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Old 04-10-2008, 10:52 PM   #16
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I have had this problem in the past with my xxx series vehicles, and I believe I have found the solution:

Take a 4-40 tap and tap the holes in the gearbox, but tap them all the way up. Very carefully tap the holes all the way through the other side of the gearbox. This allows a very long screw to be used, and should solve your durability issue, I haven't broken one since then.
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Old 04-10-2008, 11:03 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by TSewell View Post
I have had this problem in the past with my xxx series vehicles, and I believe I have found the solution:

Take a 4-40 tap and tap the holes in the gearbox, but tap them all the way up. Very carefully tap the holes all the way through the other side of the gearbox. This allows a very long screw to be used, and should solve your durability issue, I haven't broken one since then.
When you give advice like this I would take the mechanical engineer out of your signature. Drill through first then tap. You don't use a tap as a drill. And yes I'm an engineer as well.
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Old 04-11-2008, 12:13 AM   #18
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Even if the screws in the rear do come lose the gear box will still be secured @ the front & the middle of the shock tower. I still don't believe that this will cause any issues w/ the cars performance. To be honest I believe this topic is about like crying over spilt milk. If this was a crucial point that would take alot of stress then it would have been made more durable & not one of the weakest points in the car.
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Old 04-11-2008, 01:26 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by party_wagon View Post
Even if the screws in the rear do come lose the gear box will still be secured @ the front & the middle of the shock tower. I still don't believe that this will cause any issues w/ the cars performance. To be honest I believe this topic is about like crying over spilt milk. If this was a crucial point that would take alot of stress then it would have been made more durable & not one of the weakest points in the car.

Safe to assume you are not familiar with this car?
If you were, you'd realise that the front mount on its own will not hold the gearbox in place, it in fact allows the rear of the gearbox to pivot up then the driveshafts fall out and it's just not good.

Thanks to all who have suggested some good tips to try.
I have 2 new gearbox casings on the way, so I'll certainly try tapping the holes further up inside before I fit them.

Thanks
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Old 04-12-2008, 09:30 PM   #20
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If this was a crucial point that would take alot of stress then it would have been made more durable & not one of the weakest points in the car.
Are you kidding? everything is a crucial point.
The normal week is race, order parts, replace the broke stuff, race, order parts, replace broke stuff.......
In the 2 months that I have had this I think have spent almost as much in replacement parts than I did for whole dang thing to start with. And I only run oval!

Gonna put the longer screws in tomorrow. thanks
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Old 04-12-2008, 09:54 PM   #21
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When you give advice like this I would take the mechanical engineer out of your signature. Drill through first then tap. You don't use a tap as a drill. And yes I'm an engineer as well.
lol, that cracked me up! and i'm an Electronics engineer!

On the topic of the XXX case, those have given me countless headaches. Though i have another idea: you could try replacing the rear motor cover/bumper. it might soak a little bit of the shock before it hits the motor/motor plate. try moving the motor closer in too (smaller spur AND pinion)

cheers!

Last edited by Bigshades; 04-12-2008 at 09:57 PM. Reason: forgot somethin...
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Old 04-12-2008, 10:05 PM   #22
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On the topic of the XXX case, those have given me countless headaches. Though i have another idea: you could try replacing the rear motor cover/bumper. it might soak a little bit of the shock before it hits the motor/motor plate. try moving the motor closer in too (smaller spur AND pinion)

cheers!
yeah, that's not a bad idea.
I also wonder if the plastic the casing is made from is rather brittle?
Maybe boiling it would help.
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Old 04-13-2008, 08:02 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by TSewell View Post
I have had this problem in the past with my xxx series vehicles, and I believe I have found the solution:

Take a 4-40 tap and tap the holes in the gearbox, but tap them all the way up. Very carefully tap the holes all the way through the other side of the gearbox. This allows a very long screw to be used, and should solve your durability issue, I haven't broken one since then.
This is the same thing i have done on BK2 and MF2 and no more cases
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Old 04-14-2008, 06:49 PM   #24
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Hmmmm......back when electric was king and the XXX was THE buggy to beat, I ran one every weekend for a few years and never heard of this problem.

Maybe it's the overlarge (for 10th electric) rutted out tracks made to cater to 8th buggy and truggy? This seems to be a common issue for all 10th scale cars and trucks these days, excessive breakage from trying to run them on tracks too rough for them with jumps that are waaaay to big for them.

Or maybe since Losi is now 100% under horizon control the quality of their product(s) is slipping? Just the other day I saw a brand new aftershock with clutch shoes made from the same plastic as the arms and a cast pot metal one piece 2 speed clutch bell. It wouldn't move the truck because the shoes kept melting. I called horizon service about this and they gave me what amounted to a big assed shoulder shrug along with the usual "we are not aware of any issue" garbage. When I asked them why the manual lists an aluminum clutch for the car, but the car comes with plastic shoes, and no mention of them in the manual, the guy said aluminum shoes were now an optional item and the manual would soon be revised to reflect this. He also couldn't give me a part number for the plastic shoes. I got the same answer for why the clutch bell is now a one piece cast pot metal affair rather than the steel unit with a threaded snout for the 2 speed gears as shown in the manual. There is also no P/N for the cast clutch bell, and the threaded steel bell and gears to go on it are now optional items.
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Old 04-14-2008, 09:28 PM   #25
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Maybe it's the overlarge (for 10th electric) rutted out tracks made to cater to 8th buggy and truggy? This seems to be a common issue for all 10th scale cars and trucks these days, excessive breakage from trying to run them on tracks too rough for them with jumps that are waaaay to big for them.
I absolutely agree. Not denying other factors, but the SuperCross style tracks that are so popular these days, and 1/8 scales have made the tracks far more challenging.

Pretty cool when ya get that double double or whatever just right, but when ya don't.......well let's just say now I understand buying those fancy wrench sets!
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Old 04-15-2008, 09:54 AM   #26
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Just tap the existing holes. Use an actual tap not just the gold tapping screw losi gives you. If you tap more then half the hole you should be good and then the last couple threads will be cut by the plastic and they will act as your locking feature as when you use a screw to "tap" your hole you get kind of a locking type feature as the screw does not really cut the plastic more then it just deforms it. If you pretap the holes in that really hard plastic you should be good to go. No reason to drill the hole deeper or anything like that.

For what it is worth I highly recommend using a real tap all the holes in the chassis as well as the two holes in the top of the tranny case for the rear bumper. I just use the screw to thread all the rest of the holes in the car.
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Old 04-16-2008, 06:16 AM   #27
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Just tap the existing holes. Use an actual tap not just the gold tapping screw losi gives you. If you tap more then half the hole you should be good and then the last couple threads will be cut by the plastic and they will act as your locking feature as when you use a screw to "tap" your hole you get kind of a locking type feature as the screw does not really cut the plastic more then it just deforms it. If you pretap the holes in that really hard plastic you should be good to go. No reason to drill the hole deeper or anything like that.

For what it is worth I highly recommend using a real tap all the holes in the chassis as well as the two holes in the top of the tranny case for the rear bumper. I just use the screw to thread all the rest of the holes in the car.
To add ,you could just take what ever thread size bolt you want taped find a bolt with that thread and cut some flutes (vertical notches)in it with a dremel and save you some money on tap's and then you can do this with any hole on the car .I think tap's are great when you have to go in to steel .but for plastic i would go my route cheeper and still very effective .hope this helps. bert
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Old 04-16-2008, 09:11 AM   #28
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That would work but a tap has sharper threads on it. I agree a little over kill for plastic but for some critical areas it is worth the effort.
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Old 04-16-2008, 03:05 PM   #29
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After trying to use that gold screw sullpied in the kit i went and bougt a tap from home depot 3 bucks and its so much faster than the other screw and not to mention it cuts the carbon fiber parts better.
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Old 04-17-2008, 06:42 AM   #30
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i will shut up now .......lol.
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