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Old 03-12-2008, 02:46 PM   #1
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Default RC10B4 ARMS

I'm getting ready to order a RC10B4 and heard that the front A ARMS break alot on the B4 and the rear A ARMS also break alot but not as much as the front.I would be really grateful for any input from anyone who has the kit or knows someone who does.I will be getting the Factory Team kit and was wondering something,I downloaded the instruction manual for the kit and it has to different part numbers for the A ARMS and Shocktowers and it might have different part numbers for other stuff I do not have the manual here right now.When I put the 2 different part numbers for each part in at towerhobbies they one was a regular plastic part and the other was a carbon plastic part witch is the strong the carbon or the regular plastic.I'm wanting to know witch part is stronger because I do not have a local hobby shop and want to keep any parts that are weak links in the kit on hand at all times.Thanks for any help.P.S here are the 2 part numbers for the front A ARMS 9578,9579.
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Old 03-12-2008, 02:52 PM   #2
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Plastic part will have more give to it in a crash. The carbon is more rigid so it gives a more direct feel. AE has a nice explanation of this on there site.

I would say from a pure durability perspective, go with the plastic front arms. Keep in mind though, they can break too, so stock up.

If I recall correctly, Bill Easton won a championship with a pretty much stock Team B4 (plastic parts), so if you are worried about raceability, no need.

Don't forget to pick up spares of the steering knuckles and maybe a set of the front carriers. I found that I usually broke steering knuckles if on a hit where the arm would break, but didn't.
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Old 03-12-2008, 02:57 PM   #3
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If you want durabilty get a rb5, I have never broken a front arm in 8 months in three states of racing.

B4 is a good car though so dont discount it and the parts are cheap and a arm is easy to change.
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Old 03-12-2008, 03:00 PM   #4
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another option to protect the front end assuming you are not racing, you could look into the RPM large front bumper or even the mini bumper. It works well for protection, but for pur racing, you may not want to run it as it can dig in off of a jump more so on the buggy than a truck (I ran this on my daughters truck).
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Old 03-12-2008, 03:16 PM   #5
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I know parts will break from time to time.I'm not sure about the whole Bill Easton ran a stock B4 thing,why my old hobby shop called hobby hobby in canada had a guy that ran Kyosho 1/8 nitro many years ago about 6 to 8 his name was Mark or Todd Henry he was one of the owners of the shop and did pretty well making it to the Amain in most of the races he ran in he did not make alot of races being a shop owner.But he told me being a sponsored driver for Kyosho he had to get everything approved by Kyosho and it did not matter if he found that a certain stock part broke alot in practice and he told them he was not happy with it and they say to bad then he had to run the stock part or risk his sponsorship being pulled.He told me the factory drivers back then had to run mostly stock kits,it was an image thing and the kit maker did not want people to see that there own factory drivers did not have faith in there parts that came from the factory.I can see that myself there alot of people out there that just get done spending alot on a kit and do not want to have to worry about keeping a ton of part stocked in there spare parts box.And then there's guys that would not care about how fast a kit is if they thought it had any weak links in it the first thing they would see is dollar signs because they are cheap penny pinchers.I'm not cheap I just need to get the most durable parts so I don't go broke from shipping cost's.
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:08 PM   #6
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I have been running the B4 since it came out. Well, not a lot, because I run truck most of the time. But plenty. Durability is not an issue. Get a few parts, and you will be good to go.
On the Easton thing. The Factory team car is full carbon. The parts that are available. Most of the time, driver switch to a plastic chassis to "soften" up the car. At the race that is in question, which is the IFMAR Worlds. Billy drove a full plastic car. On that track, in that condition. That is what he felt best. And he has the trophy to prove it.
Get the car. You'll be happy. Good car.
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:35 PM   #7
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My son drove the B4 for a year before switching to the RB5 and I haven't noticed a difference in durability. We broke a few arms but then they should have broke from the typ of hit. I found the car to be very durable.

As for Kyosho, things have changed since the good ol days and they are more responsive to their drivers. The team drivers in our area save broken parts and I have seen these parts beefed up. A different company for sure.
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Old 03-12-2008, 06:20 PM   #8
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James Does Kyosho make the RB 5 I;ve not seen it in the mag's but I olny started buying them 2 months ago.Who is Kyosho's distributor I know when I was in the hobby a while back and now just getting into hobby and Great Planes was there distributor.
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Old 03-12-2008, 06:47 PM   #9
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Boy....you can go around and around on this one. But I would consider what everyone else at your track is using(if one is better than the other). Like some of the other posts have stated.....the carbon ones give more of a feel while the plastic ones will "bend" and be less reponsive. Generally...the higher the bite...the carbon ones "work". Lower bite makes the car easier to drive(more weight, not as reponsive). I remember at the nats in Indy(05') we ran stock everything since the bite was not there!

Be sure to experiment for yourself....your opinion matters more than anyone else's.
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:47 PM   #10
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Mr Mellow I olny care about durablity.Me and some friends are going to make a track at his dads farm and were olny racing for fun.So all I care about is that I'am not breaking A ARMS every week.
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:50 PM   #11
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This may sound biased but I am giving an honest opinion- I run a B4 and have had great success with it. I have had to replace parts before they break. Yes, if you clip a pipe hard, hit another car hard, or come up short while flying sideways on a jump, you will break a front arm. Front Caster blocks will break too. Other than that I have had no durability issues with my B4. On the other hand (and I am not trying to badmouth Kyosho, as I have driven an RB5 and think it drives very well), I race with a couple of kyosho drivers and have seen t-plates and rear transmission cases break fairly frequently. I have also seen the rear shock tower break pretty easily. Again, this is pure observation, but I truly believe the B4 is the most durable 2wd buggy on the market.
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:36 PM   #12
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The early versions had some durability issues with some of the parts. Most of the weak parts have been beefed up and I rarely break anything now. Although I like driving the RB5 better than the B4, I think the B4 FT comes better equipped than the RB5 at the same price. The RB5 fits my driving style better so I am staying with it.

Wade - Kyosho America in Irvine is the distributer. Like I mentioned they are making a serious push into the US market and have a base in California to get it going.

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Originally Posted by ms3 Chris View Post
This may sound biased but I am giving an honest opinion- I run a B4 and have had great success with it. I have had to replace parts before they break. Yes, if you clip a pipe hard, hit another car hard, or come up short while flying sideways on a jump, you will break a front arm. Front Caster blocks will break too. Other than that I have had no durability issues with my B4. On the other hand (and I am not trying to badmouth Kyosho, as I have driven an RB5 and think it drives very well), I race with a couple of kyosho drivers and have seen t-plates and rear transmission cases break fairly frequently. I have also seen the rear shock tower break pretty easily. Again, this is pure observation, but I truly believe the B4 is the most durable 2wd buggy on the market.
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Old 03-12-2008, 10:21 PM   #13
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I always liked Kyosho and might consider one of there kits if they had a distributor in Canada,I can see me shopping for parts accross the boarder it is insane trying to get stuff threw customs right now.I got a battery charger from someone on this site and he got the money order on feb 26th and sent it out the same day and still no sign of it I checked the tracking numbersand it says he sent it out so I know it's coming plus he has 11 trades on this site and not one negative thing has been said about him.It all started about 8 months ago with customs for stuff coming into the usa or canada they open every box now,because some Tard Monkey thought it was a good idea to send blocks of cheese threw the mail wired to look like bombs made with C4 and thats the problem they talked about on the news with the x-ray machines they run the parcels threw they cannot tell the difference between C4 and cheese.If you get stuff sent the faster methods it make it to me from anywhere in the states in 5 to 7 days not bad but the cost on shipping would make a rich man think twice before laying out that kind of cash,to have the charger sent out xpress was 25 bucks so right there if I went that route with shipping I might as well buy the thing new.I like Kyosho's 1/8 stuff and some other kits they have and had but the olny that has made me in the past steer clear of them was they would make a kit and then stop supporting it 2 years later and if they did not stop completely it was next to impossible to get parts.But then again if it was not for Kyosho we would not have the 1/10th nitro trucks,the first truck I got was the outlaw rampage truck and I know it was the first because I read the mags for a year wanting the rampage buggy then the truck came out and the tax man was extra nice that year I got my first job and spent my whole tax return on the kit,so that should tell you how long I've been doing this,I'm sure if you asked most guys if they ever heard of the outlaw rampage they would'nt have a clue.
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