Still running a B3?
 

I am running a B3, and I am trying to get the rear end put together but it does not seem to want to "fit"

The MIP CVDs seem to be short.. Does that sound right? If the rear arms go even 10^ past level the bone will come out of the outdrive.

I just purchased a new set of CVDs and I am into the same problem.

SO if you do, or did run this car, how did you shim up the cvds? I guess I am limiting down travel of the shocks a fair bit.. or am I missing something?

Thanks

Make the sure the entire rear end is assembled b4 you check to see if the cvds will stay in place. The arms & shocks will limit the travel enough to keep the cvds in place.

Yeah did that.. and I have axle shims in there just to keep the bone in.

7 shims behind the hub, and 3 outside it for the pin.

But it seems kind of weird that this much shimming would be required. YES I know that of the 7 there should be a thicker one.. but still.. if I set the droop on the shocks to allow more than 10 deg travel past level, the dog will pop out.. I like some droop on an offroad car to absorb the shock of landings..

I have checked and rechecked, I am not missing parts.. baffled.

James

I ran a B3 for years back in the day and always flirted with this issue. Your on the right track running as many shims on the inside as possible. Another thing you might try and its a total guess but if you have the parts laying around or know someone who does you might try running BK2 axles and shimming them accordingly. This is going to possibly create the opposite problem (them being too far in on the diff outdrives) but you can grind away the inside of the bone so it clears the diff adjustment components inside the outdrives. If you want more info this mod would be very similar to what the X Factory guys do with the X6 to get downtravel when they shim the tranny up alot. Hope that helps.

Yes, the MIP CVDs are short. If you look at a new package of MIP CVDs for the B3, it says "B2/B3" CVDs. The thing is, the B2 had a shorter rear A-arm than the B3 so when you use the B3 length rear arm, the CVD doesn't go as far into the outdrive as you would like. I once had one pop out on a crash.

The best solution I have found is to use Losi XXX stub axles. They are longer, with more space between the shim flange and the drive pin hole. Then you put extra shims in between the shim flange and the inner hub bearing to move the CVD bone further into the outdrive. The best shims to use for this are these:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...VSEARCH=LX3401

Actually, if you are going to be buying the stub axles for the XXX brand new (as opposed to scrounging them), it is better to get the ones for the "Gen II" as they are longer still, and give you even more shimming flexibility, along with the option to use the B4 wheel spacers behind the drive pin:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEAD3&P=7

Alternatively, you can get the stub axles for the B4, which are about the same as the standard XXX ones and are less expensive.

Well doesnt that just suck..

MIP advertises these and they are not fitting?

Seems to me it would be better with a longer bone, not a more spaced out axle..

I guess I will contact MIP and see what their take on this is.

Thanks for the tips.. So much for my cheap used car.

James

I have a B3 that I would like to sell. Rolling chassis xtra body, wing, and tires!

haha..

I cant get mine together right, so your solution is to put more money into it and get another one? lol

Though I would love to hear how you have the cvds shimmed up??

James

i raced one for a short time had the problem the cure i used is by limiting the shocks for down travel. raced on a rough track compared to most had a little bottom contact but i have a lot more in my losi cars now. ?? was that the one i ran a spring in the axle stub ??

racin'-4 fun

MIP is really a good company and if there is a genuine issue Im sure they will take care of you. I ran into the same issues back when I had a B3, and I believe that the only real solution is running another CVD axle. There are several different length bones available now though, the BK2, BJ4 rear, etc, which may be the proper length.

Yep.. playing with it tonight.. and NO WAY will this work shimed according to the manual.

Now I am running B4 threaded shocks and those are already set for a length that only lets the bones drop a bit below level, so I guess I run it that way.

I did call MIP this evening, and they were helpful, funny enough the fellow answering said he never has had a call like this one before.. but seems everyone ran into it.

SO.. I might be able to find a bit longer bone, but I need to know lengths - guess I could write MIP and see if they are willing .. B4 bones are way too long..

Thanks for the input guys.

James

I had a B3 for a while and that happened to me constantly.

Everyone said to shim it in as much as I could and limit the droop...but then it handled like crap. I really got sick of it popping an axle out every time I cased a jump. I was casing all the time, so it was a super-big PITA.

Wish I could shed some light on it for you. :sneaky: I ended up selling it. :lol: Shame really, because it was a pretty nice car besides that one issue.

The B3 did have a longer arm than the B2 BUT the hub carrier on the B3 was different and moved the pivot point fruther out. Make sure you have B3 hubs and not B2's. I never once in the 6 years I ran a B3 had a cvd pop out. I cant remember if or how many shock limiters we used to run, check ae's site for setups. As for the axle shimming, ALWAYS on the B3 and T3 we ran 2 of the thin shims on the inside and 1 large (equal to 3 thin) shim on the outside. Always always ran it like this and never an issue. The B4 shocks are quite a bit shorter than the B3 ones 1.18" to 1.32", while it might help the popping out issue it shouldnt be necessary. There should be no way you can get 7 shims on one side an 3 on another. I'd say DOUBLE CHECk all parts as if they are the correct ones.

Just get the B4 axles (not bones, axles) and the shims I mentioned above.

Well thanks to RCboys on ebay.. I had replaced almost all the rear parts that could have been causeing this issue.

I have new B3 hubs (3hole) New Shiny CVDs complete kit.

Now I am running the shorter (aeRayls) B4 threaded shocks, which I like the length of anyway.. but with the shocks fully extended.. even the B4s and factory shimming of 1 thin behind and 2 thin + thick in front.. I can pop the cvd out with my fingers.

If I just put 1 thin on the outside of the axle, I could fit 10 thin shims on the inside.. but that backs the joint out too close to the arm.. and it will rub and wont spin free.

Now ta_man.. if I go with the B4 axles then I have to run the B4 wheels correct? and the axles are a not 3/16s are they? So I need new bearings?

James