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Old 04-07-2008, 02:24 AM   #31
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Hi guys!

Happy Sp GT ESC user here!

Do you know if the timing setings on the ESC works with LRP/Novak BL motors??
On the manual it says to use 0.0 timing for these motors...

I guess it only works with Feiago motors (SP, Orion, GM, Trinity, etc..)

Thanks!!
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Old 04-07-2008, 03:43 AM   #32
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Hi Neil,

Not running a fan on either car mate. Think I'll have to re-visit the speedie set up on the B4. Temp is clearly not right.

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Old 04-07-2008, 02:21 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loverc View Post
Hi guys!

Happy Sp GT ESC user here!

Do you know if the timing setings on the ESC works with LRP/Novak BL motors??
On the manual it says to use 0.0 timing for these motors...

I guess it only works with Feiago motors (SP, Orion, GM, Trinity, etc..)

Thanks!!
I guess I need to re-visit my manual. Been running the Novak 13.5 with timing turned up....set it to zero initially, then level 5 (I think). Unless I'm fooling myself, increased timing yields higher speed on straights and a touch more punch.

I am super pleased with this speedo. Granted, I'm running a stock BL motor but it's coming off the track cool as a cucumber with no fan. The settings box is genius!

Last edited by jubilee; 04-07-2008 at 02:39 PM.
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Old 04-07-2008, 02:36 PM   #34
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The timing will work with "non-Feiago" based motors.

If you use Novak or LRP motors the timing advance will work for those motors as well



Quote:
Originally Posted by Loverc View Post
Hi guys!

Happy Sp GT ESC user here!

Do you know if the timing setings on the ESC works with LRP/Novak BL motors??
On the manual it says to use 0.0 timing for these motors...

I guess it only works with Feiago motors (SP, Orion, GM, Trinity, etc..)

Thanks!!
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Last edited by abailey21; 04-07-2008 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 04-07-2008, 02:40 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
The timing will work with "non-Feiago" based motors.

If you use Novak or LRP motors the timing advance will work for those motors as well

(on a side note LRP is/was Feiago based as well)
Here's another example of why buying the SP GT is a good choice.

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Old 04-07-2008, 03:07 PM   #36
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Quote:
100 degree C is more than 200 degree F
Actually 100 C = 273 F (boiling point for water)

35 C = 90 F for those that may not know conversions.

I was just feeling a bit nerdy so I figured I would throw that out there.
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Old 04-07-2008, 03:20 PM   #37
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Yeah I must have misconstrued what he meant as well, so he had a speedo at 100C?

Thats seems awfully hot when the same temps can melt solder, plastic and many other items
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Old 04-07-2008, 03:25 PM   #38
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To clarify the manual and motor timing:

The manual recomends running the physical timing on the motor itself (if adjustable) at zero.

In truth - REGARDLESS of what BL motor you're running, the GT ESC alone controls timing advance, because it's switching into sensorless mode almost immediately after the motor starts turning ("Hybrid Drive"). Therefore - any timing advance positions on the motor (which are sensor-based) aren't being used anymore.

Obviously a BIG tuning advantage if your motor itself has no adjustable advance.
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Old 04-07-2008, 04:01 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn Palmer View Post
To clarify the manual and motor timing:

The manual recomends running the physical timing on the motor itself (if adjustable) at zero.

In truth - REGARDLESS of what BL motor you're running, the GT ESC alone controls timing advance, because it's switching into sensorless mode almost immediately after the motor starts turning ("Hybrid Drive"). Therefore - any timing advance positions on the motor (which are sensor-based) aren't being used anymore.

Obviously a BIG tuning advantage if your motor itself has no adjustable advance.
I ran my first races this weekend. Spektrum DX2.0 radio, SP GT esc, and Novak 13.5. On Saturday, the field was very small. Maybe 5 drivers. Sunday, the track was packed all day. On Sunday I had some issues with a periodic throttle delay. Is this the dreaded delay that happens when 2.4ghz radios "bump" into each other? Or could it be something else entirely?
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Old 04-07-2008, 06:08 PM   #40
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Thanks Shawn!

After like 3mins of running my servo cuts off for a few seconds....could this ve the SP GT??

The servo isnt particualy warm...could it be the bec of the ESC being alittle low? 6v but 2amps???

I know need to try another servo but its always been working fine...Its a Blue Bird (new versions), I know what your think, these are crap but I think they like havin a 3/3.5amp BEC

Need to do more testing/changing servo..
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Old 04-07-2008, 06:33 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomBlaze View Post
Actually 100 C = 273 F (boiling point for water)

35 C = 90 F for those that may not know conversions.

I was just feeling a bit nerdy so I figured I would throw that out there.
Actually... the boiling point of water is 212 F, which is also equal to 100 C
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:03 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomBlaze View Post
Actually 100 C = 273 F (boiling point for water)

35 C = 90 F for those that may not know conversions.

I was just feeling a bit nerdy so I figured I would throw that out there.
273? Perhaps thinking of Absolute Zero?

And your second is off by 5 as well.

Come on, don't give real nerds a bad name, my friend.

Last edited by Dave H; 04-08-2008 at 05:17 PM.
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Old 04-08-2008, 08:53 AM   #43
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Loverc:
I'd swap the servo with a known good one and see what happens. The BEC on the GT is surprisingly good. I tried to shut it down with a hi-torque digital last night to no avail. But a dying servo can draw a whole lot more power than that.

Jubilee:
Sat everything was all good, but Sun you felt latency? (slow/delayed responding throttle/steering)

If so, then yes, that sounds logical that some latency could have been creeping into the 2.4 systems. The "next gen" 2.4 systems actually use more "channels" than the originals, so instead of your 2.0 taking up 2 of the more or less 80 "channels" available (presuming no other household devices were on 2.4 nearby) the latest stuff is using 4 "channels" each. With almost everyone on 2.4 now and free to have radios on in the pits without worrying about interference, things can fill up in a hurry with a packed house.

Personally, this is why I'm really enjoying my 75mhz stuff right now - almost no one left on it, so extremely little interference issues and no latency.
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:58 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn Palmer View Post
Jubilee:
Sat everything was all good, but Sun you felt latency? (slow/delayed responding throttle/steering)

If so, then yes, that sounds logical that some latency could have been creeping into the 2.4 systems. The "next gen" 2.4 systems actually use more "channels" than the originals, so instead of your 2.0 taking up 2 of the more or less 80 "channels" available (presuming no other household devices were on 2.4 nearby) the latest stuff is using 4 "channels" each. With almost everyone on 2.4 now and free to have radios on in the pits without worrying about interference, things can fill up in a hurry with a packed house.

Personally, this is why I'm really enjoying my 75mhz stuff right now - almost no one left on it, so extremely little interference issues and no latency.
That's kinda what I figured. Not a HUGE deal, just a minor annoyance. I can't say the odd latency here and there had much to do with my mediocre finishes, so much as my poor skills.

Another question....when I first set up my esc, Neutral % was on setting #2. I've since changed it to #1. With no throttle applied, I see my red LED on the esc flickering. Prior to changing from Neutral % setting 2 to 1 it stayed off unless I applied throttle with the trigger. Is this normal? I don't think it functionally affects anything, just wondering...
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Old 04-08-2008, 10:21 AM   #45
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Jubilee,

You may want to recalibrate to the radio after changing the deadband %.

When the light is flickering like that, the throttle signal is fluttering back and forth right on the edge of "brakes" and "neutral". A click or two of FW trim will also turn out the light and give you neutral back.
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