Hot Bodies - Ask Jesse Robbers
#61
The shock shafts, bottom and top shock caps, I don't remember if the spacers that go by or between the o-rings are the same or if they are different, shock collars, and o-ring for the top shock cap. So basically what you can use/share from the standard shocks are the springs, plastic shock bottom & the metal ball that goes into the shock bottom, o-rings, possibly the spacers between the o-rings, and shock oil if you really wanted to.
Last question, any updates on when these parts will be available in the US?
#62
I believe by the end of middle of February is when the new D4 WCE kit and parts should be here. I run the slipper to slip independently now, I haven't tried the slipper to slip f/r equally yet. The slipper doesn't work the same as a diff, sort of similiar, but not 100% the same. When one end of the slipper (side A) slips more than the opposite side of the slipper (Side B), Side B will not receive more drive or spin faster because of this like a diff would. Side B will still receive the amount of drive as being received from the motor, just Side A will slip and not transfer as much drive as it's receiving.
#63
of course!
#65
So the slipper has a thrust bearing so each side can slip indepently instead of having them keyed together like on the other cars?
#66
I believe by the end of middle of February is when the new D4 WCE kit and parts should be here. I run the slipper to slip independently now, I haven't tried the slipper to slip f/r equally yet. The slipper doesn't work the same as a diff, sort of similiar, but not 100% the same. When one end of the slipper (side A) slips more than the opposite side of the slipper (Side B), Side B will not receive more drive or spin faster because of this like a diff would. Side B will still receive the amount of drive as being received from the motor, just Side A will slip and not transfer as much drive as it's receiving.
This slipper is so much more solid than the original one. Hopefully now I can just "set it and forget it"... Like a ronco chicken rotisserie... lol
Thanks again for the help!
#67
Yeah loctite the short button head screws that goes through the bearing that is on the opposite side of the slipper as the spring is. Just don't put too much lostite on the screw b/c the loctite can get into the bearing. Also loctite the set screws in the outdrive. I think that's the only screws in the slipper, but I don't remember for sure??? You shouldn't need to loctite the slipper spring nut, if you do just use a little bit as the nut has a good bit of "stick" by itself.
#68
Yeah loctite the short button head screws that goes through the bearing that is on the opposite side of the slipper as the spring is. Just don't put too much lostite on the screw b/c the loctite can get into the bearing. Also loctite the set screws in the outdrive. I think that's the only screws in the slipper, but I don't remember for sure??? You shouldn't need to loctite the slipper spring nut, if you do just use a little bit as the nut has a good bit of "stick" by itself.
later
#69
I put the new slipper together and it's very smooth and so easy to set. It really takes the stess off the drive train now.
No matter what slipper pads, old or new front or back or how tight or loose the slipper is set it seems to take just a little more torque to make the front slip.... This is AWESOME especially coming out of corners... It seems to pull more and not hook. Easier to drive and I need all the help I can get! I better stock up on slipper pads... lol
How much slip should there be? I run on slippery tracks with losi studs. I assume it is ok to set the slipper pretty loose since it does act as a diff to??? I'm not talking ridiculously loose, but loose enough to slip on low traction tracks?
No matter what slipper pads, old or new front or back or how tight or loose the slipper is set it seems to take just a little more torque to make the front slip.... This is AWESOME especially coming out of corners... It seems to pull more and not hook. Easier to drive and I need all the help I can get! I better stock up on slipper pads... lol
How much slip should there be? I run on slippery tracks with losi studs. I assume it is ok to set the slipper pretty loose since it does act as a diff to??? I'm not talking ridiculously loose, but loose enough to slip on low traction tracks?
#71
yankee--
Michael--I don't have the D2 yet. I am leaving soon to head out West for some races and I will be staying out there for 5 weeks......so I will not be at Planet until something like late March after I get back home. Maybe then I'll have the car to run locally. For the front wheels, the B4 ones should fit fine and be the same.
Michael--I don't have the D2 yet. I am leaving soon to head out West for some races and I will be staying out there for 5 weeks......so I will not be at Planet until something like late March after I get back home. Maybe then I'll have the car to run locally. For the front wheels, the B4 ones should fit fine and be the same.
#72
Is there a chance we will see an ss version of the e-firestorm, or a hot bodies 2wd truck?
#73
I haven't heard of any talk of them doing a new 1/10 truck at this time.
#75
Hi jesse just need to pick your brain about the new slipper. I have just got the new slippper built it as per instructions and installed it. All is great but i dont know what mode the slipper is in, i.e independant slip or slip equally. It does not say anything about that in the instructions. I am assuming that if you want it to slip equally, do you have to use 2 pins to lock the hub to the shafts (they only supplied me with one pin though)? If this is the case does that mean the stock setup as per instruction is the independant mode.
Hope that makes sense to you! one more quick question what mode is everyone running there new slippers?
Hope that makes sense to you! one more quick question what mode is everyone running there new slippers?