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Old 03-14-2008, 08:37 AM   #16
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Thank you very much for the detailed answer.
We tried the rebar idea a few years ago and it is problematic for 2 reasons:
First, when a car run into the pipe it lifts up as there is nothing to hold it after you punched 2 holes in it to pass the rebar.
Second, if you starch the pipe it will rip and weakened around the hole and eventually will break.
When I first said that we used U-shaped still bars I meant the rebars bent to a U shape and surrounds the pipe from the top.
use the rebar bent in a U shape, but hammer it in parallel to the lanes, so that the U is going in the same direction as the pipe, that way it will hold the pipe down and will also not stick out into the race surface

you just rotate them 90 degrees from how you currently have them
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Old 03-14-2008, 12:23 PM   #17
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Great post, Thanks for the info!

I have 5 acres and have been thinking about how to layout a track for 1/10 trucks.
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Old 03-14-2008, 01:31 PM   #18
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yeah just like most of the people use a long metal spike
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Old 03-14-2008, 03:11 PM   #19
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thanks for the info dan! and everyone else!

post up your track pics!
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Old 03-14-2008, 03:28 PM   #20
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I take the Rebar and weld a large washer on the top to create a type of LONG nail. The average length of my stakes are 16"-18". I have longer ones for the edges of jumps.
For my track which is about 500 ft of run, I have about 200 stakes. There is no perfect way to do it. If you crash, you still can damage the vehicle... but then you can say.. don't crash!! LOL!
The flat washer on the top.. about 2" in diameter will secure the pipe from coming up and also help protect the pipe from tearing. You pound it in until is just pressurizes the top of the pipe, not crush it.

I have been running the track for 8 years and am still using the same pipe.
Check it out at
http://www.rcproductdesigns.com/2007WashtenawTrack.htm
You can actually GET 'long nails' that are perfect for corrugated pipe. They are 12" long and have a head on them. You can find them at the hardware store.

Last edited by mfishel; 03-14-2008 at 03:28 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 03-16-2008, 05:37 AM   #21
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How do you calculate the angle of the jumps?
Thanks
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Old 03-16-2008, 01:47 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by artie's liver View Post
use the rebar bent in a U shape, but hammer it in parallel to the lanes, so that the U is going in the same direction as the pipe, that way it will hold the pipe down and will also not stick out into the race surface

you just rotate them 90 degrees from how you currently have them
I like this idea a lot. The typical spikes always worry me. I'm concerned that some clumsy oaf marshall (you talkin' to ME???) will fall down on a spike while heroically (yep, me!) saving someone's run. I've even seen spikes that stick up a ways.

Let's remember we need to get through the day safely, so we can get back to work, earn some dough to buy more stuff we don't need!
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Old 03-19-2008, 02:15 PM   #23
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does anyone have pics of their track or layouts to share?
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Old 03-19-2008, 04:35 PM   #24
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You can actually GET 'long nails' that are perfect for corrugated pipe. They are 12" long and have a head on them. You can find them at the hardware store.
Ya this is the easiest. We us these long (12 inch) nails too. Got them at the home depot.
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Old 04-05-2008, 06:19 PM   #25
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Thumbs up J B Racing

I do not know what is avaliable to you.. but if your using the 4 inch black septic flex pip.. then going to a hardware store.. get a long spike or nail that is about 7 inches long... you will need to put a metal washer because after that pipe gets hit a few times it will pop off the nail or spike head...

Here in idaho we have a ag dealer who supplies spud chain to the local farmers .. we take these and take them apart . cut them into half and that is how we attach the flex pipe to the ground..

U might look into the local fire department.. see what they do with their old hoses..... fill them with something light but filling and use them as your pipe around you track...
What do you treat the dirt with???

For more info write me at [email protected].. have some suggestions on how to give your dirt traction....
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Old 04-05-2008, 06:22 PM   #26
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Smile Jedsled!!

We here in idaho have had a large (largest in the state )for over 10 years.. and still have some of our layouts...

write me and I will find a way to fax or scan them for you...

We have track designers come from neighboring state to try their best to set up our track for each season....


[email protected]
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Old 04-05-2008, 07:27 PM   #27
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Near the top of this page:

http://heptel.net/Megahorsepower/RaceTracks.html

Is my track from last year. It will change a bit for this year.

I use 12" spikes and 3" corrugated drain pipe. It is built with 8' lanes for 1/10th electric.

Weed Control is a primary challenge. No drivers stand, thus the smaller size track. No real jumps due to shoveling effort.
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Old 04-05-2008, 09:30 PM   #28
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Nice lookin track.. fast.. very fast looking...

About the shovel... when I re do a track.. I try to invite as many racers that can show.. most are running the shovels.. and packing .. only a few are allowed to use the marking paint to do the lay out.. but all re invited to lay pipe and pound stakes.....

We have a driver stand that is 9 feet in the air.. we put it up on risers last year when we needed to expand our track..some very simple ideas.. to put together a drivers stand...



do you treat your soil? ( dirt)
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Old 04-06-2008, 12:20 PM   #29
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KC C,

That picture was shortly after the tilling and the rolling, so it looks good at that time. Later on, weeds become difficult. I may try out some salt, maybe. Otherwise, the soil is totally native to the area, just farm soil of a sandy loam -- it packs pretty nice, but it will flake off into fluff rather than to rut or crack.

I want to do 3-4' pallet rack for a driver's stand. This is a low-key track, so I don't want to put too much cash into it. Someone else recommended picnic tables for stands, which would also be appropriate for this track. I am trying to avoid all building permits and business zoning questions (by using portable stuff and not charging money).
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