andrew222

hey guys! I just won a xxx-4 on e-bay! Right, but I've been reading up about a lot and I found out that a lot of people were having problems with the carriers. Does anyone know where I can find some aluminum ones or at least the screw kits that help distribute the force on the stock carriers? Thanks in advance!

morris

iTrader: (44)

[QUOTE=Clippy;4379115]I run 7.5, 6.5, and 5.5 LRP X11 with Sphere speedies (never any need for anything else in mod) I always gear to temp. Took a bit of ground work initially as you need to start low so you don't over heat the motor. But basically you want it running at around 150F NEVER more that 160F at the end of a 5 minute race. Currently have the 94t spur installed and use either 15 or 16t pinion. This combo I use for every track within an hour drive of me (Yes, all 4 )



thx for the info...looks like i will have to buy a different brushless motor.alls i have to use is a 3.5 and a 10.5....lol

thx though

afish

iTrader: (23)

u might be ok with the 10.5

sport10

The oneway was fitted to get this buggy to steer better. Oneways make 4wds steer like 2wd off power and on breaking. On power they lockup like a spool and give excellent forward traction. Oneways are usually faster but harder to drive. You would probably not be able to notice if the front was overdriven by spinning the wheels. The difference is only one tooth on the gear.

macr0w

Thanks for the heads up. I think the rear end was slipping badly.

After taking the rear apart and putting it back together I see that I may need some new bearings in the diff cup. I just put some grease in there to hold the bearings and put it back together tightening it up as tight as I could get it.

Now it seems pretty cool. It's alot more powerful and fast. Not very durable though. I broke 2 front shock towers and a shock rod end. Then I knocked the front end apart. I guess I need to stop crashing and doing those end over end cartwheels.

I was looking at Losipartshouse trying to figure out what parts I need for the front and rear diffs. There are alot of parts in there. I guess I should use the exploded view to buy the right parts huh?

Now my esc is shutting down. When I get in the throttle hard it just stops. It gives me a solid blue and alternating yellow and red lights for a few seconds then it's ready to go again. But it will stop again as soon as I get back on it. I'm going to check out the LRP website and see what they can tell me.

sport10

Get an aluminum front pivot when you get the chance. Losi makes them. This is really the major weakpoint of this buggy once it is taken care of the buggy is pretty durable IMO. Maybe double up the front shock tower too.

Alltapdout

iTrader: (2)

@ andrew222...Check out the page just before this one. There should be helpful information posted there, about king-pins, and carriers.

Team Hoagie

iTrader: (7)

I make the screw kits for $7 shipped anywhere in the lower 48 states.

Derrick Hochgesang
Team Hoagie Designs (THD)
Custom R/C Products
[email protected]
Click Here for Products

macr0w

What kind of shocks are you running on that thing?

It looks good too BTW.

MrLesac

iTrader: (28)

correct me if im wrong, but thoes look like losi shocks, with blue threaded collars, on the red car.

hobbipro

iTrader: (23)

Whats the trick to the new front molded outdrives with the aluminum drive rings on them? When the suspension is not compressed on a stand, and I rotate the wheels the dog bone hits the aluminum ring, makes a clicking noise. What do I have to do to make these work correctly? My front bones are the stock aluminum ones, are there longer ones or something?

Tim W.

iTrader: (1)

Yes, they are losi shocks with blue threaded collars

This season so far I am liking my xxx-4 over my xx-4 WE on our current track layout. The xxx-4 is a great car.

Team Hoagie

iTrader: (7)

I heard of that issue a lot from other racers that had them. I think they just dealt with it. I think Losi actually grooved out the outdrive to make them stay on, so that reduced the diameter just a little. That was a benefit to using my aluminum sleeves. Much more reliable and they don't reduce the diameter at the end like the rings do. The rings have a tendance of popping off during a race and rattling on the drive shaft.

Derrick Hochgesang
Team Hoagie Designs (THD)
Custom R/C Products
[email protected]
Click Here for Products

Strong Bad

iTrader: (1)

That clicking your hearing is most likely the pin on the inner part of the CVD/LCD or whatever axle you are running catching on the saver ring. It is most likely happening at full downtravel or full uptravel. This may not seem a big deal but it can lead to many headaches if not fixed. The best thing to do is to CAREFULLY grind the inner drive pins on their ends so they can pass through the saver rings without catching on the drivepins. I do this by taking the CVD and grinding on the inner pins until they will slide in and out without it being assembled on the spindle. Another thing to do is to very slightly grind the sides of the pin so they flatten alittle so they will slide around in the outdrive smoothly. Be sure to debur the grinding you do or it will lead to excessive wear on the ring and the outdrive itself. If the pins can catch on the outdrive rings then in can break the outdrive at worst and at minimum bend up those aluminum rings (they are very soft aluminum and do bend easily) in the case of breakage in the front end (usually a camber link or arm). This is pretty much a good idea if you run any sort of saver ring such as the old Trinity blue aluminum ones or especially the Trinity Titanium savers because they ridiculous tough and will just tear off the end of the outdrive and start rattling around on the CVD which can lead to all kinds of bad. Hope that helps.

macr0w

Man, yesterday afternoon I jumped this thing headfirst into a concrete step.

Needless to say it did some damage. I need to replace one of the front hingepins I believe.

Things are not lining up like they did before.