Losi xxx-4

Old 02-15-2004, 06:29 PM
  #331  
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Good to hear that. I've got some on order with my LHS. Friday night I just yanked the pin right out of an alimunum one. And running and 11 turn probably didn't help Funny thing though is I haven't had that problem with the aluminum ones in my XXXS. I'm sure it's because there's no impacts from landing with the sedan. It's a much smoother application of power.
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Old 02-16-2004, 02:17 AM
  #332  
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The aluminum cvd in general isn't bad, its just when you put them on a xxx4 they wear out really fast. I would say its because there is a lot more movement in the suspension compared to a touring car.
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Old 02-16-2004, 12:26 PM
  #333  
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On a TC the front cvd's wear out faster than the rear cvd's, because the steering turns which puts more movement into them and the front end also takes more abuse when crashing or whatnot. The same goes for the front of a 4wd off-road car but off-road in general is harder on drivetrain and suspension parts than a TC is where TC is harder on motor and batteries. You can put steel cvd's in, they will last longer b/c steel is a lot harder than aluminum, but if you are a serious racer than you will want the alum front cvd's for sure.
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Old 02-16-2004, 12:35 PM
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I just don't think the added weight will be noticable when we're running on a track that's as small as we are and we've got power to spare. Running an 11 turn on this track, you can barely touch full throttle for a split second down the back straight befor eit's time to let off for the sweeper. I can see if I wer running stock it being a disadvantage but who would run stock in a 4wd buggy?
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Old 02-16-2004, 02:10 PM
  #335  
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When is that new tensioner going to be available?
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Old 02-16-2004, 02:16 PM
  #336  
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I heard a couple of weeks
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Old 02-17-2004, 01:51 PM
  #337  
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Default one-way diff testing

testing continues on the new proto-type (one-way diff combo) for the front of the xxx-4 or the xxx-s) so far everything is going ok, no problems with it at all, the only thing that is difficult about it is adjusting it, you need some small tools to do it with. there is a fine line between too tight and too loose. If everything goes well with it in the next month i will start producing them. If you have any ?'s about it you can leave me a e-mail at [email protected]
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Old 02-17-2004, 02:06 PM
  #338  
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I may have missed your description about this earlier. What is the idea behind the combo diff/one way? What are you trying to gain from it? Seems to me that the oneway outdrives would take up any and all differential speeds between the front wheels and the diff would never get a chance to work. I may be wrong though because I've obviously never tried it. Sounds like an interesting idea though.
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Old 02-17-2004, 08:16 PM
  #339  
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Unless you're a super serious stock racer more or less weight doesn't mean much for acceleration. For everyone else weight is all about how the car handles, lighter parts here, add weight in other spots, or move weight to make it handle differently. You are right though, more motor like never determines who wins in off-road, it's all about handling and driveability.
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Old 02-18-2004, 07:44 AM
  #340  
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The reason for the (one-way,diff combo) is to help in the corners with speed, i you think about it with the one-way only in the front both wheels spin at the same rate so when going around corners there is always some push because the outer wheel cannot spin faster than the inner wheel which it needs to, with only the diff you loose the ability to only brake with the rear wheels which acts like a 2wd, with both in the front you get the best of both worlds in my opinion, i have found out that you can push it harder in the corners, also when you land off jumps if there is a little slip in the front you wont put as much stress on the one-way bearings which could help in longevity, still testing though will know more in a few months.
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Old 02-18-2004, 08:44 AM
  #341  
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Well the point of a one way is that the outside wheel CAN spin faster that the inside wheel and do so completely independantly of the inside wheel so the inside wheel won't unload, casuing the front end to wash out when. This is how it aids in steering. I can see how having the diff there would aid in longetivity like you said but I just still don't see how it can help in cornering. One ways don't make the car push. It's the exact opposite. Personally, I like running a diff in the front. I like having the 4 wheel braking. It allows me to be more aggresive and on the very tight and narrow local track I run on, you need to be able to slow very quickly. I run oneways in my sedans an they increase corerspeed tremendously.
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Old 02-18-2004, 08:51 AM
  #342  
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That is not possible with the one-way it is just like running a spool both wheels when accelerating will always spin the same rate the outer wheel cannot spin faster unless you are off of the throttle.
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Old 02-18-2004, 09:36 AM
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yeah, but when your on the throttle in a turn, its going to usually be in a sweeper, where a spool will pull the car through the sweeper very fast. But when you let off the power, it releases the out side tire in the tight sections allowing the car to rotate around the tighter corners.
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Old 02-23-2004, 05:44 PM
  #344  
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new to the xxx4 forum. just got a xxx4G+ and wanted some setting suggestions. I run at SoCal raceway. Tight, technical track with hardpacked wettish dirt/clay. I built the car with the stock settings and had no on-power steering and the car would get thrown around on the bumps. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:00 PM
  #345  
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First you need to get the right tires, last I heard pink X-2000's worked best there but square fuzzies also work good too then for front tires you should ask a Losi factory driver what to run for 4wd fronts. You can try moving your battery forward, put a plastic diff in the rear, put some Losi dogbones in the rear, then maybe 25wt rear oil. If you have your left rear arm on left side then definately run the hubs centered, if you have left arm on right side then run hubs back.
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