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Old 04-08-2008, 10:30 PM   #16
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Just got these gold bricks a couple days ago. You don't need to add weight when you use lipos....just set the car up for the lighter weight....lighter springs, shock oil.
I installed mine with the plugs to the outside and just soldered the bullets on at 90 degrees after notching them with a dremel.

I thought about installing then to the inside as you did but was worried about a short, carbon fiber does conduct electricity
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:13 PM   #17
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I installed mine with the plugs to the outside and just soldered the bullets on at 90 degrees after notching them with a dremel.

I thought about installing then to the inside as you did but was worried about a short, carbon fiber does conduct electricity
Yeah I'm a little concerned about that too. I'm going to round the edges of the top deck where the plugs are & put a couple extra layers of heat shrink at the bullets.
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Old 04-09-2008, 04:59 AM   #18
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hey guys heres another question what motors do u run cuz i have the LRp 7.5 and it overheats like crazy to the point where i think my pack is dead.... then i peak my pack and it goes to like 3000 and its a 4600... i had the motor at like 180... i have tried smaller pinion sizes and everything what motor should i run
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:16 AM   #19
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hey guys heres another question what motors do u run cuz i have the LRp 7.5 and it overheats like crazy to the point where i think my pack is dead.... then i peak my pack and it goes to like 3000 and its a 4600... i had the motor at like 180... i have tried smaller pinion sizes and everything what motor should i run
what pinion are you running?
I am running the same motor w/ 19t (indoors) and dont have any heat issues
even after 10 minutes of runtime w/ a maxamps 4000mah lipo.
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Old 04-10-2008, 11:40 PM   #20
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im running a 5.5 geared at a 18 tooth (indoors) and no problems what so ever.
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Old 04-11-2008, 10:10 AM   #21
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hey guys heres another question what motors do u run cuz i have the LRp 7.5 and it overheats like crazy to the point where i think my pack is dead.... then i peak my pack and it goes to like 3000 and its a 4600... i had the motor at like 180... i have tried smaller pinion sizes and everything what motor should i run
Do you have a sintered rotor or are you using the standard one that came with it? If you have repeatedly heated the motor past 180, its definitely time for a new rotor. Had a friend with the original reedy 6.5 motor and he couldn't keep it cold without gearing it to the floor in his 4 wheel. Picked up a new lrp sintered rotor and ballbearings and it hasn't gotten over 130 since.
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Old 04-11-2008, 11:44 AM   #22
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hey guys heres another question what motors do u run cuz i have the LRp 7.5 and it overheats like crazy to the point where i think my pack is dead.... then i peak my pack and it goes to like 3000 and its a 4600... i had the motor at like 180... i have tried smaller pinion sizes and everything what motor should i run
I had a similar issue with my b44. After checking a couple of things out it was the lipo cut off on my sphere comp 2007. From the factory it comes enabled. I found that with NIMH is kicks in once in a while under load. I thought it was a heat issue also. After i turned it off i never had the problem again. FYI i was running an LRP 6.5 with a 19t pinion.
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Old 04-11-2008, 08:22 PM   #23
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6.5/GTB with a 16/84 and temps are around 150 esc and 120 motor.
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Old 04-11-2008, 08:49 PM   #24
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For you guys running MaxAmps- How did you mount the LiPo at the carbon fiber / batt plate?

Pics Please.

Last edited by RCengineer; 04-13-2008 at 11:23 AM.
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Old 04-13-2008, 09:45 AM   #25
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For you gus running MaxAmps- How did you mount the LiPo at the carbon fiber / batt plate?

Pics Please.

I am intersted on this as well. Thank you in advance.
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:42 AM   #26
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For you guys running MaxAmps- How did you mount the LiPo at the carbon fiber / batt plate?

Pics Please.
Flip the battery strap over, put some double sided tape on the strap to the lipo pack...good to go. Sorry no pics.
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:53 AM   #27
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Flip the battery strap over, put some double sided tape on the strap to the lipo pack...good to go. Sorry no pics.
I did this yesterday but went a little further. Since the posts are too short now, I removed the bottom tray for now and placed some double sided tape on the bottom as well. Flipped the strap and D/S tape as well on that. Got some longer 4/40 screws and loctite. WEll, we'll see if this holds up. Hate to have the batteries move during a race. I might make my own plate using some C/F pieces I have.
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Old 04-14-2008, 10:43 AM   #28
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Do you have a sintered rotor or are you using the standard one that came with it? If you have repeatedly heated the motor past 180, its definitely time for a new rotor. Had a friend with the original reedy 6.5 motor and he couldn't keep it cold without gearing it to the floor in his 4 wheel. Picked up a new lrp sintered rotor and ballbearings and it hasn't gotten over 130 since.
yea I think I'll try that I like the idea.... I didn't know they wore down
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Old 04-14-2008, 12:43 PM   #29
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yea I think I'll try that I like the idea.... I didn't know they wore down
They dont wear out the heat destroys them. What pinion u running ??
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Old 04-14-2008, 02:26 PM   #30
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I did this yesterday but went a little further. Since the posts are too short now, I removed the bottom tray for now and placed some double sided tape on the bottom as well. Flipped the strap and D/S tape as well on that. Got some longer 4/40 screws and loctite. WEll, we'll see if this holds up. Hate to have the batteries move during a race. I might make my own plate using some C/F pieces I have.
The bottom plate area is what I was concerned with. Specifically the holes in the carbon fiber chassis where the round batteries would be. If you were to land on someone, i wonder if the pack could get punctured. Would a drop in delrin or other plastic make sense for LiPo protection?
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