Losi xxx-4

Old 10-24-2008, 11:03 PM
  #2206  
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i asked that question about the xxx-s spur a few months ago, but didnt get much help with it.
So i tried it using a spur from an old xxx-s i had, it can an will work, but the belt will be too tight due to the xxx-s spur-drive pulley being bigger than the xxx4 drive pulley.
I ended up super gluing all the slipper pucks and spur gear together with the slipper assembly.
You gotta be quick when you assemble it as the glue dries quick so tighten it as quick as possible and as tight as possible(watch ya fingers)
Ive been racing for months now like this in modified and all ive found is you need too watch the screws that hold the slipper into the chassis they work loose and check ya diffs, although ive yet too hav any problems with my diffs as of yet.
i also run my belt tension a little bit on the looser side it does skip a tad but hasnt given any grief this belt is a year old for mod class.
Hope this helps.
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Old 10-25-2008, 05:20 AM
  #2207  
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would a xxx-s belt help this?
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Old 10-26-2008, 02:57 AM
  #2208  
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Originally Posted by roadrashracing
the tensoners are the same
I didnt say they were different, i said the tensioner wont fit in the car if u use the xxxs spur, as in, when u put it in the car, the tensioner wont go around far enough to be able to screw it to the tunnel

Originally Posted by dirt buggy
i asked that question about the xxx-s spur a few months ago, but didnt get much help with it.
So i tried it using a spur from an old xxx-s i had, it can an will work, but the belt will be too tight due to the xxx-s spur-drive pulley being bigger than the xxx4 drive pulley.
Exactly



Originally Posted by roadrashracing
would a xxx-s belt help this?
no, the xxxs is even shorter than the xxx4 belt
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Old 10-26-2008, 09:32 AM
  #2209  
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Originally Posted by NSLST
how many versions out there? my friend's xxx 4G+ comes with 4 light alumi CVDs, and mine comes with front LCD/ rear XXX CR style . thanks.
I think you will be better off with the lcds and the losi axles in the rear. The lcds make the buggy turn sharper and faster i think.
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:58 AM
  #2210  
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I did get the xxx-s gear to work, just ground and little bit and the tensor worked.

Does anyone make a strong shock tower the the stock one.
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Old 10-26-2008, 04:46 PM
  #2211  
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could someone post the part number for the front lcd's i am running the alum cvd's and would like to give them a shot
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Old 10-26-2008, 05:02 PM
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sup biggens....losa3228....they should work well at mccullougs.
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Old 10-26-2008, 07:45 PM
  #2213  
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i read this article on losis site and was wondering where you can get the arms and shock tower braces from.

http://losi.com/Articles/Article.aspx?ArticleID=1349
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Old 10-27-2008, 07:53 AM
  #2214  
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I used the LCDs for the first time this weekend and kept having problems with the cvds pins tearing through the holes in the tube joint. The steel for the tube joint seems to be too thin and the holes for pins are too close to the edge.

Are there any tricks to building the LCDs?
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Old 10-27-2008, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by slow
I used the LCDs for the first time this weekend and kept having problems with the cvds pins tearing through the holes in the tube joint. The steel for the tube joint seems to be too thin and the holes for pins are too close to the edge.

Are there any tricks to building the LCDs?


I was having the same problem also and decided to run CVDS, no problems with them.
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Old 10-27-2008, 11:08 AM
  #2216  
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Originally Posted by roadrashracing
i read this article on losis site and was wondering where you can get the arms and shock tower braces from.

http://losi.com/Articles/Article.aspx?ArticleID=1349

That was a long time ago... those shock towers were from the original XXX-4 and there were also some graphite versions as well... you'd be better off updating to the newer shock towers used in the XXX-4G+. They are cut graphite rather than the molded composite.

I remember those old ones.. broke very easy...

Just remember to move your rear shocks to the back of the arms like the G+.

Losi also updated the graphite arms on the G+... they hardly ever break.. they have more ribbing in it to add strength.

Download a G+ exploded parts view for the part numbers. They are all still available.

http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/x...plodedView.pdf

Jerome
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Old 10-27-2008, 10:34 PM
  #2217  
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Originally Posted by slow
I used the LCDs for the first time this weekend and kept having problems with the cvds pins tearing through the holes in the tube joint. The steel for the tube joint seems to be too thin and the holes for pins are too close to the edge.

Are there any tricks to building the LCDs?
Yeah i used the lcd's at one meeting, i had the same problem, so they went in the bin and i now use the cvds also
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Old 10-27-2008, 11:05 PM
  #2218  
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You guys that are having problems with the lcd's, are you running a diff or a oneway in the front? I ran a diff in front and didn't have any problems with my lcd's this summer. I'm wondering if the stress of the oneway is causing the problems?
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Old 10-28-2008, 09:52 AM
  #2219  
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I'm running a steel diff up front.

I'm wondering if there needs to be a little more gap in the ball and socket. If this is too tight that could cause the pins to pull out.
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Old 10-28-2008, 06:06 PM
  #2220  
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i had the same pin problem w/ LCD. that piece of "tube" seems too weak to handle jumps. i just got my orders in and now i am using DUCK tape to take around that "tube" to prevent from losing pins again. (will be better off with a section of heat shink tube, but can't find one of right size)
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