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Old 01-27-2008, 03:45 AM   #1
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Default 2wd VS. 4wd

hi all, im thinking very hard about changing to off-road scene. atm i race mod TC...

i cant decide which drive to get 2wd or 4wd

can someone try to relate how the cars have to be driven? differently?

i say this because undoubtly for me 4wd is going to be easier to adapt... but the shir cheapness of 2wd is evening out the arguement.

Plus i want the class thats going to give me the most fun aswell as value for money and reasonably cheap. ( Because touring cars EAT your wallet!!!)

so can someone help me make my choice.

Also could you state the 2wd or 4wd you would chose to have???

thanks jordan
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Old 01-27-2008, 04:00 AM   #2
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I have both, I much prefer my 4WD's.

They just hook up and get the funk out.

I only have a 2WD (a B4) so I can race in more classes.

My current 4WD;'s are an Academy SBv2 Pro and a Tamiya DB-01, Out of the box the Academy is (imo) a far superior car, But the DB-01 is pretty sweet, Just needs a fair bit of cash spent on her to bring it up to spec.
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Old 01-27-2008, 04:02 AM   #3
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hard to say. i race TC and went to 2wd and loved it. recently got a ZX-5 and i like the way it handles though since its a little heavier and dirt is alot looser than asphalt, they start off more challenging to drive but you get use to it and then when you figure it out it becomes really easy to drive. Im a stock racer, so being in mod 4wd was a jump for me. 2wd stock was super fun and super simple.

best bet, hit the track and make friends with the folks. Try out some 2wds and some 4wds and see whatcha think.
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Old 01-27-2008, 04:19 AM   #4
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hi agen...

ive just looked at my clubs race results and realised that there is only 2 2wd's
and they are quite far down in the table...

so i reckon 4wd would be a better way to go... one thing i must ask is...

is off-road guna give me a good fun race meeting compared to TC because i dont wanna spend the money gettin into 4wd off-road to find that it was a mistake!!!

also my track is very bumpy/grass and rages from small to reasonably big depending on the layout we choose...

what 4wd would you reccomend... ive looked at the B44 because its obviously very well priced for the spec. also looked at the hotbodies d4... aswell as the xx4

ill probally race a brushed 6 or 7 turn motor so i need a car that can cope with a good bang and a serious work... it needs to be strong!!!!

ino im askin for quite alot... but its because im 15 coming 16 and i dont have enough the money just to throw at the hobby...

this is also one of the main reasons for moving away from TC... although how much i love it... i really cannot afford it...

jordan
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Old 01-27-2008, 05:21 AM   #5
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In my opinion 2wd would be the way to go if you are trying to stay cheaper yet competitive. Just think twice the moving parts and at my local shop 2wd parts are plenty. I have a brushlass T4 and B4, have had both 6+ months both see a fair amount of play away from the track and all that I have broken is about 5 front a-arms between them. Just my .02
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Old 01-27-2008, 06:33 AM   #6
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I race both and find that while I love the way that 4wd turns like its on rails, its more problematic to run. The 2wd takes more skill to get around the track fast.

Personally I prefer the 2wd as IMO, it takes more skill to drive well.

I also tend to break more on my 4wd, it goes through tires twice as fast as well. In the half dozen times I've raced both, I've broken something on my 4wd every time out, from ball-cups, arms, shock shaft, and bulkhead. Always seems to be something. But so far (knock-on-wood), nothing on my 2wd....
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Old 01-27-2008, 06:49 AM   #7
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I have always been a stock 2wd racer. I got my Lazer ZX5 this past year and I love it. I have an RB5 too, but I always find myself running the Lazer a few packs more. I run a 6.5 brushless in it and it is amazing. No one really mentioned this option for you. Get the ZX5 readyset, that was the first ZX5 I bought and it was a great car, easily as competitive as the kit version after I put a setup on it. But get that car, swap in your ESC of choice and motor of choice and you have a CHEAP, but race ready 4wd.

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Old 01-27-2008, 10:01 AM   #8
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the RTR kyosho looks pretty good for the money, though, not sure how much you will get out of resale of electronics. I would say maybe $50 if you are lucky? Figure that in with the cost difference between it and the race version ZX5 (non SP). The ZX5 (non-SP version) can be had for $210 as well since the new SP version is out. From what I have been reading, its a good car, and for the money would make a good starting point. I would give it a strong consideration. Starting out, not sure how much of a difference you will notice between the ZX5 and the ZX5 SP to justify the price difference.

For durability and performance, the Academy SBV2 Pros (not the regular) are really up there. The 2wd GV2 version also appears to be quite durable and is a great performer.

The B44 from what I have read lives up to its BJ4WE roots which is great. Only thing I would have an issue with the car is the whole saddle pack deal but thats me as I like lipo. Other than maxamps, I am not sure if there is anyone else with saddles out at this time. And with the whole roar hard case rule, curious if maxamps stuff will be legal?

As for the question 2wd versus 4wd, with the 4wd you can put more power down since it is 4wd, and its easier to drive. You will how have more maintence because of this, more moving parts, faster speeds equals more chance to break something etc.

I would say the first thing to do is go to your track, and see what the turnout is for the various classes. Based on that, if 4wd has enough support that there are regularly at least 2 heats full (assuming a heat is 6 cars) I would give it strong consideration. Reason I say two heats instead of say one large heat is that with everything, people can be fickle and will move in and out of classes. If there is a good amount of people in a class, you can figure with people moving in and out, it should still be well supported. It would really suck to plunk down money in a wheeler and when you start to race some group of guys quit, and now the class is defunct or worse, you get a 3 man show which for some reason, SOMEONE ALWAYS BREAKS!

Now, after you see how the classes are, assuming they are both supported, see if anyone would let you wheel there vehicle for a bit to get a feel for the class. The main thing you will notice different between TC and offroad is that traction can change alot on the track versus TC which is mostly consistent, compared to what offroad offers as well as how setting up for jumps affects your drive line too. Also, when running 2wd, you will find that you have to be much better with the throttle control. This can really help improve your driving skills, or, drive you mad I found offroad much more challenging that touring car, which is why I still do it.

As for the power you plan to put in the vehicle, I would seriously go and see what is common in the pits as what you stated even for 4wd would be excessive in my opinion but who knows, maybe the track you are looking at can take that much power and let you put it all down. I would be highly suprised if it could, especially for 2wd. A good common brushless setup would be like a novak 7.5 or 6.5 , or if doing the sensorless thing, a 4600 or 5700 setup.

with all that said, buggy appears to be experiencing a resurgence thanks in part to lipo and brushless I believe at least. Hopefully it continues.

Good luck with whatever you decide.
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Old 01-27-2008, 11:29 AM   #9
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Pick the brand buggy that your most comfortable with, they are all good.

4wd has more steering, more traction, and is easier to drive. It is also more expensive and a little tighter with space under the body. It is slightly heavier but the additional traction makes up for the weight.

Personally, as much as I like the 4wd, I still perfer the 2wd buggy. It is a little more difficult to drive but for me thats fun. I like the way the 2wd jumps, and the inital cost is much less.

I have a B44 and a B3. I have broken much more parts on the b44 since I have owned it, than I have broken on the B3, and the B3 is old, tired, and worn.

They also have similar power plants. The B44 has a 10.5 novak and the B3 has a Komoto Dragon 19t, both with similar Mah lipo batteries. Geared similar the B3 is faster on the straights and the B44 is faster every where else.

They both have there pros and cons but it depends on what your looking to do. I would suggest looking at it like this. If your track is generally med to high traction save $100 or so and get the 2wd. If your track is low to med traction get the 4wd.

Still, before you buy either one see is someone at the track will let you try theres out. You would be suprised how many drivers will let you try there buggies, if you show a true interest in buying a buggy like the one there driving.
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Old 01-27-2008, 11:37 AM   #10
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The other thing, Batteries.

The B44 takes a saddle pack, so be prepaired if your going lipo, to buy an additional $100 battery.

Though I really and throughly enjoy the B44, after seing the overall cost at the end of the day, including the extra $100 for the buggy, the additional $100 for the saddle pack lipo, and the additional parts that I have bought to keep on hand to me it really wasnt worth the extra expence.

(extra parts because the buggy is new and the lhs dosnt stock them yet)

If I truely had to do it all over again, I would just stick with the 2wd buggy, and if I absolutly had to buy a 4wd, it would be one that took a stick battery pack over the saddle pack, just so I wouldnt have to specifically buy a battery for just one application.
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Old 01-27-2008, 11:53 AM   #11
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I think the ZX5 RTR is a very sick way to go.

I bough one for $260 Canadian and sold the electronics on e-bay for $65, so the chassis was only like $200! over 160 cheaper then the Kit version of the ZX5.

I threw in my GTB and Neo-1 4.5T motor, with stock oil and spring setup and it puts out a lap time that is only .6 sec off the TQs. (with the TQ driver at the wheel of course)

All that needs to be changed out of the box are the wheels as they dont come with foam inserts.

The ZX5 can take a pretty good beating, and spares are cheap.



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Old 01-27-2008, 11:54 AM   #12
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sweet ride..... is that a tamiya bodyshell?
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Old 01-27-2008, 11:56 AM   #13
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I would pick whatever is most popular at your local off-road track. 4wd is definitely more fun if you want to lay the power down. At some tracks, particularly those with a good amount of factory drivers, 2wd will tend to be somewhat popular. I think it is safe to say that if you can wheel it in 2wd mod buggy, then you can wheel it in pretty much any other class.
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Old 01-27-2008, 12:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderRobo View Post
I think the ZX5 RTR is a very sick way to go.

I bough one for $260 Canadian and sold the electronics on e-bay for $65, so the chassis was only like $200! over 160 cheaper then the Kit version of the ZX5.

I threw in my GTB and Neo-1 4.5T motor, with stock oil and spring setup and it puts out a lap time that is only .6 sec off the TQs. (with the TQ driver at the wheel of course)

All that needs to be changed out of the box are the wheels as they dont come with foam inserts.

The ZX5 can take a pretty good beating, and spares are cheap.
Do you know what exactly are the differences between the ZX5 and the ZX5 RTR version? Looks like shocks primarily, and maybe turnbuckles, also, no oneway setup?

I guess it depends what value you place on those parts that are not there.

the ZX5 for $200 has me intrigued. It would be cool is manufacturers could get wheelers down to the price of 2wd units, or maybe only like $25 premium over.

2wd buggy can be fun, I had more fun with my B4 than I ever did with the T4.
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Old 01-27-2008, 12:16 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Do you know what exactly are the differences between the ZX5 and the ZX5 RTR version? Looks like shocks primarily, and maybe turnbuckles, also, no oneway setup?

I guess it depends what value you place on those parts that are not there.

Yea, the RTR doesnt have the metal body shocks and no one way setup. Also, the ZX5 kit has the carbon composite parts, where the RTR has the plastic parts.

But it does come with some sort of a universal shaft on all fours compared to the dogbones in the kit.
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