Losi xxx-4

Old 09-04-2003, 11:57 AM
  #61  
Tech Adept
 
Jared Kirkwood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 187
Default

I might get a run or two in tonight if the track has dried out enough but if not I'll run this weekend. I can tell you by looking at them on the car that it will make the car better and stronger.
Jared Kirkwood is offline  
Old 09-09-2003, 09:04 AM
  #62  
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Chrissy C's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: U.k (Essex)
Posts: 307
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hi all,

Not sure if this has come up on this thread before, but i was wondering what sort of hop ups people have got/want for their xxx4's.

I have (at the moment) the Trinity red alloy motor mount, ballraced steering and lusford titainium. I will definately be getting the new shock towers/shafts. Is there anything else that people have done to improve the strength or handling of the car?

I raced the car on Sunday for the first time with the shocks on the back of the tower and the 1" shafts in rear as suggested on this forum. it seemed to handle the bumps alot better, and i was flashing for FTD but didn't finish as the front right hinge pin somehow came out without me even hitting anything?!?
Chrissy C is offline  
Old 09-09-2003, 09:22 PM
  #63  
Tech Regular
 
SkipGear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 418
Default

I really don't think there are any must have hopups except maybe TI turnbuckles.

The aluminum inner pivots are nice but now Losi is recommending that their team drivers not use them with the new arms that will be coming out. The new arms don't break so they want the front pivot to be the sacraficial piece, instead of the front bulkhead cap or chassis. I will still run at least the front aluminum Pivot. The rears and the front on the back side of the arm are less needed.

Threaded shocks w/nitrate shafts are nice, but not totaly needed.

The heatsink motor clamp is also another nice add on, although I still run the stock clamp.

Graphite Chassis is a luxury.

New shocktowers are a must when they are available. They make the car much more stable and much more durable. Don't get me wrong, they still break but not catastrophicly (sp?). They will fracture and allow you to finish a race.

The updated parts make the car virtually bullet proof. I watched Kinwalds car blow over on a 30' jump, land on its tail, and then tuble another 40'+ off the track, get marshaled and return to the track with no problems. It then happened 3 more times in the same heat and he finished the heat.
SkipGear is offline  
Old 09-10-2003, 02:35 AM
  #64  
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Chrissy C's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: U.k (Essex)
Posts: 307
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I agree that the shock towers will be a great help. I have a question on them though. These towers not only lower the CofG, but allow you to run more droop enabling you to run the car softer (i think thats what i read!) On off road cars is the droop controlled by the limiters inside the shock ie a 2mm spacer inside the shock equates to 2mm of droop (its a lot easier on them TC's) What sort of droop do you usually run and what circumstances on the track would make you change it?

I think thats enough questions for now!

Thanks

Chris
Chrissy C is offline  
Old 09-10-2003, 08:53 AM
  #65  
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
 
J.Filipow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,693
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

[QUOTE]Originally posted by SkipGear
[B]

The aluminum inner pivots are nice but now Losi is recommending that their team drivers not use them with the new arms that will be coming out. The new arms don't break so they want the front pivot to be the sacraficial piece, instead of the front bulkhead cap or chassis. I will still run at least the front aluminum Pivot. The rears and the front on the back side of the arm are less needed.


Skip- thanks for that tip, as I haven't heard about that yet. I am running the 3rd generation arms right now, on two cars- one with the aluminum pivots/braces and one without; no problems yet...

Chrissy C- The towers are the best upgrade right now...and turnbuckles as mentioned. Are you running a one-way? Or have you tried one yet?
J.Filipow is offline  
Old 09-10-2003, 09:00 AM
  #66  
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Chrissy C's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: U.k (Essex)
Posts: 307
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

hi mate,

I have not tried a one way yet. I have not really had a lot of chance to practice with the car as i have only just got back in to off road and limited numbers in the UK means less meetings.

I will definately try a one way once i have learnt a bit more about the cars handling and set up
Chrissy C is offline  
Old 09-10-2003, 10:07 AM
  #67  
Tech Regular
 
SkipGear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 418
Default

I forgot about the one-way, I guess I take it for granted.

The one-way helps a lot on a grooved or well maintained track. If you are running on a rough, rutty or loamy track, running the front diff is fine, just for the durability factor. Some say that with the front diff in the front, the car pushes too much, but in the aforementioned track conditions, a little push isn't a bad thing.

I ran the steel diff in the front with the plastic diff (with outdrive savers) in the rear at our track with good luck. (www.dcrcr.com) Running both diffs on a track with big air also helps in flying the car.

As far as the droop question, the instructions that come with the towers give a suggested starting point on the internal limiting you should use. The new towers really only gives you more front downtravel (droop). The rear is limited by the dogbone. You can't add anymore droop to the rear without chancing ejecting the dogbone from the diff socket. I think they reccomend .050 limiting on the rear with the new towers, shocks on the inside hole of the arm with a 1.0 shaft. Front with the shocks on the inside hole requires removing of the uptravel limits and placing .090 limiting inside I think.

As far as more or less droop. The rougher the track, the more downtravel usually. Limiting downtravel on a clay, grooved, high bite track can control weight transfer and change steering and traction of the car. Limiting the front will tend to give more on power steering by allowing less wieght to transfer to the rear under power.
SkipGear is offline  
Old 09-10-2003, 11:21 AM
  #68  
Tech Adept
 
Jared Kirkwood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 187
Default

Originally posted by SkipGear
Limiting the front will tend to give more on power steering by allowing less wieght to transfer to the rear under power.
For the most part that is a true statement however on some tracks where there is alot of grip I find that add limiting (reducing downtravel) to the front shocks just takes away steering when accelerating off the corners.

What happens is when the power is laid down the inside front wheel starts lifting off the ground and then steering traction is reduced. Adding downtravel actually helps the front stay planted and thus adds steering. I've found this to be true on two high traction tracks that are both fairly smooth.

Downtravel changes
Also it's important to note that downtravel changes as you change front and rear pivots. The new recommended limiting settings are for 7.5F and -1R. When moving from 7.5F to 10F you have to add internal limiting if want to keep your downtravel the same. When moving from -1R to 1R or 3R you have to remove limiting to keep the downtravel the same.
Jared Kirkwood is offline  
Old 09-10-2003, 11:26 AM
  #69  
Tech Adept
 
Jared Kirkwood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 187
Default

Originally posted by SkipGear
The one-way helps a lot on a grooved or well maintained track. If you are running on a rough, rutty or loamy track, running the front diff is fine, just for the durability factor. Some say that with the front diff in the front, the car pushes too much, but in the aforementioned track conditions, a little push isn't a bad thing.
I can't drive the car without a oneway. I've tried it serveral times and a full diff setup just doesn't fit my style of driving.
Jared Kirkwood is offline  
Old 09-10-2003, 12:40 PM
  #70  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
cartmen34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 848
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally posted by Jared Kirkwood
I can't drive the car without a oneway. I've tried it serveral times and a full diff setup just doesn't fit my style of driving.
That's funny, I can't seem to drive a car WITH a one-way! I've tried it several times, but it just doesn't seem to fit my style of driving. lol
cartmen34 is offline  
Old 09-10-2003, 01:28 PM
  #71  
Tech Adept
 
Jared Kirkwood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 187
Default

I knew someone would say that.
Jared Kirkwood is offline  
Old 09-10-2003, 11:33 PM
  #72  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 93
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally posted by Jared Kirkwood
I can't drive the car without a oneway. I've tried it serveral times and a full diff setup just doesn't fit my style of driving.
Has Losi come out with a one-way specifically for the XXX-4 yet? I was using XXX-S ones, but they kept breaking on me
zxracing is offline  
Old 09-11-2003, 02:54 AM
  #73  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
Painy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 2,518
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I use outdrive savers on my oneway. i havent broken the oneway yeat..thank god


mind you the savers are cut down to size.
Painy is offline  
Old 09-11-2003, 09:31 AM
  #74  
Tech Adept
 
Jared Kirkwood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 187
Default

Originally posted by zxracing
Has Losi come out with a one-way specifically for the XXX-4 yet? I was using XXX-S ones, but they kept breaking on me
Unfortantly no.

I scored the outdrives where they ride on the two way bearing with a hobby knife. What this done was provide more "grip" for the outdrive to hold onto the bearing and it prevents the outdrive from moving in and out. What seems to break the oneway bearing is the in and out play of the outdrive. When you elimate that play you increase the life of the oneway bearing.

I've went serveral weeks now without any problems but I've gone that long before. The question is if it will still work a month from now.

Last edited by Jared Kirkwood; 09-11-2003 at 09:39 AM.
Jared Kirkwood is offline  
Old 09-11-2003, 11:14 AM
  #75  
Tech Regular
 
SkipGear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 418
Default

The one-way breakage issue is not unique to the XXX-4. Every 4wh I have ever ran with one-way bearings (starting with they original Yokomo Dogfighter) ate the oneways like they were candy. It is just part of the regular maintainance.

As far as the outdrive savers?? The factory one-ways come with an outdrive saver built in. There is no need to put additional outdrive savers on them. The aluminum ring they come with is more than adequate. I have yet to see the outdrive itself break. We are talking about breaking the one-way bearing. If you are breaking the outdrive, there are other issues.

Make sure you drive pins on the dogbone end of the CVD are not hitting the saver ring. Many of the bones need to have a few thousands ground off of them to allow them to have full freedom of movement without binding. This could cause the breakage issues.
SkipGear is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.