Losi xxx-4
#767

Hey, just wanted to reply, got my packs built last night and experimented. Did it both ways. W/ and w/o the extra heat shrink. Guess what, it didn't matter. Still had to pull out the dremmel. Just wondering what the tolerence's allowed from spec was allowed at the factory? My batts. were built w/ the jig so they are nice and straigt and flat. Some people say there batts. fit right in and some don't. This leads to variations in the chassis as far as I can see? By the way, 15 years ago were we not still using the stick packs?
Just kidding, that was about the time the saddles gained popularity. The first saddle I built my LHS recommended it and I've used it ever since. This is the first time I haven't had it on a pack.
BTW what if he has to take a leek?




BTW what if he has to take a leek?


#768
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)

Ran the xxx-4 last Night. Car Handled well with the Kit Set-Up and Tires at CRCRC 8 single Handled the Rip. Slipper Definitely has Issues. I have the Updated Car and It Still Cranked itself Down, I guess I will have to Deal With it According to other Drivers at the Track
My diffs were Broken in/Tightened Properly and They Fried/Feel Gritty as Can Be. Broke 2 Spindle Carriers Same side of Course Ending My Night. The Diffs will get the RTR Company "Traxxas" Thrust Assembly and I need to Locate Alluminum Spindle Carriers Because they Went WAYYY to Easy. Anyone know who has Alluminum Spindle Carriers?


#769

Somehow, "8 single" and "way too easily" don't go in the same sentence.
Talk to Jesse Robbers if you see him at the track and he can get you set up with the goods on making that car work. The diffs need to be assembled, broken in, and adjusted as you go because you're dealing with lots of traction and even more motor.
Talk to Jesse Robbers if you see him at the track and he can get you set up with the goods on making that car work. The diffs need to be assembled, broken in, and adjusted as you go because you're dealing with lots of traction and even more motor.

#771

An 8x1 for a 4wd off-road car is more motor than is used by pretty much all of the fastest electric racers in the world. Things don't break "too easily" with an 8 turn


#772
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)

The 2wd Buggies Run 10 Turns...Why Should'nt I be able to Run an 8 Turn in the 4wd? Other then the Diffs and Slipper will go Kapooie after 3 Runs
I Don't Really even like Off-Road. But, Off Road with a 4wd Is Really Fun it's Like Off-Road with Traction! You are also Talking to Someone that Went From a Corally RDX to a Losi 4wd so maybe I just Expect too Much Quality/Workmanship/Diffs that Work. I also forgot the Losi did Probably Cost half as Much. I will figure the Car Out with Time. Someone has to make Alluminum Spindle Carriers Though. I never break Cars and I did Two of them in, in one Outing and several others have Broke them also.


#773

Heck, I bet 85% of the time we don't run anything faster than a 12 or 13 turn in a 2wd car. An 8x1 is a lot of motor for an open-wheeled car..they weren't built to play bumper cars with, you'll see broken cars in the A-main at the Nationals and Worlds. If you hit something, it will break, no doubt about it.
The diff and slipper will handle the abuse with zero problems if they're built and adjusted correctly; Losi's parts quality are second to none. The XXX-4 is based on an on-road car that had more motor strapped into it on a regular basis.
The diff and slipper will handle the abuse with zero problems if they're built and adjusted correctly; Losi's parts quality are second to none. The XXX-4 is based on an on-road car that had more motor strapped into it on a regular basis.

#774

8 turn, wow!
Jared Tebo was running a checkpint 10x2 in 4w at the losi race earlier this year and he took it out because it was way too much power for the technical track and 150 foot straight.
He went to a 12x1.
Basically what it boils down to is if your able to use the power then it's a good choice. But when parts are breaking that don't "normally" break it may be time for a little less motor. Run as much motor as you can without crashing.
I usually run a 10 or 11 turn and since the XXX4's release i've only broken one spindle. But since it was a wicked crash with a car that was sideways on the straight and tried to turn around in front of me, I still dont blame the car.
Since I used to race for Corally I can say they do make nice cars and equipment, but they also break and are far from perfect. They used serpent gas car shocks and bearings until this year.
Still good cars though, just like the XXX4 is.
Use some blue thread lock on your slipper to hold the setting better if needed, but they usually hold well with out any, so check the individual parts.
Hope this helps, Jim
Jared Tebo was running a checkpint 10x2 in 4w at the losi race earlier this year and he took it out because it was way too much power for the technical track and 150 foot straight.
He went to a 12x1.
Basically what it boils down to is if your able to use the power then it's a good choice. But when parts are breaking that don't "normally" break it may be time for a little less motor. Run as much motor as you can without crashing.
I usually run a 10 or 11 turn and since the XXX4's release i've only broken one spindle. But since it was a wicked crash with a car that was sideways on the straight and tried to turn around in front of me, I still dont blame the car.
Since I used to race for Corally I can say they do make nice cars and equipment, but they also break and are far from perfect. They used serpent gas car shocks and bearings until this year.
Still good cars though, just like the XXX4 is.
Use some blue thread lock on your slipper to hold the setting better if needed, but they usually hold well with out any, so check the individual parts.
Hope this helps, Jim

#776

Well I finally got around to building the my XXX-4 these past few days, I noticed the outdrives keep sliding on the DCR one way to the point where the wheel isnt getting any power. Are there suppose to be holes in the out drives for a screw to keep them from sliding?
Thanks
-Greg
Thanks
-Greg

#777

Anybody tap the holes on the graphite parts per the losi site?
"TAP HIGH-USE SCREW LOCATIONS
Losi kindly includes a tapping screw that helps cut threads into its strong Stiffezel and graphite parts, but nothing compares to a proper tap kit when you have to make strong, clean threads. This is especially important for screw holes where screws are often loosened and tightened, such as the lower shock points on an A-arm. The well-tapped hole is less likely to be cross-threaded or stripped. Just $20 will buy you a good tap handle and all the metric and standard taps you'll ever need"
I bought a 4-40 tap for the shock screws and it seems like the hole is a bit too big. Any idea on tap sizes? Are the screws standard or metric? Any ideas? Thanks, Kevin
"TAP HIGH-USE SCREW LOCATIONS
Losi kindly includes a tapping screw that helps cut threads into its strong Stiffezel and graphite parts, but nothing compares to a proper tap kit when you have to make strong, clean threads. This is especially important for screw holes where screws are often loosened and tightened, such as the lower shock points on an A-arm. The well-tapped hole is less likely to be cross-threaded or stripped. Just $20 will buy you a good tap handle and all the metric and standard taps you'll ever need"
I bought a 4-40 tap for the shock screws and it seems like the hole is a bit too big. Any idea on tap sizes? Are the screws standard or metric? Any ideas? Thanks, Kevin

#778
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)

dmatter
I have had lots of trouble with the diffs in my xxx4, after using loktite on the slipper nut the situation improved somewhat but there were still problems. One cause of the grittiness is grease/oil from the bearings spraying onto the diff and attracting dust, Ive found that making sure i use a minimal amount of grease on the diff balls and running the bearings as dry as possible helps keep the diffs smooth for longer...hope that helps
I have had lots of trouble with the diffs in my xxx4, after using loktite on the slipper nut the situation improved somewhat but there were still problems. One cause of the grittiness is grease/oil from the bearings spraying onto the diff and attracting dust, Ive found that making sure i use a minimal amount of grease on the diff balls and running the bearings as dry as possible helps keep the diffs smooth for longer...hope that helps

#779

Hey, has anybody tried a GTB 5.5 in the xxx-4. I got one the other day. I have it in my xx-4 but will be putting it in the xxx-4 I have. I just want to test out the xx-4 I just got.
I'm assuming the thing is going to shred.
Kevin
I'm assuming the thing is going to shred.
Kevin
