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Old 03-12-2008, 07:25 AM   #1
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Default Track building

Hey all
We are building a new track in Israel and I have a question:
In what way you think is best to attaché to pipes to the ground?
Up until now we are using a “U” shapes still bars that hold the pipes from the top and go into the ground.
The problem is that it is breaking arm if you drive to close to is and also they eventually pop out.
I would like to here any suggestions.
Thanks
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:10 AM   #2
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If your using the flexable tubing then use rail road ties. Hard tubing u can use the end pieces allowing you to put a short piec at 90 degrees and burry the ends.
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:35 AM   #3
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spikes through the black plastic drain pipe.
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:47 AM   #4
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Definitely- use rail road ties and just hammer them back in every once in a while- they will come out, but they are much less likely to 'grab' cars like those U shaped brackets.
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Old 03-12-2008, 10:02 AM   #5
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you could also place some dirt arounf them but not completely burry them
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Old 03-13-2008, 01:20 AM   #6
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Thanks to all,
Could you please attached a picture of these rail road ties so I will know what you ment?
Thanks
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Old 03-13-2008, 03:34 AM   #7
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They are known as railway sleepers where I am from (I think - just did a google search because I'd never heard of them before).

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Old 03-13-2008, 04:49 AM   #8
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No - that's not them. They're talking about a railroad tie which looks like a big nail. You just hammer it through the middle of the soft plastic pipe and into the ground.
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Old 03-13-2008, 04:53 AM   #9
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they are called spikes
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Old 03-13-2008, 05:42 AM   #10
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The first picture is a railroad spike. But you do not want to use those.
The second picture is of many steel shafts called Rebar. This is what you want to use to hold down...
The third picture which is corrugated plastic pipe.

You get long coils of the corrugated plastic pipe and create your lanes. As you are laying the pipe out you hammer 2 foot(.75m) sections of rebar through the center of the pipe every few feet. This will hold your pipe down and not become a hazard. The pipe is strong enough to hold its shape from vehicle impact while still giving a little bit so as not to break the vehicle. This is the standard off road track design in the United States. You were talking about an offroad track right?
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Track building-railroad_spikes.jpg   Track building-trebar.jpg   Track building-corplaspipe.gif  
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Old 03-13-2008, 06:02 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thugs Bunny View Post
The first picture is a railroad spike. But you do not want to use those.
The second picture is of many steel shafts called Rebar. This is what you want to use to hold down...
The third picture which is corrugated plastic pipe.

You get long coils of the corrugated plastic pipe and create your lanes. As you are laying the pipe out you hammer 2 foot(.75m) sections of rebar through the center of the pipe every few feet. This will hold your pipe down and not become a hazard. The pipe is strong enough to hold its shape from vehicle impact while still giving a little bit so as not to break the vehicle. This is the standard off road track design in the United States. You were talking about an offroad track right?
Thank you very much for the detailed answer.
We tried the rebar idea a few years ago and it is problematic for 2 reasons:
First, when a car run into the pipe it lifts up as there is nothing to hold it after you punched 2 holes in it to pass the rebar.
Second, if you starch the pipe it will rip and weakened around the hole and eventually will break.
When I first said that we used U-shaped still bars I meant the rebars bent to a U shape and surrounds the pipe from the top.
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Old 03-13-2008, 06:59 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBRacing View Post
Thank you very much for the detailed answer.
We tried the rebar idea a few years ago and it is problematic for 2 reasons:
First, when a car run into the pipe it lifts up as there is nothing to hold it after you punched 2 holes in it to pass the rebar.
Second, if you starch the pipe it will rip and weakened around the hole and eventually will break.
When I first said that we used U-shaped still bars I meant the rebars bent to a U shape and surrounds the pipe from the top.
I take the Rebar and weld a large washer on the top to create a type of LONG nail. The average length of my stakes are 16"-18". I have longer ones for the edges of jumps.
For my track which is about 500 ft of run, I have about 200 stakes. There is no perfect way to do it. If you crash, you still can damage the vehicle... but then you can say.. don't crash!! LOL!
The flat washer on the top.. about 2" in diameter will secure the pipe from coming up and also help protect the pipe from tearing. You pound it in until is just pressurizes the top of the pipe, not crush it.

I have been running the track for 8 years and am still using the same pipe.
Check it out at
http://www.rcproductdesigns.com/2007WashtenawTrack.htm
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Old 03-13-2008, 07:05 AM   #13
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Dear Dan,
Thank you for the idea.
As a meter of fact, I’m one of the 2 customers you have in Israel for the 1/8 conversions.
Thanks again
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Old 03-13-2008, 11:45 PM   #14
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i'm going to be building an outdoors track, for my gas powered revos and 1/10 scale electric stadium trucks, on my property and own 30 acres (so i shouldnt be limited in size at all).

how wide would you suggest it should it be? are national rc tracks wider than local club tracks, and if so, what is the difference in width?

how long in length do you guys think is the average outdoors rc track?

if anyone could give me ideas on track layout (putting in pit lanes, how far to space double and triple jumps apart, etc), dirt composition (should i use clay?), and how big of a space (overall track dimensions) i should be using, it would be great.

any other ideas and info, such as how to make a stand for drivers, track grooming equipment needed, and how-to advice would help as well.

it'd be great if you can include pics or drawn layouts of your tracks!

thanks!

Last edited by jedsled; 03-13-2008 at 11:59 PM.
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Old 03-14-2008, 06:40 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedsled View Post
i'm going to be building an outdoors track, for my gas powered revos and 1/10 scale electric stadium trucks, on my property and own 30 acres (so i shouldnt be limited in size at all).

how wide would you suggest it should it be? are national rc tracks wider than local club tracks, and if so, what is the difference in width?

how long in length do you guys think is the average outdoors rc track?

if anyone could give me ideas on track layout (putting in pit lanes, how far to space double and triple jumps apart, etc), dirt composition (should i use clay?), and how big of a space (overall track dimensions) i should be using, it would be great.

any other ideas and info, such as how to make a stand for drivers, track grooming equipment needed, and how-to advice would help as well.

it'd be great if you can include pics or drawn layouts of your tracks!

thanks!
I will try to go one question at a time.
Track width-
usually 8=10 ft. IF you are going to have a bunch of large Nitro vehicles run at the same time, you can go 12 ft.

Track Length and space.. for outdoors. 500 -700 ft. 150 ft back straight at the most for a combo track for electric and Nitro. I would suggest you go no deeper than 75 ft from the drivers stand. Any farther than that and a 1/0th scale vehicle gets hard to see.

Drivers stand. At least 4-5 ft above the track. As long as you want it.... An easy way to make it is modular. Make a platform frame with 2" X 6" or 2" X 8" and use two joices down the middle for support then top it off with 3/4" plywood or particle board. THEN make 2 stand offs approximately 2'X 45" that fit in underneath with 4"X4" corner posts that fit up into the platforms about 4 ". tUse a 2"X6" header on each stand off that the platform will sit on front and rear. Do not have them sit on the 4"X4". You do not have to tie the stand offs together, the platform does that.
This makes an extemely stable drivers stand. We have 4 sections at my track that make up a 32ft drivers stand. You can add to it as you need it. And it stacks and stores very well if you need to put it away for the winter.
Check out pics at http://www.rcproductdesigns.com/washtenaw_track.htm

Track Design.. What ever you want!!!! Make it fun. Time jumps as you are making them. that is part of the fun of building a track. Make the technical stuff closer to the drivers stand... make the fast stuff away. I always make the straight at the back of the track.

Make some areas easy to drive.. and some a little tougher.

Track equipment. How much money do you have??? LOL!! A BobCat would be nice!! LOL!!

My first track was cut thru the grass in my back yard with a rototiller. I did not need pipes. By the time I got thru the grass and cleaned it all out... I had a nice 2-3" barrier to define the track. You will need shovels, rakes, tampers for compressing your jumps. Wheelbarrow, sledge hammer if you are using pipes and stakes.
Hopefully you will have water to keep the track moist.. if not it will dry out rock hard.
If you want to keep it nice.... Try to get some huge tarps to cover it when you are not using it. That will help with weeds and erosion.
Because you have a lot of space... Another thing you might like to try is a ROVAL.. that is a nice size OVAL on the outside and then in a selected place, you can turn in off the OVAL on to the rest of the Off Road course then back out on to the oval. You have the best of both worlds.

You don't want pure clay... It will soon turn to concrete like surface. Top soil, sand, clay mix is nice. Something you can work with but will hold it's shape fairly well.

Hope this helps get you started.
Be sure to post some pics when you get going and when you are done.
Dan
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