mjk1210

iTrader: (9)

Dave, I used to run my 6.5 at 22/78. Too low (high of a final gear ratio) and the motor can get hot and it feels kind of jumpy and gets squirrely out of corners. The bigger pinion/smaller spur seem to smooth out the power band sometimes.

However, when you race in the Nats next week I recommend something like 6/145. That should be good for you and everyone else I'm competing against. Pass it on, please.

SpraydbySprague

iTrader: (64)

Lemme guess...64 pitch?

Stangas

iTrader: (11)

Just a rudimental gidday..

Just purchased a B44 for my very first off road racing season.

Not gonna ask any questions until after i have read all 5000 odd posts.

So, i hear i have purchased on of the most successful race cars built.. cant wait to race it.

My history is purely onroad racing, mainly 17.5 Stock with new timing speedy. But also dabbled in 10.5 (super stock), and successfully smashed nitro race cars.

Raced states for onroad stock, and getting fired up to race offroad states this October.

Anyway.. good to meet you all.. will ask questions soon enough

mjk1210

iTrader: (9)

Or smaller if you can find it. Maybe try Grainger. Also be sure to leave the gears nice and LOOSE. They should BARELY touch the tips of the teeth together if you're racing at the Nationals.

Dlewis4

iTrader: (148)

So did they add the new cam motor mount and the new shocks to the kit's as a rolling update?

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

What body is Maifield running?

http://www.rncfoto.com/RC-Racing/201...40684566_7SAja

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

That is the new "Punisher" body from JConcepts. It should be available shortly.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Thanks man! I am new to the B44 & stuff. Sounds like people are not too crazy about the "cab-forward" designs but would like to see how it drives before I pass judgment. I ran a B4 & T4 last winter and run electric 8th scale in the summer months. I want to try the electric 4wd 1/10th scale and do not know of a better vehicle than the B44 . . .

Do most guys start with the 2010 Team LiPo setup on AE's website?

TNS Racing

If you use just one limiter in the front shocks I think you'll gain alot more steering rather than loose alot of rut and jump predictability. I still use the plastic caster blocks because I havent had any problems with the screws loosening then stripping out the plastic but if your having that problem, the aluminum might be something to consider then

TNS Racing

I would suggest you go to your local track and ask some drivers what they're running. Bring a blank setup sheet and a pen so you can fill it in and wont forget any small details they give you

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, the problem is I know most (if not all of those guys)! But seriously, the fast guys run the Schumacher or the Tamiya cars. Some do run the B44 so I will ask but can just about assure you they are running the stock setup from the box. I am definitely looking to get an edge and start early here in the season.

I guess it would not hurt to build the kit ASAP and start with running the 2010 Team setup so I can ask informed questions . . .

mjk1210

iTrader: (9)

Yeah, just build it and use that to start, the kit setup with 30 wt oil in the rear instead of 25 wt will even get you off to a good start. The car is really good. Practically drives itself. Just yesterday I won the a-main and put the radio down after 3 1/2 minutes to use the bathroom. It was great! Seriously, it's a good car though. You can add a little weight or some limiters to the shocks and ball stud washers after you get a feel for a basic setup and drive a few laps. I think you'll like it.

mjk1210

iTrader: (9)

OK Here's something I've been wondering for a LONG time but since the car is so good I never really cared. In the 2wd cars the inside ball studs are on top, so adding a washer under them will lower the roll center adding a bit of traction to that end of the car in a turn. BUT on the B44 the ball studs are UNDER the top plate and the angle of the camber link is the opposite. Doesn't that completely change the camber effects of the link and the adding of a washer, or not? Anyone know? Or think they know?
Thanks

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Good to know! I just need to build and learn to drive the car before I get too excited about setups but just like to hear what is considered a nice, neutral place to start. Something easy to drive that provides a good foundation before I start tweaking a little bit . . .

What size LiPo's do most use? My brand of choice has a 4000 & 6000mAh version. Sounds like it is suggested to use the LiPo carriage AE sells for the B44. I am worried the 6000mAh might be a little big. Asides we do 6 or 7-min quals and mains. Most guys use an 8.5 motor at our track so I will need to get an idea of gearing soon as well.

mjk1210

iTrader: (9)

The 5100mah REEDY pack is really good one. I used long screws (3/4" I think) and put them through the thumbscrews and then threadlocked the screws into the hold down posts after putting them through the hold down straps. Get the lipo cradle for sure. I've seen Team drivers put a slit in it down the length in the center to allow it to flex.

With an 8.5 you should be geared around 22/78 or 23/78. Maybe higher since I was using 22/78 with a 6.5. That was indoor with cooler temps at the track surface.

Oh.and do yourself a HUGE favor, spend the $50 on the new motor mount before you build the car and put it in instead of the stock one. It uses a cam and will save you countless hours fiddling with cut-off hex wrenches and 10 degrees of turning the motor screws to get the mesh right. TRUST ME!