R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-11-2008, 08:16 PM   #1
Tech Apprentice
 
nyourgrill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 81
Default Bleeding AE Shocks, Any Tips?

I spent hours today building my B4 shocks and I still don't have one shock that feels good. I try to bleed the shocks like the instructions say but I end up with too much oil or too much air. Any help would be appreciated.
nyourgrill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2008, 08:49 PM   #2
Tech Master
 
SMcpot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,237
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

The Yokomo YS8Y bleeder-screw caps make building the AE shocks really easy.
SMcpot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2008, 09:36 PM   #3
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 838
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

If you are using the stock shock caps, put oil in and move the shock shaft through it's stroke to get the air bubbles out.

Let it sit for a few minutes to allow the air bubbles to get out of the shock.

Then, with the shock shaft fully extended, fill the shock till the oil is flush with the top.

Screw on the cap tight.

Loosen the cap slightly and start to push the shaft all the way into the shock until it is fully compressed. Make sure the mounting eyelet is intalled when you do this.

When fully compressed, re-tighten the cap. There will be excess oil that comes out, so you may want to wrap the shock body in a rag first. I've been using that method for about ten years now and all the shocks should come out equal.
Chris Brown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2008, 09:43 PM   #4
Tech Addict
 
jobo_ph's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Los Banos, Laguna, PH
Posts: 698
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to jobo_ph Send a message via Skype™ to jobo_ph
Default

I agree the Yokomo shock caps really help in bleeding AE shocks.

However, I stopped using them because the eyelet "oblongs out" (read: slop) too soon to my liking. I think the material used by Yokomo is soft compared to AE ones.

So, I bought the AE aluminum shock caps and slightly modified my bleeding procedure.

I'd fill the shock body with oil until it "domes" on the rim then screw in the aluminum cap fully. Afterwards, I'd unscrew the cap 2 full turns (maybe slightly more for the AE plastic caps), then slowly push the shaft in until it bottoms out. Some oil and air will seep out through the cap threads. I, then, tighten the cap, pump the shaft several times, then check for rebound.

This method works for me (after doing it several times) and I can more or less get the rebound that is required and can get my shocks about even on the rebound.

Maybe what I do can help but YMMV...
__________________
Hibernating...
Team Associated B4 * T4 * B44
Novak BL * Futaba TX/RX/Servos * Hyperion/Megapower Chargers
Orion/Yuntong/Maxamps Lipo * AMB #6655738
jobo_ph is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2008, 10:50 PM   #5
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: socal
Posts: 858
Trader Rating: 52 (98%+)
Default

FYI, The yokomo cap does not work with the newer AE shocks. I have a newer FTB4 kit, the yok cap does not work. They work with my older FTB4.
__________________
Lots of RC Stuff
straightaway is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2008, 11:48 PM   #6
Tech Apprentice
 
nyourgrill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 81
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Brown View Post
If you are using the stock shock caps, put oil in and move the shock shaft through it's stroke to get the air bubbles out.

Let it sit for a few minutes to allow the air bubbles to get out of the shock.

Then, with the shock shaft fully extended, fill the shock till the oil is flush with the top.

Screw on the cap tight.

Loosen the cap slightly and start to push the shaft all the way into the shock until it is fully compressed. Make sure the mounting eyelet is intalled when you do this.

When fully compressed, re-tighten the cap. There will be excess oil that comes out, so you may want to wrap the shock body in a rag first. I've been using that method for about ten years now and all the shocks should come out equal.
I have tried this but not enough oil seems to bleed out. As I start to screw down the cap the shaft wants to pop back out. Do you hold the shaft against something to keep it from coming back out?

Also when these shocks are build correctly, will they have any air inside? I got one shock pretty close, but if I let the shock sit for 10min or so then try to compress it you hear what sounds like an air bubble breaking up and mixing with the oil.
nyourgrill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2008, 05:10 AM   #7
Tech Lord
 
20 SMOKE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: HVR_ WEEKI WACHEE FL
Posts: 10,299
Trader Rating: 101 (100%+)
Default

on my tc3 i put bladder's in the caps and made it easier to build
__________________
Jamie W
*Team Tekin*Tekno-rc*DE Racing*AKA*DDHRC*
20 SMOKE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2008, 08:27 AM   #8
Tech Elite
 
ta_man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 4,365
Trader Rating: 151 (100%+)
Default

It took me years to figure this out, but here is what I do and get good results.

Fill the shock with the shaft all the way to the bottom and let it sit for a while until all the air comes out of the shock oil. Hold the shock in one hand an add oil until it domes, Holing that cap with a spare finger of the hand holding the shock, add oil to the shock cap at least up to the threads. Push the shock shaft up a little bit and then with a quick motion, put the cap on (minimizing spillage) and turn it a few threads.

That is all standard. Now here is my secret. Holding the shock over something to catch the drips, I loosen the cap enough that it can be canted very slightly and holding the shock horizontally, push in the shock shaft. The cap should be canted such that the side that has the "wider" opening is on top (remember, shock is horizontal). This lets much of the air come out that canted section of the threads along with a whole bunch of shock oil. Then I screw the shock cap on all the way. I end up with very little rebound this way, but the shock are easier to build consistent from one to the next.
ta_man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2008, 10:10 AM   #9
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

Only takes minutes to do if you follow the direction`s...
__________________
Any driver can copy a great set up, a Champion however will steal it .
If Jesus returned as a Rc car he be a Rc10 B5M
George W. Cherry
Wild Cherry is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Bleeding through MikeXray Painting, Designs, Graphics and Photography 3 01-10-2008 03:24 PM
tips for building shocks and gluing tires + others Apexs Electric Off-Road 1 02-10-2007 07:59 PM
paint bleeding????!!!! ntc3freak Painting, Designs, Graphics and Photography 9 07-12-2005 05:09 PM
wtb: 1/8 rear buggy shocks or t-maxx size shocks arawak420 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 0 05-23-2005 07:05 PM
shock bleeding MCRUZ Nitro On-Road 3 05-29-2003 09:22 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:06 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net