W.E.D.Jim

iTrader: (17)

If you double up the shock towers keep in mind the early chassis' have been beefed up in the shock mount area because they had been breaking the mount ear off the chassis. Where the flat edge for the tower is going around the perimiter of the chassis(with no bulkhead caps), look for two bracing beams molded in on top, opposite the tower mounting side. Those braces where added to help lessen the chance of a broken $60 chassis, using ONE tower.

Be careful......, Jim

dmatter

iTrader: (2)

I am in SERIOUS Trouble I just built My Brand New xxx-4 and My Batteries Don't Fit Anyone Know what I need to Do? I am supposed to Race this thing Thursday and I can't Even get a Battery In it. HellllllllllllllllllllP.

Thanks in Advance

Dax

dmatter

iTrader: (2)

Oh yeah...they are 3800's.

csdspeed

Thanks for the info.. I also have another problem, it's with the shocks. When I run through humps, the back kinda gets thrown away and my car capsizes and lands on its top. What do I have to change or adjust in my shocks? Do I have to change shock oil, or shock springs???


dmatter: are you using it as side by side? I'm not really sure but if it's side by side maybe the batts are not aligned properly or maybe not assembled straight.

Rysuleod

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem. Another guy I know showed me that 3800s do indeed fit, but you have to remove the shrink wrap from the cells to get a decent fit.

brianhackett

your kidding right???????

there has to be a better way than to remove the only protection the batteries have?

Rysuleod

iTrader: (1)

I'm referring to the extra shrink wrap that usually goes over matched cells that protects the battery matching sticker, not the cell wrap itself.

Doughty

have a look here

http://www.doughtyuk.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=624

this is for GP3700's but the same applies for IB3800's

losirunner

You realize most people dont even run the shrink over the cells? Just the stock battery wrapper that came with em.....

knucklebusta

what I do is flip the battery holder upside down and run velcro on the holder and the batteries. Works like a charm.

Kevin

W.E.D.Jim

iTrader: (17)

I think he thought you were reffering to the origional shrink on the cells from the factory, since most racers don't add shrink to protect the labels in the first place.



...Jim

losirunner

brianhackett

Hey, thanks captian obvious! But as you can read, his original post stated absolutely nothing about the extra shrink wrap the smart builders use. I still will try Dought's method and do everything I can to protect my cells. I will thank him however for Giving an option and for clarifying.

W.E.D.Jim

iTrader: (17)

"Smart biulders"? I used to use extra shrink on my cells 15 years ago after a few years of racing, when i first started biulding my own packs. Then the manufacturers started advising against it due to heat biuld up when they spotted it at the races.

Not too mention the "Obvious" spacing issue.

Glad to try and help, Jim

Rysuleod

iTrader: (1)

I am sorry for the confusion. I related my experience poorly into text. I had some 3800 packs from 12th scale racing. I tried to assemble them into 6 cell packs and they didn't even come close to fitting in my XXX4. I sold the batteries quickly.

Later I found out that I should have removed the extra shrink I had applied. They fit, but not as nice and snug as 3300s without help from mister dremel.



I wondered why I was always so damn hot at the track. Why did no one tell me sooner about heat buildup?

p.s. Not a pic of me but I needed a visual reference!