Drew Manzella

iTrader: (35)

I admit I haven't seen a B44 in person but I have driven a BJ4 as well as fixed some stuff on it (loose hardware and such) and I do know that it does not have a slipper on the spur. I ASSumed that the B44 didn't either since the driveline is basically the same. My mistake - I stand corrected.

Yeah. My XXX-4 is actually Roger's old one. He and I concocted the deal so that we would be 2/3rds of the way there to a 4WD electric class. It sounds like Zach is in as well. He just needs to decide what car to get but as of Monday it sounded like he was leaning towards the ZX-5.

BobWoodhouse

iTrader: (24)

After I put loctite on the hex flange and it dries [edit: I thread it on, then it dries, not like I let it dry and then thread it on], it seems like it can still be adjusted -- you still have loctite stuff in the threads and it seems to hold its place. Would 64-pitch be more likely to strip under the power? I don't think slipping via the diff is very fantastic.

Best

Drew Manzella

iTrader: (35)

Nah. All the onroad stuff is 64 pitch nowadays and they run serious brushless in them with no issue. In fact I seem to recall reading something a while back that with 64 pitch the contact area is larger and as a result the stress is spread out more than it is on the larger pitch gears. This was explained that since the teeth are smaller, there are more of them in contact at the same time and since the change in size isn't half the total area is actually larger.

There are plenty of cars that do it that way so I doubt it will be an issue. You are supposed to set up the diffs to have some slip anyway so in reality the slipper is probably just some added insurance.

BobWoodhouse

iTrader: (24)

Well, is anyone finding that they break a front pivot support or a front diff cover or something and then finding a spare (other than in your spares bucket) is a pain. I was OK with staying with the xxx4, eventhough it can be tricky on certain washboard sections, eventhough the B44 is out, eventhough the xxx4 is older now. But the difficulty finding ordinary spares is putting me off.

To me, the table is now open to new ideas -- going just to 2-wheel (perhaps favoring the B4 over the xxx-cr in light of xxx4spares experience, although I love the Losi shocks), going B44, x5,.... Don't know. I only race enough to justify one car at a time (I only have a xxx4 right now) -- it does not have to be the shiniest car on the block, but I have to be able to support it. Who else is thinking this way?

Drew Manzella

iTrader: (35)

Horizon has the parts in stock:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSA9749
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSA1232

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSA9896

The only thing I have seen them out of stock on is the Invader body.

If your LHS is a Horizon retailer have them order them. I placed an order for parts today at the shop here and I'll have them Monday (Largely due to the holiday tomorrow).

My feeling has ALWAYS been to stock my own spares instead of relying on someone else to do it. Certainly you don't need a complete car's worth of parts but it doesn't take long to figure out what parts break the most frequently.

BobWoodhouse

iTrader: (24)

Good find on the 9896. I have had one LHS have them on backorder for the last 5 weeks. Also, LPH was out.

br93lx

iTrader: (1)

I would think the diffs in the XXX-4 would hold up to not having a slipper. We used to run our XX-4's with the street weapon non slipper shaft. I was always anal retentive about rebuilding the diffs after every session anyway so it didn't add any work to the process, though you had to watch the front belt more.

I do run my X-5 with the slipper a little loose. Our track is loose year round since it's indoors.

Drew, nice to see you here. I've always enjoyed your post on C-C.com.

Drew Manzella

iTrader: (35)

That is sort of my thought on the matter as well. I used to run some serious motors in my XXX-S and never had any driveline failures. I have to believe that carpet is a whole lot more stressful on a driveline than dirt given that the friction coefficient is much higher.

I am betting that from a performance standpoint the slipper provides a single point of adjustment for traction whereas using the diffs ups the complexity a little but I believe it will work fine.

I finally got fed up with "the big site" and registered here. It has "tech" in the name so that is a step up already. There is also a whole lot more English spoken here.

br93lx

iTrader: (1)

I always used the esc to dial out some of the punch to counter not having a slipper. The XX-4 was totally different without it. It took almost two ounces out of the rotating mass by switching to the aluminum non slipper shaft and the aluminum counter shaft. It made the car launch so much better and you could get great corner exit speed. It was much quicker, but still didn't have the same punch as a XXX-4. When I did have a XXX-4 I always ran it locked and never broke the HD belt in two years.

gene465

iTrader: (51)

Bob, put the front and rear aluminum pivots supports in and you won't have to worry about breaking them anymore! Just stock up on the front diff cover and bumper though!

raceGEEK

iTrader: (5)

im thinking about running my xxx4 for a while. its been sitting on the bench for a while and it makes me sad. so i need to get some aluminum pivot blocks, and losi parts house doesn't seem to have the inner mounts. i might be missing something. but any way, these things are damn pricey, so who has them for the best price? anyone want to sell me a used set

BobWoodhouse

iTrader: (24)

I was also thinking of getting thealuminum inner pivot mounts for the front. I can't find those now either.

NJA82

iTrader: (33)

Guys, stormer hobbies have the alluminum pivots in stock, they dont seem to have the 7.5 degree front pivots though, If you are going to buy them i would only suggest the front pivot and the rear pivot, not the inner pivots because if you have them to strong they will crack the chassis with hard impact, the front and rear pivot blocks are attached to the diff covers, they are a lot cheaper to replace than a graphite chassis.

BobWoodhouse

iTrader: (24)

I would rather fiddle with bolting aluminum INNER pivots on with nylon bolts or something (to save the chassis) than to continue buying these parts packs where I have a million spare outer pivot supports and several right-side parts, since it is usually the left side that gets it.

Plus, I search for losa9670 on Stormer, and it doesn't show up, eventhough it is in the picture for losa9671

Turbo Joe

iTrader: (41)

My experience was that the front or rear outer aluminum blocks would tear the gear cover off the chassis with a decent hit...bye-bye chassis. If you don't have the aluminum pivots, the plastic outers break with a bad landing.

The inner blocks shouldn't be able to break the chassis. It's the outers that have the leverage to do harm, while the inners don't have any leverage. At least that's how I've seen them work.