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Losi xxx-4

Old 02-26-2007, 06:27 PM
  #1156  
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Is it possible that i'm not getting it tight enough to begin with? We've tightened it as tight as possible but it still slips. Its not the problem of getting it to stay as much as getting it tight =/.
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Old 02-26-2007, 08:33 PM
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Noah, my xxx-4 slipper would also loosen after a drive or two. First, i would just like to recommend that you dont reverse the car then slam into forward. I have found that this will loosen a clutch quite rapidly. Also I think that it may just have took some time to "Break in"...@ first my slipper spring was very tight fiting into the gear, also it appeared that the small rings were binding inside the plastic bore area. After and few disassemblies and cleanings the parts soon fit better.. And quit coming loose...
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Old 02-27-2007, 05:04 PM
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Sounds like that might be it. I noticed that when I first built the slipper and tryed to insert it into the chassis that it was a very very tight fit. I took the slipper out and I just noticed that theres space between the slipper and the spur on the opisite side that you tighten it. Could it be I missed something in the slipper assembly? Still even when I tryed tightening it to the fullest extent I noticed that it wouldnt even come close to touching the other side of the spur. I have a freind who has a XXX-4 and he did not build his but it dose not have the same problem (his is from 2005 though). I havnt rebuilt it yet, but I plan to this weekend. It hasnt even hit the track outside yet, so I dowbt it would be too grity in there. I ran it a few times inside though. Its noticeabley slipping. The idea about locktighting it after I get it tight enough will probally help though. I'm running a SS 5800 in it and do I have too much power?
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Old 02-27-2007, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Noah R.
Sounds like that might be it. I noticed that when I first built the slipper and tryed to insert it into the chassis that it was a very very tight fit. I took the slipper out and I just noticed that theres space between the slipper and the spur on the opisite side that you tighten it. Could it be I missed something in the slipper assembly? Still even when I tryed tightening it to the fullest extent I noticed that it wouldnt even come close to touching the other side of the spur. I have a freind who has a XXX-4 and he did not build his but it dose not have the same problem (his is from 2005 though). I havnt rebuilt it yet, but I plan to this weekend. It hasnt even hit the track outside yet, so I dowbt it would be too grity in there. I ran it a few times inside though. Its noticeabley slipping. The idea about locktighting it after I get it tight enough will probally help though. I'm running a SS 5800 in it and do I have too much power?
I believe the reason that you see space between the slipper and the spur gear is because the slipper actually contacts the small plastic pucks that are placed in the gear, they are what actually slips on the clutch. If you tighten the spring all the way tight and it still slips you may want to look there for any signs of grease.. If the clutch spring is tightned all the way and is becomes loose after a few passes I think that is has something to do with the spring assy...the two small rings on either side of the spring are not seated correctly or may be catching in the hub OR check to be sure that the hex screw (The piece that you tighten with the clutch tool) does not contact the silver idler arm...Check your spacers and be sure that your "L" shaped coller spacer has the shoulder towards the hub and not on the idler arm side.
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Old 03-02-2007, 03:28 AM
  #1160  
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What grease does everyone use on their thrust bearings and diffs?

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Old 03-17-2007, 12:42 AM
  #1161  
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Is there a modification you can do to stop breaking the front diff cover where it screws to the chassis?

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Old 03-17-2007, 12:51 AM
  #1162  
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Yes, I posted about it a few pages back. I actually did it the work in Feb. 06 and I haven't broken any diffcover yet







3mm carbon plates - just attach them using 4 4-40x5/16" screws.
They clamp together the chassis and diffcover, so the latter one can't break any more.
You'll have to drill the 4 holes (2 into the chassis, 2 into the diffcover) yourself, which can be a bit tricky - but using the carbon brace as a template, it shouldn't be too hard.
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Old 03-17-2007, 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by re-inferno
Yes, I posted about it a few pages back. I actually did it the work in Feb. 06 and I haven't broken any diffcover yet







3mm carbon plates - just attach them using 4 4-40x5/16" screws.
They clamp together the chassis and diffcover, so the latter one can't break any more.
You'll have to drill the 4 holes (2 into the chassis, 2 into the diffcover) yourself, which can be a bit tricky - but using the carbon brace as a template, it shouldn't be too hard.
That's it, I remember reading about it somewhere. Isn't there a website somewhere that says the sizing and has a template for the plates etc.

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Old 03-17-2007, 04:34 AM
  #1164  
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maybe.. I think i posted it over @ losibk2 too with the template.
But nobody really took notice and kept telling how many diffcovers per race got broken
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:15 AM
  #1165  
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where did you find your shock covers???
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Old 03-17-2007, 01:14 PM
  #1166  
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He posted the plans here somewhere but I'm not going to look through all these pages. However i did remember exactly where someone posted on the 4wdrc forums.

http://www.eraprise.com/4wdrc/viewtopic.php?id=856
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Old 03-18-2007, 12:44 AM
  #1167  
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Could I cut out a Graphite Battery strap and use it?


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Old 03-18-2007, 01:20 AM
  #1168  
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no, because the graphite strap is as brittle as the chassis material.

You could use glass fibre or _very_ strong alloy instead.
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Old 03-18-2007, 02:34 AM
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What about the new EA3 material? Just not sure where do go for fibre glass

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Old 03-18-2007, 03:50 AM
  #1170  
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I don't know about the EA3 material... but from what I've read here, I'd rather say no.

Generally, you need a material, that is at least as stiff as the graphite-plastic.
Because otherwise, your braces would just give a little in a crash and the graphite covers would still break.
On the other hand, you need a material that is stronger than the chassis/diff cover material, since the braces would break too otherwise.

pure cfk is the perfect material since it is stiffer and stronger too.
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