing has been nothing but a tank for me. ( unitl I write this post and the whole thing falls apart next time I take it out) I love this car... and my friends hate it because they keep getting smoked

Jay
If you go back and look at a lot of the posts about the weakness of XXX4 you'll probably notice that much of that talk is pretty old. The original version had some pretty weak a-arms that didn't hold up to much. About 2 years (maybe it was 3) ago they redesigned them and the new ones are much better. I never broke one of the new ones. Also the original shock towers (didn't come on the G+) didn't hold up to well.

The current issues with the XXX4 (and in my experience not to common) since the arms were redesigned are

1. the caster blocks which can be improved with the mod from X-factory or replaced with the aluminum ones from A-main hobbies
2. The inner and out hinge pin pivots (you want this as the weak point in the front anyway since it is the cheapest)
3. Front diff cover either stripping out the screws or cracking the chassis. Both of which can be easily prevented by drilling out the holes to take a 4-40 screw with washers and lock nuts.

Nothing is perfect and anything can break, but unless you are a newbie and running into everything the car holds up great. (No offence to the newbies, we were all one once)
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Old 07-17-2007, 07:19 PM
  #1294  
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Originally Posted by Alltapdout
Nice, keep up the good work.
i have actually set up my 4 for dirt oval this summer, and so far i havent been beaten yet and we've been racing since april!
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Old 07-18-2007, 07:45 AM
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Awsome, I bet that thing kill's it....It handles like a dream on-road, just squats down and rip's in the corners. All my buddies stuff, just rolls over when they turn too sharply.
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Old 07-18-2007, 09:21 AM
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Can anyone recomend a good setup for LOOSE dirt and a ruff track. I know the XXX-4 isn't really the right buggy for a ruff track, but it's where we race and I don't really have a choice. For tires I'm running front and rear RED Tapers. and my current setup is Travis' off the web site. Thanks guys!

Jay
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Old 07-18-2007, 10:00 AM
  #1297  
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The tapers will not work very well for loose conditions. Look at Losi studs or Proline Steppins. You will have to make the front tires for steppins from a set of rears if you go the proline route. Losi makes studs for the front though. I liked silver studs up front and red studs in the rear on mine. Plus run the hubs all the way back to lengthen the chassis. You can also swap the rear a arms too make the wheelbase longer. Just put the left on the right and the right on the left. When this is done the word graphite will face to the front instead of the back. Also, run 10 degrees kickup in the front and 2 degree antisquat in the rear.
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Old 07-18-2007, 10:06 AM
  #1298  
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Originally Posted by kzacher
If you go back and look at a lot of the posts about the weakness of XXX4 you'll probably notice that much of that talk is pretty old. The original version had some pretty weak a-arms that didn't hold up to much. About 2 years (maybe it was 3) ago they redesigned them and the new ones are much better. I never broke one of the new ones. Also the original shock towers (didn't come on the G+) didn't hold up to well.

The current issues with the XXX4 (and in my experience not to common) since the arms were redesigned are

1. the caster blocks which can be improved with the mod from X-factory or replaced with the aluminum ones from A-main hobbies
2. The inner and out hinge pin pivots (you want this as the weak point in the front anyway since it is the cheapest)
3. Front diff cover either stripping out the screws or cracking the chassis. Both of which can be easily prevented by drilling out the holes to take a 4-40 screw with washers and lock nuts.

Nothing is perfect and anything can break, but unless you are a newbie and running into everything the car holds up great. (No offence to the newbies, we were all one once)
The Xfactory kingpin mod is not needed for the XXX-4 X brace arms. They are plenty strong without it. I always just used the aluminum outer pivot braces and left the inner ones plastic. This way thier still is an weak point so the chassis does not break. I found the graphite front and rear pivot blocks to be too fragile.
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Old 07-18-2007, 10:08 AM
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Aswome advice thanks! I've already switch the arms. I know what your talking about with the tapers, they don't hook up at all compaired to my friends Bow Ties. I'm not big on trying to make my own fronts so I'm probably get the studs like you said. Any thoughts on shock mounting positions? My "track" has almost no jumps(it's just a basher spot), but is really ruff, and I want to run the best I can.

Jay
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Old 07-18-2007, 12:42 PM
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I use studs in the front and bowties in rear, no sway bar, I have orange springs in rear and stock green in front. 30 or 40 weight shock oil and I use a larger bumper in front. The car handles ruts very well, not to mention you can lauch it about 5 feet in the air without bottom'n out.
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Old 07-18-2007, 01:27 PM
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where did you get a larger bumper?
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Old 07-18-2007, 03:35 PM
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If the track is hardpack and loose on the top try Proline Holeshots in M3 compound, this always worked well for me in the past and is also avaliable in 4wd fronts, bigger pin type tyres dont last very long.
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Old 07-18-2007, 04:21 PM
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It is hard packed on the bottom, but it's under about an inch or more of top soil so I need a more aggresive tire. Has anyone tried the.... GASP Tamiya 4wd tires, or MRC?

Jay
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Old 07-18-2007, 04:34 PM
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Sport, I agree with you but it is an option though I was thinking more along the lines of saving the spindles and caster blocks. I never used it myself but I broke more spindles and caster blocks than anything else. Anybody want a dozen lefts?
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Old 07-18-2007, 06:48 PM
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I'm for anything that saves right-side spindles. I have a bunch of lefts in my collection as well, and I already use the kingpin mod.
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