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Old 04-22-2008, 03:31 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by artie's liver View Post
titanium does not mean unbreakable

I am curious how you know that a metal is not titanium by looking at it?

I think getting hit by 3 1/8 scale vehicles is going to be pretty tough on any little 1/18th scale
When you grind titanium it shoots off bright white sparks.
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Old 04-22-2008, 03:33 PM   #47
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and the sparks that came off it were kind of yellowish. a shade lighter than steel's amber color.

If it had bent, it would be no big deal.

What's funny is none of the plastic broke.
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Old 04-22-2008, 03:48 PM   #48
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When you grind titanium it shoots off bright white sparks.
Does this apply to pure titan only? or titan alloys as well such as Titanium 6AL-4V?
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Old 04-22-2008, 03:49 PM   #49
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Alloys too.
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Old 04-22-2008, 05:18 PM   #50
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alloys can be stronger than the pure metal, unless it's an alloy made to be cheap, (how much titanium needs to be in a "titanium" turnbuckle for them to call it "titanium", my bet is not much)


the best/strongest stuff is always an alloy of some sort rather than a pure metal
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Old 04-22-2008, 06:02 PM   #51
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Yes, alloys are typically stronger than the pure metal. For titanium, the grade you want for structural applications is 6AL-4V (as posted above) also known as Grade 5. There are also other alloys such as CP (Commercially Pure) which is also known as Grade 2. CP grade titanium is far weaker than Grade 5 and is typically used in applications that require high corrosion resistance. Grade 2 is also typically a good bit cheaper than Grade 5.

What does all that mean to the r/c crowd? Not a whole lot.... But it is interesting to note that only Lunsford advertises that their products are made with 6AL-4V titanium, and others just call theirs "titanium". Also interesting to note that in all my years of R/C, i've never seen a bent or broken Lunsford Punisher turnbuckle, but i've seen a ton of bent/broken "titanium" turnbuckles from other manufacturers.

This is in no way meant to imply that other companies are using inferior grades of titanium, so please no company reps or fanboys don't flame me.

Artie's Liver-Do I know you? I saw you posted on the Norcal thread that you've been to that track.

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Old 04-22-2008, 06:33 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Sabin View Post

What's funny is none of the plastic broke.

My friends and I noticed this last winter that most of the breakage was due to the metal parts and the plastics held up. of course some people would break the plastics too, but for the most part the plastics seem to be getting stronger than the metals. IDK. Just an observation.
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Old 04-22-2008, 06:53 PM   #53
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I'm sure we've chatted out there once or twice, I'm Ward, and have been out there a couple of times,

run novice a couple times, and tried to keep my blue B4 out of the way of the fast guys in expert a couple weeks ago. I seem to run in the 10 lap range in those heats, so I need to pick up the pace a bit!!
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Old 04-22-2008, 08:12 PM   #54
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Regarding customer service I bought a B44 and had a machining issue with one of the cv cups not being drilled far enough in for the cv pin to line up. I called associated and they sent me one immediately. I had no issues with them and was impressed.
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Old 04-23-2008, 02:40 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrbowtie26 View Post
Regarding customer service I bought a B44 and had a machining issue with one of the cv cups not being drilled far enough in for the cv pin to line up. I called associated and they sent me one immediately. I had no issues with them and was impressed.
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Yeah, I'm impressed with my Rc18b.
Here's a video of it--
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You can see, it's ridiculously fast, I opened it up one day into a jump, it flew high enough and landed in a way that I knew it would have been smashed to bits. Nothing broke. In fact in 4 mos of owning it, I haven't broken anything per se -- just lost part of the steering bellcrank on a high speed impact.

I've had numerous emails back and fourth with associated on gearing for the mamba, etc -- they've always replied within 18 hours.

I'm sure maybe it's different on the bigger kits -- but I've been real happy with the way they've handled themselves with this little speed demon.
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Old 04-27-2008, 06:26 PM   #56
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I was able to race the XXX-Tcr Saturday night and wanted to post the message updating the status of the issue on this particular truck. Thanks to Sport10 as well as a number of setup suggestions from this forum and through PM's, we got the truck dialed in right and the results were very encouraging.

I put titanium ballstuds on the hubs (will this week add them to the shock towers) and made a number of changes to the truck's recommended setup to account for the weight specifics of running Lipo and Brushless.

Since I did so poorly against the fast guys in the 2wd Electric class (19t and mod) I entered Novice and 2wd Electric this weekend. Throughout the course of the night, 6 races and plenty of practice, the truck suffered a few pretty dramatic crashes, all result of my driving and not truck issues -- and it held up very well.

I finished first in the three novice races and continued my streak of last place in the 2wd Electric class but was fewer laps behind this round. So, I say all this to retract at least a portion of my post -- by ignoring the factory recommended setup, investing in some titanium the truck can be very durable and perform extremely well. Had another driver used my truck, I have little doubt it would've been a contender in the 2wd 19t/mod class -- and I don't think I should race the novice class again with it as even with a number of boneheaded driver mistakes on my part -- the truck made winning easy.
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Old 04-28-2008, 07:44 AM   #57
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Glad I was able to help you get that truck sorted. Man that thing was dialed! Looks like we have a pretty strong number of upcoming electric truck racers the novice class too. Should make for so interesting racing once there skills get up to par. We will also be having a 4wd electric class starting next race meet. It will be fun giving my X-5 a workout.
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:10 AM   #58
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I'm sorry, but if I am going to purchase a $250 kit that needs $100 in upgrades to make it durable then it is not worth the money for a 2wd truck. Xray and mugen set the bar for 1/8th scale quality & it is far above that of associated. I see guys pick up used 12gallon xray rollers & put another dozen gallons on them before they show enough slop to warrant a rebuild. Now xray has just released their version of the eight which means losi better get back on the ball w/ a new design or improve their product quality in a hurry.
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:21 AM   #59
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His truck is pretty much stock except for upgrading to better ballstuds on certain key areas on the truck. I do not know where you are getting the extra 100.00. It is yet to be determined if the 808 is going to be as durable as expected. This is a new design for them and there is bound to be teething problems with it just as there was with the Losi 8ight.
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Old 04-28-2008, 09:11 AM   #60
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The losi needs lunsford turnbuckles, titanium ball studs, & heavey duty shock mounts. All of this stuff adds up to around $100 in parts. Not to mention their product support has gone down the crapper. 3 years ago you could get a new setup to try once a week. Now you get one setup & it isn't any good. I have actually decided to run an e-firestorm this summer because it looks like the best all around truck to me, I come up w/ my own setups now anyways. It's a pretty bad day for Losi when the parts quality of rtr hpis has surpassed losi. 8 years ago a losi roller meant one of the most complete & high quality kits available. Well, things have changed & I am moving on from Losi.
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