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Old 04-09-2008, 11:30 AM   #16
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The B4 axles are the same thing just longer on the outside part. You can use the same wheel and bearings. The B4 are wider and use a big wheel spacer, you could use the extra length to shim the axle back into the outrdrive. Like I said before this should not be necessary. Just a thought though, do you have the camber set correctly? If you have too much positive camber in the rear camber link it will pop out constantly. -1.5 to -3 degrees is where you should run it. This is actually really frustrating me, I ran that car for soooo long I know all the parts inside and out and never came across that problem. I guess without seeing everything there isnt much else I can do.
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:43 PM   #17
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Well what I have decided to do for now is run it at -2 camber.

I have set the shims to stock outside 2 thin and 1 thick... and inside to 5 thin. My droop is like 3mm .. when butt end off the ground the bones are about 5deg below level.

Now this again .. JUST leaves the driven pins inside the outdrives.. by like 2mm.. but I am hoping this will be enough.

Evader wheels are good to use for this car right?

James
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Old 04-09-2008, 02:48 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by aeRayls View Post
The B4 axles are the same thing just longer on the outside part. You can use the same wheel and bearings. The B4 are wider and use a big wheel spacer, you could use the extra length to shim the axle back into the outrdrive. Like I said before this should not be necessary. Just a thought though, do you have the camber set correctly? If you have too much positive camber in the rear camber link it will pop out constantly. -1.5 to -3 degrees is where you should run it. This is actually really frustrating me, I ran that car for soooo long I know all the parts inside and out and never came across that problem. I guess without seeing everything there isnt much else I can do.
It doesn't really matter whether it should be necessary are not.

Unless you are a perfect driver who never crashes, using the B3 bones and B3 axles (really B2 bones and B2 axles since they weren't updated for the B3) with full extension of the shocks, you run the risk of the CVD popping out of the outdrive. Moving the CVD bone further into the outdrive by using a longer axle and adding shims inside the carrier (the bone side) rather than the outside (wheel side) solves this problem.
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Old 04-09-2008, 09:31 PM   #19
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I currently run a b3, a couple times a month. I shimmed my axles as much as possible to get the cvd in as far as possible. I also bought new rear a-arm mounting blocks, because the guy I bought it from has a 3 degree block on one side and a 2 degree on the other. I just put it back to stock.
I also put the rear shocks on the outer most hole on the rear a-arm inorder to keep the a-arm from moving down so much, and it worked. Its fast and I run on a large 1/8th nitro track. I can clear the doubles easily and if I get enough traction I can barely get over the tripple and the bones do not fall out any more.

It has a 19t brushed motor and a 6000mah lipo battery.

I hope this is some what helpful.

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Old 04-10-2008, 12:21 AM   #20
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What ev
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Old 04-10-2008, 02:30 AM   #21
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Now ta_man.. if I go with the B4 axles then I have to run the B4 wheels correct? and the axles are a not 3/16s are they? So I need new bearings?
The car will be too narrow with B4 wheels and yeah they are still 3/16". Both the B4 and B3 have the same length arms mounted from the same distance out from the centre of the chassis, they just used hub carriers which offset the bearings further out on the B4.
So something you could try if you wanna run B4 wheels would be use B4 axles & bones along with b4 hub carriers with the pivot hole reamed out to 1/8".
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Old 04-10-2008, 06:39 AM   #22
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I did a Long arm conversion on my B3...I used stock arms, longer camber links, B4 CVDs, and variable arm length hub carriers from Losi. It works great! Now I can use Losi or associated rear wheels..like the b4 or xxx, and front b4 wheels.
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Old 04-10-2008, 07:42 AM   #23
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OK, so I have a NEW never assembled set of shiny cvds from MIP for this car.

I did talk to MIP about this, and I will give them a link to this thread. They said they are more than willing to help.

1. Does anyone know of a bone that is a bit longer than the B2 (B3) that I could just exchange for?

2. I guess maybe I ask to exchange the B3 axles for the B4 axles. But for those that have done this, dont you find the cv joint now rubs the arm?

Otherwise I have it together now, I need to get it to a track and see what I get. I have two to run on.. an indoor carpet offroad and Outdoor dirt.(not sure what the surface will be this year.. it changes)
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Old 04-10-2008, 02:58 PM   #24
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1. Does anyone know of a bone that is a bit longer than the B2 (B3) that I could just exchange for?
If you are industrious and handly, you can make any length CVD bones you want. Look at this pic showing custom length bones on a B3 with Losi 2126 hubs:

http://s92437987.onlinehome.us/ebayp...tended-cvd.jpg

Before anyone says this can't possibly work, look at the end of the CVD bone and see how much wear it has incurred without any problems with the solder joint holding the two ends together.

[Server hosting the pic was down when I made this post but will be back sooner or later]

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2. I guess maybe I ask to exchange the B3 axles for the B4 axles. But for those that have done this, dont you find the cv joint now rubs the arm?
The CV joint doesn't rub the arm. You are only shimming it in about .040 to .060.
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Old 04-10-2008, 05:21 PM   #25
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I think you need to make some new CVDs them look a bit wore out.
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Old 04-10-2008, 05:40 PM   #26
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I think you need to make some new CVDs them look a bit wore out.
Nah! I'll just drill new holes in the belled end of the bone and replace the crosspin at the outdrive end. They'll last another 2 years.
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