Losi xxx-4
#46

Originally posted by Dingus
For those in Europe. I sent over a few pairs of my arms (see link below) to a team that was looking for a more laid down front shock position for the grass tracks.
I haven't gotten a lot of feedback, and I primarily race on looser tracks.
Have a look if you haven't seen these yet. I've got about 60 pair of these in circulation with very good results so far.
www.dpmracing.com
For those in Europe. I sent over a few pairs of my arms (see link below) to a team that was looking for a more laid down front shock position for the grass tracks.
I haven't gotten a lot of feedback, and I primarily race on looser tracks.
Have a look if you haven't seen these yet. I've got about 60 pair of these in circulation with very good results so far.
www.dpmracing.com


#47

Losi is coming out with new stronger parts. According to Hodge's statment they are still playing with it stenghtening it up.

#49

Some of you have posted concerns of the slipper tightening. Mine was also doing experencing these problems.
Here's the fix that worked for me.
1) Use the shims that are included with the slipper assembly to space the slipper in a position that the belt does not ride against the slipper tightening nut. In my case I simply moved on shim to the left side of the slipper housing/spur gear.
2) Next place a drop of BLUE locktite on the slipper nut. Let it dry before assembling the slipper. If you don't wait it to dry it maybe very hard for you to readjust the slipper at a later time.
3) Buld the slipper as instructed in the manual.
Here's the fix that worked for me.
1) Use the shims that are included with the slipper assembly to space the slipper in a position that the belt does not ride against the slipper tightening nut. In my case I simply moved on shim to the left side of the slipper housing/spur gear.
2) Next place a drop of BLUE locktite on the slipper nut. Let it dry before assembling the slipper. If you don't wait it to dry it maybe very hard for you to readjust the slipper at a later time.
3) Buld the slipper as instructed in the manual.

#50

Yes, there are two additional lower mounting holes. The two center holes are the same as the std Losi arms.

#51
Tech Rookie

Is anyone running an aluminium front one way? Jesse robbers had some aluminium outdrives this weekend and wondering if he is running a oneway.
I bought the XXX-S one way and broke it in 60 feet with one small hit. pretty expensive, not to mention the outdrives failing which are $27 a piece.
I would like to run the oneway, but want something strong. I have heard there is someone in Europe making an aluminium front one way??
Any suggestions is appreciated,
Thanks,
Nick
I bought the XXX-S one way and broke it in 60 feet with one small hit. pretty expensive, not to mention the outdrives failing which are $27 a piece.
I would like to run the oneway, but want something strong. I have heard there is someone in Europe making an aluminium front one way??
Any suggestions is appreciated,
Thanks,
Nick

#52

Adams - What you saw in Jesse's car was a plastic front diff with TI outdrive savers from Trinity. He later ran the oneway but he runs stock parts.
More than likely what caused your outdrive failure was the dogbone pins hitting the saver rings. In order to run the XXX-S oneway in the XXX-4 you must grind down the ends of the dogbone pin so that they do not interfere with the aluminum saver ring. If you don't, one of two things can happen:
1. The bone pops the saver ring off and you break an outdrive.
2. The bone wedges in between the ring and the outdrive and pulls the outdrive assembly out of the one way. This usually happens upon landing from a jump or in bumps when the car is in full compression and you are on the gas. When the outdrive pulls partially out of the one way while the oneway is under load, it destroys the one way.
One way's do break. The replacement one way halves are available for $10 each I think. You can't be on the gas when landing off of a jump with the oneway.
As far as the aluminum one way. One of the onroad aftermarket companies was researching it but I never heard if they went a head and made them. You really don't need aluminum outdrives, the only thing that needs to be improved on is the one way needs to be larger and heavier duty. The plastic doesn't break, the metal oneway does.
More than likely what caused your outdrive failure was the dogbone pins hitting the saver rings. In order to run the XXX-S oneway in the XXX-4 you must grind down the ends of the dogbone pin so that they do not interfere with the aluminum saver ring. If you don't, one of two things can happen:
1. The bone pops the saver ring off and you break an outdrive.
2. The bone wedges in between the ring and the outdrive and pulls the outdrive assembly out of the one way. This usually happens upon landing from a jump or in bumps when the car is in full compression and you are on the gas. When the outdrive pulls partially out of the one way while the oneway is under load, it destroys the one way.
One way's do break. The replacement one way halves are available for $10 each I think. You can't be on the gas when landing off of a jump with the oneway.
As far as the aluminum one way. One of the onroad aftermarket companies was researching it but I never heard if they went a head and made them. You really don't need aluminum outdrives, the only thing that needs to be improved on is the one way needs to be larger and heavier duty. The plastic doesn't break, the metal oneway does.

#54

nikos2002,
I didn't get to attend the nationals this year because I'm building a house and I couldn't justify the vacation expenses associated with the cost of the races while in the build process. It's funny thing but I guess money only stretches so far.
I have some of the new shock towers from Homer in the mail I expect to have them today or tomorrow so I will be able to try them out. But from my conversations with Robbers we will like these. Not only did they hold up great at the nationals but they also provided a couple performance benifets.
Jesse says they make the car more stable and the car is less prone to bottoming out because of the slightly more progressive suspension travel with the shocks mounted lower. When you put the shocks on you will need to do a few things.
Front: Don't use external limiting and then limit the front by about .090" if you are running the inside hole on the front shock tower with 7.5 kick up.
Rear: Change to the 1.0 shock shaft and use .050" limiting if your running on the inside hole on the arm but I'm not sure what rear anti-squat that is with.
I believe I got that right but they said all the details about the changes are included with the towers as a supplement to the manual.
With the shocks mounted on the rear I noticed my car has less rear "chatter" around the track and it also flies a bit better in the air. I have also been using the Losi High downforce wing on the car. I think that helps alot too even on a smaller track.
I didn't get to attend the nationals this year because I'm building a house and I couldn't justify the vacation expenses associated with the cost of the races while in the build process. It's funny thing but I guess money only stretches so far.

I have some of the new shock towers from Homer in the mail I expect to have them today or tomorrow so I will be able to try them out. But from my conversations with Robbers we will like these. Not only did they hold up great at the nationals but they also provided a couple performance benifets.
Jesse says they make the car more stable and the car is less prone to bottoming out because of the slightly more progressive suspension travel with the shocks mounted lower. When you put the shocks on you will need to do a few things.
Front: Don't use external limiting and then limit the front by about .090" if you are running the inside hole on the front shock tower with 7.5 kick up.
Rear: Change to the 1.0 shock shaft and use .050" limiting if your running on the inside hole on the arm but I'm not sure what rear anti-squat that is with.
I believe I got that right but they said all the details about the changes are included with the towers as a supplement to the manual.
With the shocks mounted on the rear I noticed my car has less rear "chatter" around the track and it also flies a bit better in the air. I have also been using the Losi High downforce wing on the car. I think that helps alot too even on a smaller track.

#56

They are in stock at Horizon last time I checked. I have 3 of each setting in front of me thanks to Homer at the Tiltyard.

#57

Correction...the front towers are in stock at horizon. The rear towers (LOSA2206) are still not listed.

#58

J. -- bad news, can't make it this weekend to Minnreg - work sucks, but if I want 10 days off for the worlds I better work now. Hope everything goes good this weekend at Minnreg - e-mail me what set up you used and motor info. -- that is what I was going to play with this weekend, I'll just sit at work and image all the practice time I am missing. GOOD LUCK!!
Nick
Nick

#59

These new shock towers sound good! Haven't posted anything here lately as i haven't raced off road for over a month
. I have changed my rear shocks to the 1" shaft and moved the shocks to the rear of the tower and will see how this works out.
Are these new shock towers the thick fibre glass ones? i have heard a little about them. Does any one on this thread have a picture of them they can post (would be interesting to see your cars as well
)
Jared, let us know how those new shock towers work out, are you off roading this weekend?

Are these new shock towers the thick fibre glass ones? i have heard a little about them. Does any one on this thread have a picture of them they can post (would be interesting to see your cars as well

Jared, let us know how those new shock towers work out, are you off roading this weekend?
