Losi xxx-4

Old 03-18-2006, 06:05 AM
  #886  
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"1. check your LHS. be prepared to snap some chassis with that."

Is this the same part as the xxx-s losi? Why would I snap chassis with it?(next thing in line to break?

As for the heavy duty belt kit, do you happen to have a part number for it? Does a certian color designate strength?

I also can't seem to find any information on the 4.5R motor in terms of max current, rev/volt. Also I cannot seem to see a comparison between the 5800's, 4300's and the 5.5R, 4.5R, and the 6.5R. I am mainly concerned with high current draw and the LiPo batteries. I have not bought the battery yet as I am waiting to see if this 4.5R motor will eat it as well as burn down the car. I know many people are running the 4300 and 5800 with the 8000mah lipo packs. Just need some good info on the 4.5R motor, which is new this year.

Does anyone make any aluminum carriers for this car? I usually beef up the carriers and leave the arms alone so they break.

I was also wondering if anyone else uses these batteries and if weight distribution was a factor with the removal of weight. If those batteries are going to be trouble with that motor I might just run 5000mah nimh batteries instead.

Does anyone know of a cell balancer that can be used with the ICE charger? All the ones I see mention what charger they go with, so I assume the charger matters with balancer?

This car looks like if someone hit me from the rear it would take out the shock, is this how it is?
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Old 03-18-2006, 11:01 AM
  #887  
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you snap the front of the chassis because when in a crash the hingepin brace is designed to snap. now running with the alu. and plastic arms lowers you chance of snapping it but the graphite arms are designed to take a beating.you will either snap a chassis or a diff case with the alu. and graphite arms.

the part # is for the front xxx-s oneway which works for the car.

the heavy duty belt kit has a yellow belt and is #LOSA3277

do you mean front carriers? if so try herealu. front hub carriers

as for weight it really levels out the car more. and they dont have 5000mAh NiMh yet.
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Old 03-18-2006, 08:15 PM
  #888  
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Usually it is the diff cover that gets it. This is also one of the items you will want to have in stock too. I just recommend getting the front brace in aluminum and leaving the rear pivot points in the front suspension plastic or graphite.
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Old 03-18-2006, 08:26 PM
  #889  
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if the brace was a little cheaper id go for it but i havent had a problem with breaking them in a while (knock on wood) i have had a problem with the hingepin pop out though. is everyone running as much kickup as possible?
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Old 03-19-2006, 12:20 AM
  #890  
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look at my post on page 29.

If you don't mind some drilling, the diff cover plates support the chassis and diff cover so that the alloy hinge pin block is safe to use - only the arms will break, which of course take a lot of a beating.
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Old 03-19-2006, 06:58 AM
  #891  
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did you make those braces. im gonna see if i can make some lexan ones but i doubt it will work.
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Old 03-19-2006, 08:30 PM
  #892  
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Just got back from socal. REALLY REALLY PISSED in practice the car was awesome. in the first qualifier the arm popped out. found out it was a broken diff case. replaced it and started the second qualifier. broke another front diff case. replaced it qualified last in the B-Main. started the race and the batt came apart. threw in a practice pack and didnt even finish. after racing there was practice. threw my car down and two laps later broken diff case! just was looking at my car and it snapped the whole chassis. i have pretty much lost my faith in this car. every time i broke the case i was at the same spot on the track. the oneway was awesome though.
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Old 03-19-2006, 11:55 PM
  #893  
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Sorry to hear that.

Where did the chassis exactly break?

As for the braces: they need to be in graphite (or high grade alloy)
Lexan braces would bend and hence still allow the diff cover to break.
With 3mm thick braces, you can use 4-40 3/8" button head screws, just drill a 2,3mm hole into both sides of the chassis - take the braces as a template.
For the chassis, you can even use longer screws with low profile Associated 4-40 nuts nside the tunnel, the pulley just clears them. (and you don't have to take out these screws anyways, just the ones that go into the diff cover.
If you crash hard enoigh that even the braces give, they wont rip out the screws and ruin your chassis but rather braak them off. This doesn't work for the diffcover however, as you wouldn't have the posibility to thighten the nuts anyways, but if you feel the srcews don't hold up, just use 5-40 instead)

I've attached a basic design template.
Attached Thumbnails Losi xxx-4-image1.gif  
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Old 03-20-2006, 06:36 AM
  #894  
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double post
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Old 03-20-2006, 06:36 AM
  #895  
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i broke where the front shocktower mounts. i cracked from the top all the way to the bottom. wheres a good place to get sheet CF?
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:38 PM
  #896  
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Rcdude,

Do you have the new or old graphite chassis. That area has been beefed up on the new chassis with some extra ribbing. You can also get VLA arms for the rear of the car now but you will have to replace your rear hubs too for it to work.
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:56 PM
  #897  
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i was running the plastic chassis. gonna pick a graphite one up tomorrow.
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Old 03-20-2006, 05:32 PM
  #898  
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My xxx4g+ is beef cake! Super strong, have full titanium screw kit, lunsford ti turnbuckle kit, RPM ball cups, all alloy pivot blocks, have used counter sunk screws with counter sunk washers to spread load strength on the shock towers. about the only thing i break is oneways. also i have not doubled the shock towers, cause the are cheaper than a chassis, but i havent broken a shocktower in a long time.
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Old 03-20-2006, 06:05 PM
  #899  
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i used to break pivot blocks but that has stopped, still running graphite, but the diff case problem is unbeleavable. thats like $30+ in one day on one part. i have about 8 rear diff cases but no fronts. losi should package them individually instead.
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Old 03-21-2006, 06:36 AM
  #900  
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Originally Posted by rcdude19641

as for weight it really levels out the car more. and they dont have 5000mAh NiMh yet.
http://search.ebay.com/5000-mah_W0QQfromZR40

I think the RC batteries are a little smaller than c-cell's,but they should work, no?

I bought some of these for my oscilliscope and they are awesome. I think they work better than regular alky batteries.

I haven't had time to get my car together and see what is needed to make it stronger. Appreciate the tips.
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