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Old 03-08-2008, 01:23 PM   #31
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I'm pretty sure the new MaxAmps packs have a hard case. And they offer a retro fit case for existing packs.
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Old 03-11-2008, 02:55 PM   #32
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I will be buying this setup this coming weekend. Then the madness begins. My first mission, will be to terrorize the neighbor's cat.

35 and getting younger every minute.
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Old 03-17-2008, 09:03 AM   #33
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GOT IT!

Didn't get exactly what I was shooting for. Ended up with:
-RC10B4 Stealth (wanted Team Factory but they didn't have it and I was impatient)
-8.5 Novak GTB Brushless/ESC
-Team Checkpoint LiPo Battery 7.4V 5400Mah
-Spektrum DS3.0 3-channel controller (2.4ghz spread specturm; came with 2 recievers and 1 high torque servo and one standard BB servo)
-Multiplex Charger and Team Checkpoint balancer

Damn is this thing fast. I am actually kind of glad that I got the 8.5 motor. I never would have thought they could get this fast. I still have a lot of work to do now. I have to start dialing it in. I have as yet no brake on my ESC (probably should have read the instructions ) that will be fixed though. Then I have to replace the stupid plastic nuts with metal ones. Oh and I hate hex screws....my god I must have stripped 2 or 3 of my smallest hex keys trying screw stuff in...especially those hinge pin retainers. I may switch them ALL out with manly phillips screws

3 months and then I buy my Clodbuster My bank account is mad at me. Won't even return my calls.

OHHHH. The neighbors cat....won't be getting its muddy paws on my car anymore. Spent a half hour chasing that thing all over my yard. Good times!
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Old 03-17-2008, 10:33 AM   #34
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I would recommend that instead of switching out the screws, go with a good set of hex drivers. I have used the integy set pretty much exclusively, and I have had zero issues with stripping. I also have used the dynamite machined version (not the cheapo ones, they suck) of hex drivers, and they work quite well too.

Your setup though should be a blast. A question for you, when you got your checkpoint lipo in, did it list it as an updated 20C lipo or is it one of those that went out as a 16C instead?
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Old 03-17-2008, 11:38 AM   #35
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the list is looks very good but i can see that your missing 1 thing whisch is a power supply to run you duratrax ice but everything else looks good and dont forget you will need hex drivers screwdrivers ect ya know the right tools for the job but everything else looks good
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Old 03-17-2008, 11:47 AM   #36
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I was reading this and thinking I just went through the same thing last year, after a 12 year break. Just I bought all cheap stuff, then resold it all shortly there after and ended up with all higher end stuff just like you have now.

Glad to see 4 things that I was going to comment on. 1- higher mah battery which you did, 2- 8.5 motor because 6.5 is border line redicolusly (sp) fast and just about over powered for a 2wd buggy, (my .02) and 3- the radio but you did get the 2.4g. and wont have to worry about radio intereference. 4- the buggy itself. The Factory Team kit has great, but not necessary upgrades, though the Team kit will do every thing the Factory Team kit will do, just about $50 or so cheaper.

Good choice on everything too.

For the new to the sport kids in the family, did you think about getting them the RTR kit. Just a thought because if they dont get into the hobby the way that you did, at least its not a lot of money spent, and they are upgradeable down the road.
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Old 03-17-2008, 11:49 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superdave2 View Post
the list is looks very good but i can see that your missing 1 thing whisch is a power supply to run you duratrax ice but everything else looks good and dont forget you will need hex drivers screwdrivers ect ya know the right tools for the job but everything else looks good
Power supply, I didnt even think about. If your able to use your (real) car battery to run the charger your fine. But if not or if you want to charge it away from your garage, you will need the power supply.
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Old 03-17-2008, 12:21 PM   #38
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If your going to race the B4, I would got to the track where you plan to race and watch and talk to the top drivers and see what they are running. As far as car...great choice! I have a T4 and a Kyosho RB5, really like both. As far as transmitter goes...go 2.4 gig. You'll be so happy you did. The motors, tires, and batteries look and see what is being run at the track. The speedo is the only other choice...brushed, or brushless? Again what the top drivers using? I think you'll be happy either way you go about it. I research everything before I buy, just cause this hobby can get very expensive. You'll get further ahead being a educated buyer. Welcome back!
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Old 03-17-2008, 01:05 PM   #39
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Quote:
the list is looks very good but i can see that your missing 1 thing whisch is a power supply to run you duratrax ice but everything else looks good and dont forget you will need hex drivers screwdrivers ect ya know the right tools for the job but everything else looks good
I have a power supply. Forgot to mention it. One thing I have to ask. If I want to charge my battery off of my car battery, do I just use the alligator clips and plug directly yo the battery? (I already have the feeling that I should keep the car running if I can do that).

The guy at the hobby shop was pretty cool. He said I was the best customer ever. It was like internet shopping. I just pointed and clicked and the shopping cart swelled.

One other thing about my charger, It only charges up to 5000mah but my battery is a 5400. How does this affect my battery, if at all?

I am kind of glad that I didn't get the factory team kit. I will be crashing this thing a lot getting used to it again. SO as I break stuff....and I will break stuff, they will just be replaced with upgrades....i LOVE upgrades. In an odd sort of way, it encourages recklessness as a speedy means to upgrade. In fact, every time I break something on my new RC ride I am going to throw and upgrade party.

Quote:
Your setup though should be a blast. A question for you, when you got your checkpoint lipo in, did it list it as an updated 20C lipo or is it one of those that went out as a 16C instead?
Hmm. Maybe its time to read that instruction manual too. I will get back to you on that.
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Old 03-17-2008, 01:08 PM   #40
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Keep in mind aluminum is heavy........
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Old 03-17-2008, 02:02 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomBlaze View Post
(I already have the feeling that I should keep the car running if I can do that)
I *thought* I had read somewhere recently that you shouldn't have your car running while charging. I believe cars put out around 14+VDC while they're running and that could damage some components.... I have to double check though...
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Old 03-17-2008, 08:17 PM   #42
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To answer your two questions.

Do not leave your car running while charging the battery. It is not necessary and you will just wear and tear on your car for no reason.

Your RC battery is small, your car battery is much larger. You can charge several RC batteries with out worring about starting your car. It draws less power than leaving your radio on.

Yes the aligator clips connect to the battery terminals just as jumper cables would.

Your 5000mah charger will charge your 5400 battery, it will just take slightly longer. Depending on the charger it may stop at 5000mah. If it does, just re start it and let it finish the remaining 400mah.

Im to lazy to look back but didnt you buy or mention the ICE charger? That charges up to 10,000 mah.

Good luck with everything. Oh also buy a couple of spare parts, like a-arms, an extra pair of tires, and a good tool set is priceless.
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Old 03-19-2008, 09:57 AM   #43
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Thanks for input. Much appreciated!

I have learned:

1. I suck at soldering.
2. Its bad when you crash and your motor leads touch (dodged a bullet on that one)
3. Plastic nuts suck.
4. Plastic shock caps suck.
5. Programming an ESC is a mindnumbing excperience (what happened to plug-n-play?)
6. RC cars are far more tempermental than they used to be.
7. I am paying the rent at my local hobby shop
8. My bank account just filed for divorce.
9. One should not start ripping around on pavement with an off road car with off road tires. Things break.
10. When all is said and done I will probably end up replacing a minimum of 50% of my car before I fall into my rhythm.

Good thing I am getting overtime at the job and even better that I am not married. I hear married men are not allowed to have fun. Their wives take thier fun out to the woods and shoot it.

Now a few more questions:

1. Any good website that has soldering tips?
2. Can anyone give me a rundown on programming the ESC/Radio. As it is now I have so much trim that I cannot get 100% reverse and barely any brake. (probably why I am breaking the car so much).
3. My ESC does not clear my body and it is a pain in the ass to get it on. Any ideas as to how to get things to fit?
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Old 03-19-2008, 12:56 PM   #44
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The only soldering tip that I have is use flux. If you need it use it. If you dont need it use it, if you are not sure - use it, if you dont have any buy some and use it.

I am the worlds worst solderer and since my intorduction with flux, Im just as good as any one else.

Also buy a quality iron or gun, which ever you perfer and make sure it is very HOT before you try to use it.

Good luck.
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Old 03-19-2008, 02:29 PM   #45
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Great cheap iron i use is a weller 40wt.

totally wanna say model sp40l dont know why but it's orange and thin and is 40watts. can be had on the interwebs for bout 13 bucks.

seriously this is a good iron. just as good as a hakko except the tips dont last as long but considering you prolly use bl/lipo it shouldnt matter.
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