jakes7

Yes the carbon fiber peice comes with spacers for the rear shock tower.

SrRC

iTrader: (3)

I have had the same problem!!

I was able to lock tight my aduster nut and it seems to be holding.
Not sure what will happen if I have to work on it,however I did use some blue assoc lock tight--was told it can be removed it needed. The tough part is setting the slipper before the lock tight
sets up--what I did was test the car on carpet to make sure the diffs were set correctly--this was done with the sliiper set to not slip,than I removed the gear cleaned eerything and put a little
lock tight on the nut, After reinstalling the gear I did another carpet test and set the slipper so the buggy accelerated hard and had a little slip--about 2 feet. This must be done before the lock tight sets up.

A friiend of mine talked wirh Matt f. at the stock nats and he suggested replacing the nut and hub.

My race Sunday wasn"t the best--lost a frt wheel early in the main,"ouch" . Was able to runs with the winner after a pit stop.
ended up 5th out of seven cars.

Chrissy C

iTrader: (1)

I was wondering if anybody used internal spacers in their shocks to limit the shock travel, I know that as per instructions the rear have some already but has anyone added to these?

I noticed that when you pick the car up the wishbones obviously hang down but what worried me was that the driveshafts seem really close to coming out of the outdrive and they seem to bind a little also. When jumping would this be a problem? My driveshafts are marked i assume from this.

If people do limit their shocks is there a losi part no. for the spacers and how much do you limit them by?

Anyone got any big meets this weekend? I am going to get some practice in for a national thats fast approaching, luckily i have just ordered a few front and rear shock towers and front arms so i can really attack the track!

YoungChazz

On the slipper situation, this may be the problem: The initial cars were produced with standard right-hand threads for the slipper nuts. It became evident this was a problem and all subsequent cars come with left-hand threads on the slipper nut. If yours are the old right-hand thread, get a set of left-hand thread and your problem will be solved. If yours is LHT already, you must be doning something wrong. Since we've converted, it's easy to adjust and stays put just fine.

On the shock travel situation, we use 1" shafts on the rear shocks (1.2" bodies). We leave about .15" or shaft protruding from the plastic eye at the bottom, and CA glue the eye onto the shaft. No inside limiters. At the front, we put three shock O-rings on the shaft outside the cartridge, with no limiters inside.

Hope this info helps.

Chrissy C

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info! Can you just clarify the shock situation for me. You say you use 1 inch shafts inside of 1.2 inch shock bodies on the rear. I take it this means new parts have to be bought as the bodies and shaft supplied in the xxx-4 kit are much longer.

Here come some more questions.....

What do these mods do for the handling characteristics?
What pistons and oil would you typically use with this set up?
Do you have part numbers to complete the change?
Apart from the 'o' rings on the outside of the shock the front is standard, is that correct?

Sorry for all the questions! hope you can help

Chris

Jared Kirkwood

Chris,

On your rear shocks just put in .210" of inner limiting and you will not have to buy any new parts.

Fast buggy

Thats what i did, but i havent driven the car without them.

Chrissy C i would try to help you with a set up but i havent spent enough time driving my xxx4 to figure out a good set up. Im getting a new graphite chasis tomorrow (i broke the stock one) so i will be able to drive it again

YoungChazz

1.2" rear shock bodies are standard with the kit -- you don't have to change this. 1.0" shafts are standard on the front of the XXX-T and rear of the buggy -- if you've got extra shafts, you're set. Otherwise, yes, you have to cough up a few $$$. How fast do you want to go?????

We've tried .210 limiters inside the standard shocks. The 1.0" shaft works better -- we think the piston tends to stay more in the middle of the shock, therefore working better.

Our shock set-up for the ROAR Stock Nats (3rd overall, winner of A-2 main) is:
FRONT: 30 oil, 57 piston standard, no limiters inside, 3 shock O-rings outside, silver spring, 2 hole on tower, outside on arm.
REAR: 30 oil, 56 piston all holes drilled to 55, no limiters inside, 1.0" shaft .15" protruding from the eye, pink spring, 2 hole on tower, inside on arm.

Track was watered sand & clay -- lots of small jumps. It was a lot like driving dirt oval, especially getting on and off the straight. Silver IFMAR pins were the hand-out tires, and they seemed right for the track.

We like this set-up for general use -- it worked at the Hot Rod Hobbies Shootout, an hard blue-groove track -- completely different from Portland

Hope this helps.

Jared Kirkwood

That setup is very similar to what I'm running. The Dunbar setup posted on Team Losi's website is also a good start.

I also run the 1" Shafts but for Chris's use while he's still learning the basics of the car he might not ever feel the different between the 1" and the 1.2" shafts provided the limiting works out to have the same shock lenght. BTW: My rear shock lenght with the 1.0" safts with the eyelet unscrewed a turn or so is 3.89".

Fast buggy

So what handling differences did you notice by limiting the travel of the suspension?

Chrissy C

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the help fellas, some good info there to be getting on with, unfortunately i didn't get a chance to read the forum before saturdays meet and manged to pop a driveshaft out off the outdrive after some pretty spectacular looking cartwheels!

Managed to TQ on saturday but i hit a upside down car after the jump at a funny angle and guess what broke....dam front shock tower!

As i race on grass the hi grip conditions are causing me a lot of problems with grip roll. I did up the spring rate to red on the back and blue on the front (oil, pistons as per kit) but i still couldn't really attack the corners. Would you suggest thicker oil or should i move the camber link to make it shorter, i've heard this might work.

Thanks for your help.

Chris

Chrissy C

iTrader: (1)

Hi all, me again!

I have just been reading a forum we have here in the UK and some Team Losi drivers, including the European champ have made a modification to their rear shocks. What they do is put the shocks behind the shock tower. I am told this means drilling a small hole in the shock tower to and cutting the rear wing. Here is the comments from the forum, see what you guys make of it...

Can anyone actually explain why mounting the rear shocks on the back of the wishbones makes a difference?
The wishbones move in exacly the same way as the pivot points don't change, there is no geometry change at-all.
The only explanation I can think of is it alters the weight distribution at the rear end.
I've found no noticable difference, unlike changing springs/oil/links ect.
I've gone back to the standard set-up because I don't want to cut chunks out of my new wing.
If there is a reason it makes a difference I'd be intersted to know what it is.

Doughty
Sr. Member

actually it does effectively move the mount point out on the wishbone...

remember the wishbones are effected by the in-board toe in...
clever eh?

basically if you look at the car from the top, the holes on the front of the rear wishbones are closer together than the ones on the rear, as the distance between the mount points on the shock tower stay the same the shocks are at more of an angle...

one other things that *I* think it could be is that having the shocks hanging off the back more gives it more pitch inertia, so it is less likely to lift the rear over a bump... but thats just an un proven theory of mine!



Sorry for all that. Do team drivers in America adopt this or do you think it is a British thing due to our tracks being mainly grass and astroturf? Do you think it would make a difference?

Cheers

Chris

Jared Kirkwood

The car stay's flatter in the turns and was more consistent and easier to drive on the track conditions.

Jared Kirkwood

I wish sometimes we raced on grass here in the states...it sounds cleaner. LOL

Anyways, if you are traction rolling and the surface is smooth I would be adding limiting, stiffening it up. Shorter links may help as well. Losi makes a new black spring I believe for the front. You might want to try that. I think it is their stiffest.

shocks behind rear tower
As for the shocks being mounted at the rear of the tower I think it only effects the weight distribution of the car. Some of the team drivers are running the car this way along with serveral of my fellow racing friends. I tried it once and didn't notice a difference in laptimes so I changed it back. I did notice the car stayed just a bit more flatter in the ribble bumps. I'll see if I can't get a hold to Jesse Robbers or another team driver to drop by the thread to post more about this subject.

Chrissy C

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for your help Jared.

Unfortunately the surface is not so smooth, there are alot of small bumps that kept unbalencing the rear of the car. It was bobbling down the straight making it very difficult to get the power down.

What would be your first few changes using the kit set up as a basis?

Thanks mate

Chris